I think I fixed my Samsung LN2353H. Anything else I should check?

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  • mdr
    Member
    • Oct 2013
    • 11
    • USA

    #1

    I think I fixed my Samsung LN2353H. Anything else I should check?

    Hi all. First of all, thanks for this awesome resource. It's a true asset to our internet community.

    I have a 23" Samsung LN2353H (supply BN44-00158A) that died one night and would not turn back on. I tried it next day, and it turned on...but only stayed on for a little bit and after that, would only have the blue stby light flash momentarily after plugging in...and do that in a loop every few seconds. Would not power on. I could also hear a high pitch whine coming from the power supply board after the standby light in front flashed back off.

    After much digging around the net, I ended up here where I was able to find a schematic and lots of great info.

    Looking at the board, I was drawn to RM814, which had the discolored glue that looked like it had gotten a little cooked (I've read the glue can get conductive when old?). RM801 fusible resistor was blown w/ burn mark on side. Started testing what components I could on the board and found issues with:

    RM801 (.22 Ohm 1W Fusible resistor) open
    RM814 (3.3K resistor) bad - showing flucting resistance in MOhm range (tested out of board)
    DM804 (D1NS4 Diode) shorted (tested out of the board)
    ICM801S (F9222L IC) had both Q1 and Q2 source-drain shorts (Pins 4, 19, & 23, I believe it was...again, tested out of the board)

    Couldn't really find anything else obviously bad, but have only ability to test basic components using DMM...nothing to test cap's ESR or anything.

    After a couple purchases on Ebay (and some scavenging of an old tube TV), I was able to solder in the 4 replacement parts. Holding breath and plugging in....it powered up! I kept it on for a day or so and have powered off / on several times.

    Now...the big question...I'm wondering if I've addressed the root of the issue, or just repaired the casualties from the real culprit and could have similar failure soon. Anything else I should look at here before I declare victory?

    Thanks!
    Mike
    Last edited by mdr; 10-14-2013, 11:18 PM. Reason: typo
  • mdr
    Member
    • Oct 2013
    • 11
    • USA

    #2
    Re: I think I fixed my Samsung LN2353H. Anything else I should check?

    Never did get a reply to this post, but on the off chance this ever helps anyone out there, TV is working perfectly still!

    Comment

    • JonathanW
      New Member
      • Jan 2015
      • 2
      • United Kingdom

      #3
      Re: I think I fixed my Samsung LN2353H. Anything else I should check?

      Just to add to the assistance already provided on the forum about these Samsung power boards, I have just replaced the exact same 4 components listed above on a BN44-00158A power board and all is working well again.

      All 4 components displayed exactly the same characteristics noted by Mike.

      Thanks to all.

      Jonathan

      Comment

      • tibimakai
        Badcaps Legend
        • Jan 2012
        • 3680
        • USA

        #4
        Re: I think I fixed my Samsung LN2353H. Anything else I should check?

        I have actually just pulled out this TV a couple of days ago and started to work on it.
        Found that the Schottky diode showed shorted in circuit and I have managed to brake it while trying to put it back(it is in parallel with a resistor, that is why shows short). That was weird. Why it would brake in two, when trying to bend the legs. I have purchased a different 1N5819 version. Hopefully it will work.
        I have to familiarize myself again, with this circuit. I know, that I have the 385V.
        This is the LN-T2353H right?
        Last edited by tibimakai; 08-29-2015, 02:02 PM.

        Comment

        • tibimakai
          Badcaps Legend
          • Jan 2012
          • 3680
          • USA

          #5
          Re: I think I fixed my Samsung LN2353H. Anything else I should check?

          How should I measure the F9222L for short, in circuit? From pin #8?

          Comment

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