Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

[Agent24]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

It appears the die soldering fails and carbonises--probably due to the removal of the Lead in the solder. RoHS Rubbish strikes again--Damnable Tree-hugging Greenies--Idiots the lot of 'em......

Pretty sure it was the stupid politicians that invented RoHS....

[Alastair E]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

Pretty sure it was the stupid politicians that invented RoHS....

Nah--Politicians--Have NO brain whatsoever, so They couldn't have thought it up!
--They fail at business--So become Politicians or go into Local Govt Councils.....

--Its the whole 'Green Agenda' driven from the likes of Agenda-21 (Google it)--Which was thought up by Narcissistic Greenies in the UN......

[mockingbird]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

This thread was long overdue, ever since the Russians figured out this out a few years ago.

Looking forward to trying this out myself, I have a set that needs it.

Is it worth changing the Korean caps on the sustain boards? Do they fail often?

[Alastair E]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

You'll need to change all the surface-mount caps around the DC/DC converter stage.
--This supplies the rails the IPM's use for switching the IGBT's If low can cause the IPM's to fail.

The big eleccys 220uF 250V are usually OK....

[mmartell]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

You'll need to change all the surface-mount caps around the DC/DC converter stage.
--This supplies the rails the IPM's use for switching the IGBT's If low can cause the IPM's to fail.

The big eleccys 220uF 250V are usually OK....

Hmm.. perhaps that's what killed my last attempt at replacing the ipm on a 60" LG. The ipm from this one has that black hardened stuff obscuring the components. Any advice getting that stuff off ?

[tom66]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

Potting compound. Good luck. Best bet is a dremel or other tool being careful to not damage any components.

[paulstef]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

This thread was long overdue, ever since the Russians figured out this out a few years ago.

Looking forward to trying this out myself, I have a set that needs it.

Is it worth changing the Korean caps on the sustain boards? Do they fail often?

I'm sure many other people already tried this before me (including Alastair).

I would personally only go through the hassle of removing caps if I'm sure they are damaged. Once you replaced the IGBTs you could just measure the halfbridges bus voltage close to the bridge. Without sufficient caps you will see increased voltage ripple, sometimes enough to kill IGBTs/MOSFETs if the peaks exceed maximum VCE/VDS ratings.

I'm no TV specialist but in motor drives or UPS inverters anti-parallel diodes and electrolytic caps (+ some smaller HF caps) usually take care of energy coming back from inductive loads. But then these are poly-phase-bridges which makes it much easier. Measuring right at the bridge should be enough to determine if something needs to be done about buffer caps.

Maybe one of the TV-gurus here could post a link or some info about the topology used on plasma TV sustain boards?

[paulstef]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

Actually, the pdf document in Alastairs signature explains it quite well. X and Z are interchangeable then?

[tom66]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

Yes, LG calls the X driver the Z-sustain, which actually makes the most sense. Calling it an X driver implies it drives the columns of the panel, which is not the case. Also known as the common electrode driver or sustain electrode driver.

[Alastair E]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

On the various 42 and 50 PC1D series Ive done, its just the small electrolytics on Y-SUS--Those horrible silver ally can surface-mount ones Ive found can be a bit iffy.
--Definitely worth changing those.

I use 100uF 50V to replace the 68uF and a 47uF 50V for the 33uF ones....

Not had a problem with the large Vs decoupling ones supplying the IPM's...

[paulstef]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

My confusion is, say, a little more basic. Here is the ER ipm from the ysus of a 50" LG. It is the J016E.

Just did it on a 50HP86 Toshiba with a J016E. I used IGBTS in a DPAK package.

Works and did cost me $4. :-)

[NorthernCrow]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

Sorry for resurrecting this old thread, but I am now too working on a "50 no-name Plasma set using LG innards (Legend brand TV model LEP5018, made in August 2006), with a bad YPPD-J016E module (the main YSUS board being 6870QYC004D).
The set has similar symptoms; whole screen flashing with a ticking noise from the module.

Upon desoldering and checking the module I found a shorted Q4, with Q2 testing OK. I've repaired the module using the FGD4536 IGBTs (replacing both Q2 & Q4), the diodes on the hybrid tested OK so I didn't touch them, I did replace the two 33uF 25V surface mount caps below the module with 47uF 25V ones as has been suggested here (didn't have 50V caps on hand, so used the same voltage as the originals).

What happened after all was complete?
The set came to life, and worked! ....for 10 minutes.
Having it sitting working with it's back towards me and the cover still off, I've heard some sounds from the electronics, and then the ticking sound again, looking at the screen showed me that it was once again behaving as before, flashing screen.
I've checked the temperature of the heatsink beforte the failure recurred and it was just warm to the touch, and I did use new thermal compound.

I've desoldered the module again, and found the FGD4536 in place of Q4 had shorted again, while the IGBT in place of Q2 still being OK, just like the old original die.

Looking at all the info found on this thread, Alastair E suggested that Y-SUS currents can peak at 300A for "50 sets, and the FGD4536 being rated at 220A, can this component be too weak for this module?
Has anyone successfully repaired the YPPD-J016E hybrid with the FGD4536 IGBTs with lasting results, and if so can anyone suggest what else need to be looked at aside from the hybrid module and the two caps underneath?
I did swiftly check most other 'lytics in the area with a capacitance meter and all were looking good...

In the mean time I've ordered a new hybrid, so while waiting for it I would appreciate any advice as to what I should do, as I'd be disappointed if I solder the new part in and it'll too fail right away.

Thanks in advance, I've just became a member here but was visiting the forum as a guest many times before.

Crow.

[NorthernCrow]

Re: Hybrid IC IPM YPPD-J017C J018C repair

Just a quick update to my last post if anyone else is wondering about it or would need info in the future;
The repair of the YPPD-J016E module with FGD4536 IGBTs did NOT work from me (as stated above the module failed within 10 minutes),
After ordering a Chinese replacement YPPD-J016E and installing it, the set has worked for around 10 hours of testing including turning it on and off and let it cool down and warm up again multiple times, it has not failed since and the set now works perfectly and has a beautiful picture once again.

By now the YPPD-J016E replacements can be purchased for about $10USD shipped from ebay, so just save yourself the time and hassle and replace the module.
FYI the replacement modules look different from the originals, the new ones are completely encapsulated (no silicone or potting compound) on the pin side, and have an aluminum plate for heat dissipation on their back (like the originals).