ADP-160FR ps4 slim PSU, shuts down under load and has severe coil whine.

[playgoods]

It is something like a max809 ic.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...qmF-RbXLOtZ1kK

[stj]

it's a mosfet transistor.

[playgoods]

Could you please help identify this component in the ps4 power supply diagram. I just know it's some kind of voltage supervisor ic but different ps4 psu's have different markings on the same component. I'm trying to find the manufacturer part number.

[speggio91]

FINAL UPDATE ON MY CASE:

replacing the IC 41 (NCP1608) from a donor board made the power supply able to sustain the load and power on the PS4.
Be careful when you buy chips from ebay or alexpress guys.

[speggio91]

EDIT 2:

putting the power supply back on the PS4 and trying to power it on, lead to the same issue of not powering on. After pressing the power button the blue led light on for a second and the it shut down.
The PS4 is fine, it works with another known good PSU.
I guess there is more issue to uncover on the faulty psu.

[speggio91]

EDIT:
I think I found the issue!
I forgot that the 12V controller DDA001AG was not take off a donor board but isntead bought from an ebay seller who sold me also a defective NCP1608.
After watching the video that another user posted on another thread (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx0oBXsueFk) I then tried right away to extract a DDA001AG from a donor board i recently bought and guess what?
Now the 12V is stable even at 18A of load and the coil whine is gone! The voltage is not going lower than 11V and the filter capacitor voltage is 409V. Amazing!

This really tought me to buy only donor boards or from reputable component stores.

I hope this will be helpful to anyone else having similar issues with coil whines or psu failing under load.

[speggio91]

Hello, I have a similar case with a PS4 power supply, model ADP-240CR.
It's story is that the PSU had the main fuse blown and the STF24N60M2 mosfet shorted.
I've then replaced it mistakenly with a 24NM60M2 that has 17 A of max drain current compared to the 18A of the STF24N60M2.

As soon as i powered the psu back on and enabled the 12V line, the 24NM60M2 bursted into pieces and damaged other components such as a tiny 50ohm resistor (R98), a diode (D63), the PFC IC controller NCP1608 (IC41) and the 12V controller DDA001AG (IC32).
After replacing those components from a donor board, the PSU started to work again and I did a quick load test up to 17A for 5 minutes without noticing issues.

I put the psu back on the PS4 and it worked for 2 months, after that it start failing under load, roughly one hour into the games.

After a few days it wasn't even able to power on the PS4 again.

I disassembled it and put it under the electronic load and the 12V is present, the voltage on the main filter cap is 406V. The pfc should be working, but as soon as i crank up the load to 15A i start hearing the coil whine at the primary side, i think on the L1 which is the PFC inductor.
The voltage on the cap remain stable at 405V but the 12V output become 8V..

Is this issue related to the PFC again in your opinion? I have to say that the PS4 was in a room without air conditioning and in the past month here has been so hot.

[temyth]

i don't know exactly how this PS4 PSU works but in ATX PSU's sometimes we have some open trafo. maybe one of the trafo's had open the circuit and thats why it shut downs when it has some kind of load. the wire inside of the trafo may doing just a little contact but when it get load and heats up it lost contact. it just a theory, worth checking. I just don't know if you can buy these trafo's

[Gjackson]

Checked all the 12v secondary output caps too, seem fine, unless there's one that's testing good but is a bit leaky or something I have no clue at this point

[CapLeaker]

well... if these two pics are from the 12v rail... neither of them are any good! I am kinda baffled for a bit, because the secondary should be smooth as silk. I mean it's like all 16v caps are effed on the output?

[прямо]

maybe a 12V DC halogen bulb as a load? or a few of high speed high current 12V DC fans that crypto miners use.

[Gjackson]

Could be, Definitely not the main filter capacitors as I swapped those, so maybe something on the secondary? I'll see If I can get something to test current draw since I don't have a load tester right now

[stj]

maybe a cap is poor in the ripple handling,
if you scope the rails and increase the current does the smoothing start to fail?

[Gjackson]

Found nothing wrong with the feedback circuit, all caps and resistors check out too.

[Gjackson]

Yeah I suspect there's something I missed on the feedback line, maybe something else got fried alongside that resistor, I'll go over it again. But at this point I'm convinced that the PFC is the issue. Here's some snippets I took from my scope on the 12v line. The one with the recurring spikes at 50hz is while I was simply probing the PFC IC feedback pin with one probe of the DMM, the other one is while It's running alone. Possibly some capacitance issues from the fact that simply touching it effects it. Strange that the spikes occur at 50Hz too...

[CapLeaker]

I agree…
start with what you know is wrong. As long as the PFC isn’t stable, something has to be wrong by either consuming power where it shouldn’t or something with the feedback.

[temyth]

maybe going back to the start of everything would be good to redo all the steps that you did. start looking where the problem started, PFC. follow the trails of the feedback resistors that you replaced and see if something that they're connected to have some problem

[Gjackson]

Another dead end unfortunately, Re-flowed basically every through-hole and still no luck. I'm starting to think maybe the large PFC inductor or 12v Flyback is somehow damaged? Quite rare but I've exhausted all other options

[Gjackson]

Good call, to be fair I do sometimes hear a 50hz rattle with the coilwhine, so could be some cracked joint on the hot side

[CapLeaker]

I am not sure what to think about this. I don't think there is a broken chip or anything like that, since the PSU is working fine idling by itself. It just doesn't want to work hard and it seems some voltages are fluctuating and noise appearing. Given the average age of a PS4 slim, the symptoms look to me either capacitor related or dry solder joints in the primary. That explains somewhat the wobbly PFC. Resolder everthing that get's hot in the primary. All the mosfets, transisors and diodes you can find in the primary, doesn't matter on a heat sink or not.