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Samsung UE46ES8000 Blown fuse but no other signs of short

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    #21
    Ok i will hopefully have the diodes/cap/IC this week and will install all of them together.

    I'm using a 60w light bulb at the moment. If everything is ok when they are installed, should I be able to measure output voltages on the board with the light bulb still in series?

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      #22
      Yes, the lamp must glow 1 sec. then off

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        #23
        The lamp lets you know if theres still a problem, if it lights bright and stays lit, dont bother trying tv as normal, there will still be a problem that will most likely damage components if not addressed and fixed.

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          #24
          Some more updates. When i went to replace the DS809 diode i found that actually it wasnt shorted after I removed it. There seems to be a 0ohm resistor in parallel so that must be ok but I replaced it anyway. I replaced the ICS801S and the 1KV cap. Now when I turn on with lamp, for the first time I hear the relay click! The lamp flicker a bit and then stays on. The output of 5V standby and 5V is present on multimeter and stable. Is it possible that the light bulb is staying bright but nothing is actually wrong now?

          I have also put thermal camera over the board while its on and there is no heat appearing anywhere to indicate anything is short.
          Last edited by jesterace; 09-22-2024, 03:43 AM. Reason: pSE3Hx

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            #25
            Sorry, i forgot to say that the board must be dummy loaded, for the standby section i would load around 0,5A, (5v/0,5=10ohm/2,5W, but to semplify get a 5W one), this is to make the lamp not flicker, if only standby is working 40W is enough, if board full on then load A5V with 1A, then 12v with a small car headlight lamp, (normal drive light, not long distance light)

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              #26
              Good news i put the board in the TV and screen lights up I am just going to see if it all works!

              Tv is currently fully working at the moment. After doing some reading online it seems that devices with active pfc can sometimes cause high current draw using the light bulb idea (so it always lights brightly in my case), but it was certainly helpful in protecting everything. So for anyone new like me, be aware that the light bulb may not always mean there's a short remaining that you've missed - at least in my case.

              I did try higher wattage bulbs but it always lit brightly.

              Maybe its because there wasn't a load though like Davi.p said. I'm just pleased its working.

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                #27
                using bulb are old Fashion used by CRT TV to know if the high voltage coil work...LCD PSU you have Fuses.. so why i do need a ware on short?

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                  #28
                  Originally posted by jesterace View Post
                  Good news i put the board in the TV and screen lights up I am just going to see if it all works!

                  Tv is currently fully working at the moment. After doing some reading online it seems that devices with active pfc can sometimes cause high current draw using the light bulb idea (so it always lights brightly in my case), but it was certainly helpful in protecting everything. So for anyone new like me, be aware that the light bulb may not always mean there's a short remaining that you've missed - at least in my case.

                  I did try higher wattage bulbs but it always lit brightly.

                  Maybe its because there wasn't a load though like Davi.p said. I'm just pleased its working.
                  Indeed, you did your research, here's another example with a power supply: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syQaSfhb604

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                    #29
                    Barring those situations, as you mentioned it still does it's PRIMARY job, limiting current and not blowing up components. See I don't want to even blow up a fuse, when it's this easy to avoid.

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                      #30
                      Just check online to see the MULTITUDE of people using the db testers for BOTH video and audio applications.

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