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Asus ZenBook 13 UX333F External Short - Fast Battery Drain - Need Help
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Very nice. Now flux and solder coat that region with leaded wire solder and remove access with desolder braid. This coating will make soldering back a fresh mosfet easier due to the low temp solder. For the desolder braid, we use a high temp pencil soldering iron from Weller with a blade tip. Ample heat to make the solder turn to liquid state. The PCB has multiple layers so acts like a heatsink and the braid can get stuck to the board if your soldering iron is not hot enough.
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With the 2nd mosfet removed, the values of the 1st mosfet (M3056M) from the front side of the MB are as follows:
Source <> drain = 5.88 Mega Ω
Source <> gate = 4.6 Mega Ω
Drain <> gate = 1.34 Mega Ω
Those values look great to me, what do you guys think?
Edit: measuring the removed mosfet shows same low resistance values
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Originally posted by mon2 View PostVery nice. Now flux and solder coat that region with leaded wire solder and remove access with desolder braid. This coating will make soldering back a fresh mosfet easier due to the low temp solder. For the desolder braid, we use a high temp pencil soldering iron from Weller with a blade tip. Ample heat to make the solder turn to liquid state. The PCB has multiple layers so acts like a heatsink and the braid can get stuck to the board if your soldering iron is not hot enough.
The no name brand (blue cap RoHS tag): According to the MFG tag its 99.5% Sn and 0.1% Lead
Gray Craftsman Lead Free Rosin Core is Low Melting Aloy 96% Tin and 4% Silver
The roll of Maiyum Rosin Core solder is 63% Sn and 37% Lead
What would you recommend out of the 3 options I have?
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Suggest to use 60/40 leaded solder, not lead free solder for rework. Then you will have a lower temp to melt the 60/40 solder.
We buy this stuff in bulk from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.ca/Austor-Activit...s%2C87&sr=8-11
Guessing you will have something similar. Lead free solder will eat away at your solder tips.
Desolder braid is fine.
Let me check the mosfet options and post back. I believe that I linked a few good ones from DK already from Alpha Omega. You do have the metal bottom pads so this is ok for the replacement as well.
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Originally posted by jkucukov View Post
The no name brand (blue cap RoHS tag): According to the MFG tag its 99.5% Sn and 0.1% Lead
The roll of Maiyum Rosin Core solder is 63% Sn and 37% LeadOpenBoardView — https://github.com/OpenBoardView/OpenBoardView
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Originally posted by mon2 View Post
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Originally posted by piernov View Post
Cheap leaded solder from Aliexpress generally performs worse than lead-free solder. Really suggest sourcing a good spool locally. At the very least check how both flow on another PCB with low iron temperature, but I wouldn't trust that to make good solder joints.
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Originally posted by mon2 View Post
Strangely there seems to be two Datasheets in existence for the AON7528, both carry a version date of May 2012 Rev0. I attached the two I got, one from DigiKey and the other from Octopart. The Datasheet from the Octopart site seems to show the right 3x3 size.
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The pcb pads will always be larger than the solder legs of the device. The minor dimension difference should not affect the soldering of the replacement parts. However, the use of a 3*3 mm device will be ideal. Also the other devices have the ability for higher current support.
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Originally posted by mon2 View PostThe pcb pads will always be larger than the solder legs of the device. The minor dimension difference should not affect the soldering of the replacement parts. However, the use of a 3*3 mm device will be ideal. Also the other devices have the ability for higher current support.
Assembled the laptop and we have picture, that's crazy!
Battery is charging, orange light is on and everything seems to work.
I'll take it apparat again and show my 1st mosfet install ever, not the cleanest..
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