Re: Constant Rebooting with Toshiba L350 Laptop using Power Cable
Iron should be a minimum of 40W, even 60W. There is a fairly large thermal mass there and you may have difficulty even with a 40W iron. If you want to get into this hobby more, i would advise you to buy a cheap temperature controlled iron like a Gordak 936a. It will pay for itself many times over.
Also get the large chisel tip for it, makes such jobs a breeze. You will struggle with a conical tip.
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
Re: Constant Rebooting with Toshiba L350 Laptop using Power Cable
Ok ....
I have taken the advice from the members of this forum and I have managed to get everything I require including a 60w soldering iron to have ago at fixing my laptops nec tokin chip and replacing it with 4 330 smd's
I would like to know please after I have removed the old faulty nec tokin chip and cleaned up the middle between the posative and negative do I need to add a fresh strip of solder to those two strips either side?
Re: Constant Rebooting with Toshiba L350 Laptop using Power Cable
Houston we have a problem!
Ok...
I decided to 'have a go' and it all started ok. It took a long time to get the nec tokin cap off but it came of with loads of scraping.
I have soldered on the caps (see attatchment image)
But...
When I switch on the laptop there is power but there is not monitor working and no hard drive working. I dont know if there is any bios as the monitor is not working. All cables are back where they need to go. The fan is spinning.
Is the laptop toast?
PS. That pointy looking blob on the bottom cap is bluetack as I used that to hold the cap onto a screw driver whilst I soldered it in place.
Re: Constant Rebooting with Toshiba L350 Laptop using Power Cable
It was not necessary to do a lot of scraping to remove the old capacitor as shown in my post 6. Your photo is not clear enough to see what damage has been done.
Have you checked for a short circuit?
Re: Constant Rebooting with Toshiba L350 Laptop using Power Cable
Thank you for your reply. Sorry about the picture but I only have a old 3mp camera.
I might have some short circuits. I will remove the caps and try again.
I would like to know please what is the best way to remove the old solder from the board? I have tried solder wick but it just gets stuck to the board. If I can clean up the old solder I will try again to add the caps but first I must remove the old solder befor I try again to iliminate any short circuits problems.
Also this was asked before in the other thread and not answered. Can you join the 2 negative strips to make it easier to solder the caps?
Edit: just to add that the reason why it took me a while to remove the nec tokin was becaust it came off in bits. I tried like you demonstrated on the images but it just came off in layers.
This is a lot harder than it sounds especially if you have never done this before but I am determined to get this done correctly.
Re: Constant Rebooting with Toshiba L350 Laptop using Power Cable
Yes it does come off in layers. And no it is not necessary to remove the old solder with wick - you can just scrape it off as well.
And yes the two negative strips can be joined, they are actually connected under the green solder mask. That whole square is ground.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
Yes it does come off in layers. And no it is not necessary to remove the old solder with wick - you can just scrape it off as well.
And yes the two negative strips can be joined, they are actually connected under the green solder mask. That whole square is ground.
Thanks you for your reply.
I was talking about the solder I added when making a rubbish job of soldering the caps. I would like to clean off the solder so it is a clean pcb the same as it was before I started to solder.
Thanks for the confimation on the two nagative strips being joined.
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