For aquariums and outdoor lighting and such ? Not likely.
First you have to make sure the current draw and voltage requirements are same for the output of your power supply. Then there are space requirements that can not be exceeded. Then there are possible colour temp issues and/or possible heat related problems.
I would think there are a whole host of things needing to be overcome to customize the backlight system.
i just read the whole post
so was the issue one problem after the other
or the backlight problem all along
ive got a ua40d5500 doing the same thing
b5v turning off and on
Well I had an issue where an led actually fell off the strip. Put it back on and tv worked for a few minutes and went back out. Gonna take it back apart and see what I can do. Is there a trick to soldering these. They are kind of difficult
I have a hot air soldering station. But they are tricky to solder. It has the 4 prongs on end of led. IN the middle of led, does that have to be soldered also?
Difficulty with matching colour balance and brightness, along with the number of LEDs and rated current. If it did work, the picture would probably look off in one corner...
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Well lucky me. I found another tv same model but guy is 2 hours away. Looks like I'm going on a road trip. Lol. For 50 bucks has cracked screen but still works
Well I finally gave up on the set. The LED stip had 19 bad leds. I replaced 8 of them but the board was looking bad from removing the LEDs. It just took so much heat to remove the old LEDs that the traces that jumper the series LEDs come off and using wire wrap jumpers was not pretty. The ciruit was unreliable as it was but with all the jumpers and heat to rmove the LEDs thermal glue was too hard on the strip. With that much work and issues of unreliability I called it quits. If I ever get another one of the sets in and the problem is not the LEDs then I can get a current measurement to figure resistance of the proper load. The DigiKey leds STW8Q14BE-U0U7-BA woroked but were not as bright as the original using meter diode test.
Sorry to hear that. I wouldn't necessarily part it out yet, just keep an eye for a drop-in replacement strip. Or like in my case any from the same series (and same size) can be used with a little rewiring - no need to touch the leds if they are good.
To OP, Hi listen maybe you an help me out I have a 46d7000 with the exact same problem as yours the main psu clicks on and off. At first I thougt it could be a bad psu so I ordered a new replacement but keeps on doing the same thing.
- If I unplug PSU from the mainboard the clicking stops.
- If I unplug the PSU from mainboard backlights are not coming on.
- I even teared down the screen completely and seen the led stripes all light up I don't see any burnt one
- So I jumpered A5v with pwm1 pwm2 pwm3 and pwm4 and all the led stripes turn on from top to bottom.
- Measured all voltages and they seem fine B5v, Vamp and so on. By the way do you know what OD_LEVEL and OD_ON_OFF are?
- If I leave psu plugged to main , and measure the a5v test pad underneath when it clicks A5v goes 0 to 5 , and 5 to 0 while clicking
My question is , did you made the same test as me jumpering A5v with pwm1 ? to see if the led strips lit ? from what I can see all the led strips turn on fine.. but could they be bad ?
I'm suspecting the eeprom got corrupted but I already tried to reset it bridging SDA line to ground and SDA to VCC. Nothing. I'm going to desolder the eeprom and solder a blank one. Some ppl on samytogo forums said the SoC regenerates all the data. But I'm suspecting my set got bad with power spikes leading to something internally , like the unit doesn't turn on at all. but seems like a watchdog timer or somehing it's cycling. I could be wrong.
Comment