Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
After spending more time in trying to solve this backlight issue without sucess, I decided to take a chance and purchase another PSU from LCD TV Parts at a cost of £25.00 (free shipping) Since replacing the PSU on Friday morning, the TV has been working 100%
It would have been nice to have found the fault on the PSU then just replace it. Just seems I've not gained any experience in just changing a PSU.
Thanks again everyone for your help.
Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Collapse
X
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Nothing touching other lead? Maybe cold joint under this IC and pressing it fixes it temporarily.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
I'm not to sure if it is the transformer! There is a Programmable Shunt Regulator - KA431AZ (ICP802) next to the transformer (TI801S). At first glance I thought is was a transistor of some kind so I started to probe it with my DVOM set on AC. When I touched the first pin on the left, the backlights turned on and my DVOM read 127.6VAC. Removed the red probe and the backlights stayed on for around 15s. Tried various times and same thing happens every time. I now have the wiring diagram and trying to figure out how the backlights come on using my DVOM?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Cant find any info on that transformer tho you can buy one in Oz for 4$ish- perhaps
test the voltage on the primary side but have meter on 600v or higher if you have it.
Perhaps see if you can follow where that pin 23 invonoff goes to? - on both boards.
Could of course still be a duff cap somewhere -they look to be mainly Sam Young?
@Tom66 If the lower voltages "wobbled" might it be enough to switch on a protection
that closed the lamps downLeave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Retouch all joints on power components. Anywhere that looks like it gets hot or gets hot when running (test with TV off of course!)Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Checked the board for cold solder joints, tried the hairdryer trick, don't have an freeze spray or compressed air.
What kind of coil readings would I expect to find on T1801S? The number on it is QGAH02092 SW
SW-02B 09 OSC.
I have 002.2R across the two upper pins which I believe to be the secondary windings (correct me if I'm wrong) and 000.9R on the two lower pins.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
That is an important observation - possible sign of cold joint as Tom says.
Tomorrow perhaps try the hairdryer and or freeze spray/compressed air test.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Cold solder joint? Retouch all joints on the board that look suspect.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
The more times I turn on this TV, the backlights will fail to come and I have to leave it for some considerable time to re-test. I may leave it overnight and try again in the morning.
Had a quick look at retiredcaps guide, lot of reading to catch up with.
Thanks,
Later.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
I like it! What we are trying to do is to get one lamp to light/flash at a time
( It is often difficult to tell if there is a fault when they all flash on at once )so using your wires can you light each bulb in turn. I am not sure if there are going to be 8 bulbs or 4 "U" bulbs. If you can do that, as I said before try and observe the "colour " of the flash - pinkish suggests a bulb is failing.
As you say I know it doesnt really seem necessary as the set is know to work then stop, but it is a matter of eliminating as many known reasons for 2 seconds to black as possible and these are normally the easy tests!!
I dont recall, and it is easier for me just to ask than skim back through but have you read this guide by retiredcaps - it will help if it comes down to component testing - start at post 19 - its not as long as it looks.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419Last edited by selldoor; 08-18-2012, 10:41 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
I'll check that fuse shortly.
Not sure how well you can see the photo but, the PSU has now parted company with the backlight connector. I've inserted 8 spade connectors into the black vertical connector which hold the tubes. On each one of these connectors I have a wire link which enables me to join the PSU to the black connector in any combination. So far I've tried all kinds of combinations but the backlight has always turned off after a few seconds.
The weird thing with this TV is, it can work for days and then all of a sudden, the backlights fail?Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Yes - I see that now thanks - please see late edit post 21 re tcon fuseLeave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
You beat me to it!
I tried lifting the black connector but, only comes up a small amount because the tubes are holding on to it from inside the panel.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
The 8 flat tabs on the PSU slot into the 8 square holes on the long black vertical connector.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
No I dont think there are - makes sense now see attached internet picture of
this board.
EDIT just as an afterthought there is a white fuse on the Tcon have you tested it.
cant see it affecting the BL problem but see a fuse and test it is what I think.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Last edited by selldoor; 08-18-2012, 09:01 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
1 First voltage is ok - second may be a bit on the low side.Fuse o.k. 000.2R. Voltage across big cap when just plugged in is 326.2V. Switch on TV, voltage rises to 344.2V.
I've tried lifting the long black connector that fits onto the lamps inside the panel but have a feeling they might break if I'm unable to hold them. Hope this makes sense?
2 Probably does make sense - but doesnt mean anything to me - perhaps Tom or the others have seen something similar.
Not sure where to go next are there no wires between the power/inverter board and the lamps, that you can unplug?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
Fuse o.k. 000.2R. Voltage across big cap when just plugged in is 326.2V. Switch on TV, voltage rises to 344.2V.
I've tried lifting the long black connector that fits onto the lamps inside the panel but have a feeling they might break if I'm unable to hold them. Hope this makes sense?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
If you can get to the lamp connectors you can do the one at a time flash for each bulb. Disconnect all but one and see if it flashes and try and guage if they all flash the same brightness and colour.
Can you also check the fuse next to the Big Cap and the voltage across the Big cap when it is just plugged in and when you have pressed the power button
High voltages for these tests when doing the lamps un plug from mains and let it stand for 5 minutes between each test. 600-800Vac
Big Cap test could be 400VDCLeave a comment:
-
Re: Samsung-LE32B530P7W-Intermittant Back Light
I don't have any spare ccfl bulbs. I do have another Sammy but can't use it for spares as I've just repaired it.Leave a comment:
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by MOSSEPHi
Im hoping someone might be able to give me some idea of what may be wrong with my Monitor Audio RSW12 Sub.
Ive owned it since new in around 2002, so would really like to keep it running if I can, it was the first ‘decent' bit of audio equipment I ever purchased and is a little sentimental.
The issue I had was that it would power up with the red light, but sometimes the green light would not come on and I would get no bass from it. If the green light did come on though, I would get sound out of it.
I have already tried replacing all of the...-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
-
-
by droneratHi Guys,
This forum has been in great help to me, but I stumbled upon a strange problem with a salvaged Samsung TV that I am banging my head to troubleshoot.
PSU: L48S6 FHS BN44-00807D
T-Con: BN95-01937A
Panel: CY-GJ048HGLVLH
MB: NA (Currently as the TV is assembled and forgot to take picture)
As I said earlier I have some issues with the TV I got from a friend of mine. The TV had no picture, but sound, back light and everything else was working fine.
It was sent to an authorized service for repairs and returned with the... -
by rp93I am trying to troubleshoot my 2018 Mac Mini. It all of a sudden would not respond/wake up. So i turned it off and turned it back on. When I power it up, the fan blasts hard for a second, then shuts off, power light may go off, then back on, sometimes blasting the fan again. It does this a few times then eventually(sometimes) the power light stays on and the fan runs at a normal speed, but with no HDMI/display. Nothing ever shows up on the display.(no sound, no chime, checked wifi router to see if it trys to connect, which it does not)
I have the Mac Mini completely disassembled... -
by koby058Hi people!!
The owner said it showed bad picture once in a while (attached)
I see that there is back light but no picture.
I want to ask if it is possible to disable the NVIDIA GPU and use the intel one?
Also attached schematic and BDV
LINK to schematic & boardview - https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...ll-vostro-5590... -
by kcaHello all ~
I’m working on this Samsung 60” LED and purchased a new main board a couple of days ago that did not fix the 5 blink issue. The original main board’s HDMI ports (all 4 of them) failed to work and no amount of reflow remedied that.
This 5 red light blink code on the front panel LED is followed (about 15-20 seconds afterward) by an automatic reboot, and results in 5 more red light blinks. Then the entire cycle repeats itself indefinitely.
No picture. No sound.
I tested all the voltages coming out of the power supply... - Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: