Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

[vario]

I have this Biostar N4SLI-A9 that I owned from 05 to 08, then sold to a friend. Recently received it back, there are a few leaking and bulging capacitors.



yuck


3x 16v 1500uf 105*C Nippon NCC KZG / case size: 10x20 / impedance: 0.013 / ripple: 2,550
5x 6.3v 3300uf 105*C Nippon NCC KZG / case size: 10x25 / impedance: .012 / ripple: 2,800
8x 6.3v 1000uf 105*C OST RLP / case size: 8x12 / impedance: .013 / ripple 555


Not all of these are blown but there are a few bulging and/or leaking capacitors from each of these so probably best to do them all eventually. I'll do the obviously damaged ones first and see if it starts up.

I think these specs are correct, I used the engineering sheets for KZG and RLP caps and looked for the case size, uf and voltage ratings to find impedance and ripple, since there wasn't a specific part number.

I have identified possible replacements
UHMC152MPD-ND for the 16v 1500uf http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...MPD-ND/2428113
UHM0J332MPD for the 6.3v 3300uf http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...MPD-ND/2428120

But still need a replacement for the OST RLP 6.3v 1000uf 8x12 Impedance 13 mOhm Ripple 555 mArms.

This data sheet is where I got the information for Impedance and Ripple.


Does anyone have a suggestion for these capacitors, and can anyone tell me if they agree that the two I replacements from digikey are appropriate?

Thanks!

[mariushm]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

Here's a list for 1000uF 6.3v:

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...0&pageSize=500

Get the impedance very close to that 13 mOhm , the ripple value can be equal or higher.
The voltage rating of the capacitor can be higher, the list above is filtered for 6.3v and 10v, both will work.

1500uF 16v choices .. pretty much the first 5 results should work, the ripple and impedance values are close enough:

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...0&pageSize=500

3300uF 6.3v choices ... the first three will work fine:

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...0&pageSize=500

I'd recommend filling the unused spaces for capacitors near the cpu. There's one extra 3300uF 6.3v there on the left near that first coil ( in first picture) and there's one extra 1500uF 16v spot below those two 3300uF capacitors in the second picture, to the right of the existing 1500uF 16v capacitor.

There's one more footprint there for a small capacitor in the second picture, but that's probably for a 100uF 10-16v capacitor, for (probably) some USB connectors that aren't installed (you can also see the fuse footprint to the left, which again is not installed).

Also pay attention to the three capacitors between the ram connectors and the chipset heatsink, the first picture is not that clear but one looks bad to me, the one closest to the IDE cables.

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

Since you're from the USA, you can order from the Badcaps.net online store and help support this site.

These will be a good replacement for the 3300uF 6.3v KZG: https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=176
1000uF 10v: https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=206
1500uF 16v: https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=38

[vario]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

Since you're from the USA, you can order from the Badcaps.net online store and help support this site.

These will be a good replacement for the 3300uF 6.3v KZG: https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=176
1000uF 10v: https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=206
1500uF 16v: https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=38

Sure! thanks for the help!

Why a 2200uF cap to replace a 3300?

[vario]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

In another thread, this was recommend for the 1000 uf 6.3v replacement:
https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=131

Are the ripple, impedance, and ESR compatible in all of these caps with my board's oem caps?

edit: sorry I meant to edit above post not create new post.

[mariushm]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

Yes, it's Nichicon HM , the 3rd, 4th and 5th entry on my digikey link i posted above.

For example the third option: http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...MPD-ND/2428129

They're cheaper on Digikey, but if you want to support this site and its owner, buy from here.

[vario]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

So I don't need to match the impedance or ripple?

[mariushm]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

Again, you have to replace with something that has similar specifications or slightly better.

The impedance should be as close as possible to the old capacitor's impedance. It could be a bit higher or a bit lower, but without going overboard.
For example, old ones say 13 mOhm... the best HM out of those 3 is specc'ed at 18mOhm. I'd say 7..25mOhm would be very safe range. There are polymer capacitors going as low as 3-4 mOhm, there are also low ESR capacitors with 40-60 mOhm spec.

Higher impedance could be a problem, much lower impedance could also be a problem (but unlikely considering HOW these 1000uF capacitors are used in circuit).

The Nichicon HM that are 8x20mm on Digikey have 18 mOhm esr, but even the cheapest of those 3 are 28mOhm, which is a bit much but they'd still work OK.

You also have to keep in mind that 13 mOhm for a 1000uF 6.3v capacitor in that size and diameter, from a company like OST no less, is kind of wishful thinking, so the datasheet (or the manufacturer) may be a bit too optimistic, or that esr may be that value only for the first minutes of the capacitor's life. As the capacitor went bad, the ESR increased yet the motherboard was still working fine for quite a long time. So there is some room to work with and therefore choosing a capacitor with a bit higher ESR would be OK.

The ripple value is the maximum the capacitor can tolerate. As you don't know exactly how much ripple occurs in the circuit, it's best to replace capacitor with something that has this value as close as possible, or higher than the old capacitor's value.
Nobody in their right mind would design something that would constantly hit that maximum specification for that capacitor, so if you find a capacitor that has a rating a few percent lower, it should still be fine.
But even the cheapest Nichicon HM from those 3 is rated almost 3 times as better at 1.49 compared to the 0.555 mA of the old OST capacitors.

The diameter is 8mm so they'll fit in the room you have, the height is a bit more but who cares, it's not like they block a heatsink or something... they're far enough to not cause problems.

So you "matched" the values... match doesn't mean exactly the same values, like I've explained above.

[vario]

Re: Re-Capping Biostar N4SLI-A9

Again, you have to replace with something that has similar specifications or slightly better.

The impedance should be as close as possible to the old capacitor's impedance. It could be a bit higher or a bit lower, but without going overboard.
For example, old ones say 13 mOhm... the best HM out of those 3 is specc'ed at 18mOhm. I'd say 7..25mOhm would be very safe range. There are polymer capacitors going as low as 3-4 mOhm, there are also low ESR capacitors with 40-60 mOhm spec.

Higher impedance could be a problem, much lower impedance could also be a problem (but unlikely considering HOW these 1000uF capacitors are used in circuit).

The Nichicon HM that are 8x20mm on Digikey have 18 mOhm esr, but even the cheapest of those 3 are 28mOhm, which is a bit much but they'd still work OK.

You also have to keep in mind that 13 mOhm for a 1000uF 6.3v capacitor in that size and diameter, from a company like OST no less, is kind of wishful thinking, so the datasheet (or the manufacturer) may be a bit too optimistic, or that esr may be that value only for the first minutes of the capacitor's life. As the capacitor went bad, the ESR increased yet the motherboard was still working fine for quite a long time. So there is some room to work with and therefore choosing a capacitor with a bit higher ESR would be OK.

The ripple value is the maximum the capacitor can tolerate. As you don't know exactly how much ripple occurs in the circuit, it's best to replace capacitor with something that has this value as close as possible, or higher than the old capacitor's value.
Nobody in their right mind would design something that would constantly hit that maximum specification for that capacitor, so if you find a capacitor that has a rating a few percent lower, it should still be fine.
But even the cheapest Nichicon HM from those 3 is rated almost 3 times as better at 1.49 compared to the 0.555 mA of the old OST capacitors.

The diameter is 8mm so they'll fit in the room you have, the height is a bit more but who cares, it's not like they block a heatsink or something... they're far enough to not cause problems.

So you "matched" the values... match doesn't mean exactly the same values, like I've explained above.

Thank you very much that was very helpful! Thank you again.