Hello, I have been browsing through the forums and this looks just like what I need. I'll start at the beginning. TV is like three years old, and the green power light would come on for a second and then nothing. I took it to the local repair shop in Marion, Indiana. I live in Gas City. He tells me It needs the power supply rebuilt, and it would be about $400.00. Not knowing what I know now, I said ok. I didn't realize just how much he ripped me off until it quit working again and I started looking for parts. This time I removed the back and saw the fuse, checked it, it was bad. Thought this was going to be easy. Bought a new fuse and did a major rookie mistake. Put the fuse in and plugged it in, and there was a nice pop and a spark from the power supply. The red and green light come on now (they didn't before the fuse thing) but nothing happens. Do you think I just damaged the power supply or did I damage something else. I have been in industrial maintenance for 30 years but have never worked on a TV help!
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Re: Magnavox 47MF437B/37 Power supply
Yes you most likely damaged quite a few components on the power supply when you replaced the fuse. It shouldn't have damaged any other boards but anything is possible. You will have to replace the power supply for sure unless you can repair the existing one. It may have just taken out something simple or more likely it took out the components that were initially bad and anything in its surrounding circuit, including a bunch of surface mount components on the back of the board.
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
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I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
The sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles... -
I found a project in the electronics trash yesterday. A nice Argon SA1 audio amp with some electrical issue. Took it apart and saw that the 4A250V fuse was blown so started lifting components to find the short. Eventually got to two MOSFETs (model FTA14N50C) that are shorted and when i took them out the short was gone.
Now i didn't have any replacements of the same model of course but i found a couple with pretty similar spec i thought (K10A60D & K12A50D) and put them in. Also replaced the blown fuse with a 3.5A250V one. Checked another time for short circuit and plugged it in....
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