Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Funny how this TV keeps popping up on the internet with the same problems over and over. I have the exact same one and now I am having the "no picture/no sound" problem. The light on the front stays on and the backlights come on. I've replaced the caps on the PSU, and mainboard. Still nothing.
There's not much more I can add to the troubleshooting here that hasn't already been said (10 pages and counting) although I can note one thing...This TV runs extremely hot. Compared to every other LCD that I've come in contact with, this thing blazes.
T-con board maybe?
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Philips 42PFL5432D/37
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I recently came across this website after my Philips TV had the same symptoms( same model as well). I am overwhelmed with the content of this post. It has been great reading these posts. From my learnings here I have managed to diagnose my issue and i ordered my caps (should be here Monday). Having zero experience with anything like this, I went to the Radio Shack and bought my soldering supplies. I managed to remove all bad caps and am anxiously awaiting the new ones. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this and I am looking forward to many more posts!
Aaron
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Okay, I am driving from OK to IN, my mother has had a stroke. I will get back on this as soon as I return. Thank you so much for all your help.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Originally posted by PoteauPets View PostYes, that is CN902, if you put one tester on the red, and then the other on each of the white ones, you get 10 tests. At least that is what I come up with, unless I'm doing it wrong.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Originally posted by retiredcaps View PostIs this CN902? I count 11 pins on CN902. This is the connector by the green Lelon cap. It has one red and 10 white.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Originally posted by PoteauPets View PostTesting in progress:
With tv powered off this morning: (just for a starting ref)
1=0
2=12.10
3=0
4=12.1
5=.4
6=0
7=0
8=0
9=0
10=0
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Testing in progress:
With tv powered off this morning: (just for a starting ref)
1=0
2=12.10
3=0
4=12.1
5=.4
6=0
7=0
8=0
9=0
10=0
With tv turned on:
1=0
2=12.31
3=12.3
4=21.4
5=21.1
6=24.4
7=24.4
8=24.4
9=21.6
10=24.4
When tv lost picture
1=0
2=12.06
3=12.1
4=.4
5=0
6=0
7=0
8=0
9=0
10=0
BTW, I have one 47uf35v cap here. Part # P11232-ND
I have other caps, but not in the 47.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Originally posted by PoteauPets View PostJust found this post in my local area. Wondering if this would be fixable or if I could use it for parts to fix mine. What do you guys think? I just sent her a message to see what her bottom dollar is. Here is her actual picture and description.
42' Phillips Flat Screen w/Ambulight for sale. Also comes with the remote.
It has a black strip down the side of the screen other than that it works fine. My son uses it to play the 360 & watch movies on. Make me an offer.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
6) I see another Lelon cap C958 (another 47uF 25V). You might as well replace that as well and whatever else is still an original cap.
7) If changing these two Lelon cap's doesn't help, there is more to troubleshoot.Last edited by retiredcaps; 02-12-2012, 12:27 AM.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
1) Okay, I'm off to bed soon, but if the CN902 connector shows a missing 12V when the TV goes off, then the prime suspect is that green Lelon cap still remaining.
2) I snipped out the schematic that shows the board. C955 is the new Panasonic cap. C934 is the 47uF 25V cap just before the 12V test point.
3) The little caps like C934 usually never bloat when they are bad or going bad. If this cap is bad, the 12V disappears and so does the voltage on the t-con. That is why I had you confirm VIN=12.00 when TV is working and VIN=0.45 when picture disappears in post #178.
4) If you don't have a 47uF 25V spare, you can use 47uF 50V instead. If you have to order, get this
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...2923-ND/762833
5) So if I'm correct, the t-con is fine under heat and it is C934 that dies under hot conditions. This is opposite of what I originally thought, but once I saw the schematic I think this scenario is more likely given the Lelon cap. It will be proven once you do test #1.Last edited by retiredcaps; 02-12-2012, 12:05 AM.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
1) Okay, on CN902 (power board), there is one red wire and a lot of white. Make red wire pin 1 and number the rest in order. It looks like pins 3 and 4 are 12V.
2) Again, with the TV working, measure all the DC voltages (multimeter set on 20V DC). For the 24V pins, you will need to set it to 200V DC otherwise you will get a "1" on the left hand side. For the other voltages, set it to 20V DC.
3) Measure them again when the TV picture goes out.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Originally posted by PoteauPets View PostAnd yes, when it kicks off, we still have sound and back lights.
Tested with TV Powered On, Meter set @ DcV -20
VIN=12.00
Tested when the TV Shut off, Meter set @ DcV -20
VIN=.45Last edited by retiredcaps; 02-11-2012, 11:10 PM.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Just found this post in my local area. Wondering if this would be fixable or if I could use it for parts to fix mine. What do you guys think? I just sent her a message to see what her bottom dollar is. Here is her actual picture and description.
42' Phillips Flat Screen w/Ambulight for sale. Also comes with the remote.
It has a black strip down the side of the screen other than that it works fine. My son uses it to play the 360 & watch movies on. Make me an offer.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Close up of the area in red per your request. And yes, when it kicks off, we still have sound and back lights.
What do I set the meter to to perform the above mentioned test?
Tested with TV Powered On, Meter set @ DcV -20
GND=0
SDA=3.28
VIN=12.00
SCL=3.28
TSTPGM=.01
Tested when the TV Shut off, Meter set @ DcV -20
GND=.01
SDA=.01
VIN=.45
SCL=0
TSTPGM=0
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Originally posted by PoteauPets View PostReadings with TV ON
ANE 8815 AECS 250 0719
Pin 1=2.49v
Pin 2=0
Pin 3=3.27v
6343 74J3Z
Pin 1=0
Pin 2=3.69v
Pin 3=2.81v
3) Let's try another set of measurements.
Circled in red are the t-con voltage rails. The red multimeter probe should fit into each of one of those small test points. Your black probe goes on a t-con board ground screw.
4) List each legend and its value when the TV is working and not. Also please post a close up photo of just the section in red.
Readings when the TV kicks off=0 across the board.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The white label info is as follows:
ADPF 24300R1P
P4P77 773911322
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Here are the latest pictures. By the way, Thank you all for your help !!!!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
That indicates that something is cutting power to the boards - suspicions rest on the power supply - as the 24V is shutting off as well.
If the power LED stays ON during the failure, the standby voltage is -probably- fine, but we must check that it is at 5V and not at a voltage which is too low.
Need a closer pic of this area. If there are any labels next to the connector, report them.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Readings with TV ON
ANE 8815 AECS 250 0719
Pin 1=2.49v
Pin 2=0
Pin 3=3.27v
6343 74J3Z
Pin 1=0
Pin 2=3.69v
Pin 3=2.81v
Readings when the TV kicks off=0 across the board.Last edited by PoteauPets; 02-11-2012, 12:17 AM.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Originally posted by retiredcaps View Posthttps://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...5&d=1327778579
PlainBill also mentioned it as a possibility way back in post #20.
It stands for timing control.
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