LG OLED55A1PUA

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  • Davi.p
    replied
    Nothing. 2 flat braingraphs, cannot continue with them.. hope good luck to the OP..

    Leave a comment:


  • repair-it
    replied
    Originally posted by Diah

    by removing the second LVDS as i mentioned before and you have the TV power on and remain on.... mean we have issue on T-CON or Panel... because this disconnected LVDS transport the SOS signal from T-CON firmware to the MICOM on the Mainboards which it act on this SOS and order the PSU to turn off.

    but you said the Optic didn't lit red--- mean the MB went to sleep mode which we can wake it up by USB stic with Movie on it... or air mouse / USB mouse..... or also LG service menu. to send Power Only
    This is my first time working on an OLED TV so it is a learning experience for me. I connected USB mouse, monitored T-Con voltage when connecting power, then powered up. It remained @ 12v until it went into sleep mode. Mouse had no effect after in sleep mode. LVDS lower cable disconnected entire time, no optical LED the entire time. I ordered a Service Remote, but unfamiliar with how it 'could' help. The TV is only 2 years old.

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  • Diah
    replied
    Originally posted by Davi.p
    12VM cannot rise over, so where is the damage? 7v or 12v the result is the same 4,7v , the Iz is same far far over 100/200mA.. am i stupid?
    yes you are.... do it on your own 1400 $ TV .... don't ask users to harm their set.

    Leave a comment:


  • Davi.p
    replied
    12VM cannot rise over, so where is the damage? 7v or 12v the result is the same 4,7v , the Iz is same far far over 100/200mA.. am i stupid?

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    Originally posted by nomoresonys
    No it's not a childs game, I just pointed out pees shortcomings and he didn't like it.
    of sure its not about you.

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    Originally posted by Davi.p
    So what is 400mA? Let's suppose 100mA the Iz-max, Rs=(Vout-Vz )/Iz; Iz=(Vout-Vz)/Rs=(12-4,7)/10k=7,3/10k=93uA... so where is the danger? You escape?
    are you dum or stupid.... one like you will never admit his wrong.... Vs in this OLED set are changeable... so end Value of R will be changeable too..... this why never never use this way to test PSU. if you have stable V in then will be fine after calculation.

    Leave a comment:


  • Davi.p
    replied
    So what is 400mA? Let's suppose 100mA the Iz-max, Rs=(Vout-Vz )/Iz; Iz=(Vout-Vz)/Rs=(12-4,7)/10k=7,3/10k=93uA... so where is the danger? You escape?

    Leave a comment:


  • nomoresonys
    replied
    No it's not a childs game, I just pointed out pees shortcomings and he didn't like it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    Originally posted by repair-it
    Did as you suggested, turned set on, monitored voltages at T-CON & OLED connections on PSU for aprox 5 minutes, voltages held, but no optical(red) visible. Does this indicate a bad main board or could it be a T-Con issue?
    by removing the second LVDS as i mentioned before and you have the TV power on and remain on.... mean we have issue on T-CON or Panel... because this disconnected LVDS transport the SOS signal from T-CON firmware to the MICOM on the Mainboards which it act on this SOS and order the PSU to turn off.

    but you said the Optic didn't lit red--- mean the MB went to sleep mode which we can wake it up by USB stic with Movie on it... or air mouse / USB mouse..... or also LG service menu. to send Power Only
    sorry i will not response any more on this Topic... as it seem again child game start over here. good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    Originally posted by Davi.p
    And so what? why don't you put your calculation here? Are you able? Suggested diode holds around 200mA..
    ..

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  • nomoresonys
    replied
    davi pee, fixing electronics is like a doctors Hippocratic oath...FIRST DO NO HARM, you need to keep your GUESSING and EXPERIMENTS confined to your location, this is a repair forum, people are trying to fix things, NOT make them worse.

    Leave a comment:


  • Davi.p
    replied
    never seen.you providing a solution here, maybe i've been unlucky and i don't have seen it? i don't think..

    anyway, chats are enough, demontrate post 17 is wrong and i'll stay shut and quit the discussion, i suppose you never tested it before posting your sentences, otherwise stop cheating this thread..
    Last edited by Davi.p; 01-14-2024, 07:03 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nomoresonys
    replied
    Originally posted by Davi.p
    I ask the staff on the knees, is it not possible to send away this element, Nomoresonys? It is ten years or more he is 24h/24 here to mislead solutions with his same very low knowledge, and also criticize others, he is the worst element of this wonderful site, and the most present!

    PS: the solution in my post #17 is SIMPLE, WORKING, TESTED..

    PPS: for the zener, can be used a 1n4732= 4,7v
    This from the pu nk who wrote in a post that he wished that I would get covid 19 and die, real nice guy. LOOK here you have been trying to get people to ruin their tvs with your little "experiments" for as long as I have been here, your the RUDEST MOST OBNOXIOUS individual there ever was, you have VERY limited knowledge. When a real tech like Diah points out your mistakes that can ruin a tv, you get all defensive and start insulting everyone, you need to quit embarrassing yourself with this behavior. This putz had the same thing to say to Budm when he pointed out davi pees harmful "experiments" This guy IS a virus.

    Leave a comment:


  • Davi.p
    replied
    Can you post a very (i mean VERY!) bright picture of main.board without heat sink?

    Further.. it's time for the screen test, search recent oled discussions on how to..
    Last edited by Davi.p; 01-14-2024, 04:07 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Davi.p
    replied
    And so what? why don't you put your calculation here? Are you able? Suggested diode holds around 200mA..

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    Originally posted by repair-it
    Did as you suggested, turned set on, monitored voltages at T-CON & OLED connections on PSU for aprox 5 minutes, voltages held, but no optical(red) visible. Does this indicate a bad main board or could it be a T-Con issue?
    if you don't have lg service remote... buy one

    Leave a comment:


  • repair-it
    replied
    Did as you suggested, turned set on, monitored voltages at T-CON & OLED connections on PSU for aprox 5 minutes, voltages held, but no optical(red) visible. Does this indicate a bad main board or could it be a T-Con issue?

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    Originally posted by repair-it
    ok, to clear up any misunderstanding this is where I am at right now, I did not remove power supply board but decided to give this a go one more time. I plugged the main board back into the power supply board and now all voltages ARE present 🙄as listed, including T-CON & OLED on power supply board. I have NOT reconnected the T-CON or the OLED yet.

    If there is an issue with either one (will do one at a time) What should be monitored when doing this? I would presume the corresponding connector for supply voltage of each on the power supply board?🤔 If one or the other is 'bad' what should happen to indicate that?


    Update - I left power on & just went back to check voltages on the OLED & T-CON connectors 10 mins later and both are now at 0V. Does this TV go into a sleep mode automatically?
    i would suggust dont play with power boards at all as i i think its fine.
    put every things ( all socket in place..... only disconnect the second LVDS between the MB and T-CON... its the down side when you look on the t.con turn on... give time and tell if yours audio optic port lit red

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    again wrong... please don't write some things wrong harm user TVs.
    when you add R to zener diode it calculated as following R= source V - Zener limited V output( divided on / currents ..
    you have in this case 7-8V and the output let say 4V. ... so you will calculated the R... but in this case after PSU turn on the 7.8V will go high to 12V... so yours first calculation will be wrong . this harm the rails. this why stepdowner or regulator in this case used.. as it will always have same out put even the input goes high... hope you learned some things now.

    zener circuit can used only at stable known VDC source... not for changeable source. big PUNKT
    Last edited by Diah; 01-13-2024, 03:49 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • repair-it
    replied
    ok, to clear up any misunderstanding this is where I am at right now, I did not remove power supply board but decided to give this a go one more time. I plugged the main board back into the power supply board and now all voltages ARE present 🙄as listed, including T-CON & OLED on power supply board. I have NOT reconnected the T-CON or the OLED yet.

    If there is an issue with either one (will do one at a time) What should be monitored when doing this? I would presume the corresponding connector for supply voltage of each on the power supply board?🤔 If one or the other is 'bad' what should happen to indicate that?


    Update - I left power on & just went back to check voltages on the OLED & T-CON connectors 10 mins later and both are now at 0V. Does this TV go into a sleep mode automatically?
    Last edited by repair-it; 01-13-2024, 03:03 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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