The only difference is the LCD panel is driven twice as fast (120Hz drive) which 95% of panels support already in the form of 120Hz motion enhancement. They also have an IR beam to sync the glasses. Total additional cost maybe $5.00.
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This Sony has some kind of camera unit built into it also, at the bottom.
What is that for?
In the specs, there is nothing mentioned about that camera.
Possibly the "room leave" camera they had going a few years ago. It can turn the panel off when you leave the room, but keeps the sound going, to save energy. The camera detects your presence by looking at your eyes.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
I can't believe that I have this TV and I haven't even looked at yet.
I still have the Sony 46EX400 and the Samsung 46A650 to repair first. We had some really hot temperatures around here and I can't work in the garage.
I'm also finishing up an i5 Acer laptop. Still have to figure out a Kenwood navigation unit's DVD drive if it needs any calibration if it's replaced with a new unit.
If it's too hot to work in a garage, it's hot enough to be potentially damaging to LCD panels. Ambient above 60C can cause some problems like mura from distortion of the backlight films.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
I had another thread for the amplifier component of a mini system that had some issues. those are resolved via replacement of the 4 power supply filter caps.
The pre-amplifier of this system also has a problem. It outputs a powerful ~120hz hum. The amplifier has a spectrum analyzer with a 125 hz position and that's where it lights up. On the pre-amp is an equalizer. If I move that slider or one on either side up the spectrum analuzer at 125hz will just about peg at the top and this is audible through the speakers.
This system uses a proprietary interconnect cable....
I have been looking at some battery packs that they recently brought in and I was debating whether to buy them because of cost of the shipping especially one of the two battery packs that I had bought from this sale that they have going on right now
I made a post over on reddit about how my windows laptop only works when plugged in now, because I dropped a screw driver on the connector pins where the laptop battery plugs into, causing sparks. I put a brand new battery in but still the same result, so something on the board obviously got fried (however, there's no visible burn marks, so no clue what was affected). I honestly wouldn't care, but my laptop is power throttling even with the internal battery unplugged (turns out this is a common problem on laptops with poor batteries or missing batteries). The GPU won't go above 40W when the TDP...
Anyway, I got an AudioInjector "sound card" for the regular RPi at a fire sale, and I think I got burned. I tried it on my RPi Zero W and it wouldn't boot with it installed. Seems to bootloop and my serial adapter goes nuts with the hat as the pins are way too thin to be standard IDC connector pins.
Should these hats work on a Zero W? Would there need to be any mods to get it to work? Too bad it's not the version specifically for the Zero but wondering what the differences could be...
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