Winfast/Leadtek a250 Ultra

[Silverbane]

I started having trouble with my video card starting up. Yesterday it just died. Tried an older one worked fine so was glad to se it was not my MoBo or Monitor.

I couldn't for the life of me figure out why it died as it was not that old but just chaulked it up to hey it's electronic and it dies. Well I emailed leadtec about any warranty it might have if any at all. After I emailed them I was looking at the card and noticed 1 leaking cap and 2 bulging ones.

Was just curious as to where I get the uF info and such or even better what to use as a replacement if Leadtek doesn't help me.

All I could get off the caps is the following info :

GSC T26a
[RE] 105 degC
6.3v

Any help here would be great.

Also should I replace all caps or just faulty ones.

Thanks again,
Silverbane

[Topcat]

The cap has to have a value on it somewhere. More than likely, they're 1000uF or 470uF. Those are the most common values on graphics cards. The 470uF caps usually don't fail, but I have seen GSC 470uF caps go... GSC is the crappiest of crappy caps... The 1000uF caps are notorious for failure by most all questionable and known crap cap manufacturers.

If you can, snap pics of the caps and post them. Maybe someone here can ID it by looking. Make sure you get pics of all sides.

[Silverbane]

There 1000uF .. just noticed it hidden between it and another cap ..

I know they sell caps here. Was wondering how much it would cost and if I should replace all the other caps as well.

I got a response from Leadtek and unforunatally it's no longer under warranty but said they can do out of warranty repairs for a fee. I replied telling them what was wrong and that it should not cost me anything seeing how it left the factory defective but we all know ill never get a free repair or replacement. I also asked it it was possible for them to send me new caps but I doubt they will.

The other caps on the board are :

GSC T23E
105 deg C
330 uF
6.3v
Color : Dark Purple w/ Gold Writing
(THERE IS 1 OF THESE)

Sanyo 510/4 (actually looks like a fraction 510 over 4)
105 deg C (next to that it says 43)
OSCON
Color : Light Purple w/ White/grey Writing
(THERE ARE 2 OF THESE)

Sanyo 510/4 (actually looks like a fraction 510 over 4)
105 deg C (next to that it says 44)
OSCON
Color : Light Purple w/ White/grey Writing
(THERE ARE 3 OF THESE)

GSC T22A
105 deg C (Next to that it says LE in a box)
470 uF
16v
Color : Dark Purple w/ gold writing
(THERE ARE 4 OF THESE)

Unknown
-55 deg C ~ 105 deg C
820 uF
4v
There is also a M over the numbers 23267
Color : Yellow w/ Black writing
(THERE IS 1 OF THESE)

GSC T26A
105 deg C (Next to this it says RE in a box)
6.3v
Color : Green w/ Gold writing
(THERE ARE 3 OF THESE ... all blown)

Unforunatally I can't take pics as I don't have a digital camera.

Hopefully these descriptions help though.

Thanks again
Silverbane

[Silverbane]

I was looking at an old mobo and saw it had a few 1500uF 6.3v caps on it is this safe to use or is it recommended to replace with the same uF and voltage

Silverbane

[Silverbane]

I'm aswering my own questions here :0

I was reading the installation steps and such on the web page. So I guess using 1500uF is outta the question

I did notice that there where 1000uF 10v caps on the old board and i read that higher voltage would be ok to use but you also stated that it would be a bad idea to use the older ones as they might be worse (of course what could be worse than burst leaky caps).

If you could give me a good quote on a cap kit for my vidcard that would be great. What brand caps are you using by the way?

Thanks again and sorry to be a pain in the butt.

Silverbane

[R3nzoku]

8k3ae

I ahve an epox mobo and I have 10 leaking capacitors and they are the same
GSC
RE 105 C
T26A
I just want to now if I can replace them with any 6.3v and 1000uF capacitor

[willawake]

Re: Winfast/Leadtek a250 Ultra

welcome to the forum

you may use any low-esr capacitor to replace the ones on your motherboard.

there is a list here
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=613
any are good but the lowest esr (the best) are towards the right of each list.

if you have 1000 6.3v you may use again 1000 6.3v or you may use 1000 10v. Do not use less than 6.3v.

[trodas]

Re: Winfast/Leadtek a250 Ultra

Well, the 1500uF ones might not be as bad idea. On GFX boards caps are used (to my knowledge) in 99% of cases to filter the voltages/cover load spikes. Therefore the bigger the better. If they fit, use them. Nothing worser that the cardie will still not work can happen

There ARE few exceptions, tough, when you CAN't increase the size of the cap. These are mostly rare, tough I managed to recently step up on one too, so, take care.

From the caps, if you live in US, I would recommend ordering the Rubycons from Topcat (not sure if he can offer MBZ instead of 40% worser MCZ, commondly spread everywhere), or you can buy Pannasonic FM ones from Digi-Key.com (they can send even to europe, but get ready for step postage price and problems with customs), or you can try Samxons (much to Topcat dismay, they seems to be at least equal to the Rubycons, tough the GC ones are only equal to MCZ ones, while the GA will challenge the MBZ ones, but yet not awailable...)

In short, ANYTHYNG over GSC will feel god-like


PS. Topcat, I thought that Teapos are the worsest ever, I'm wrong?

[trodas]

Re: Winfast/Leadtek a250 Ultra

ooops, I inverted the caps, Rubycons MBZ is best, MCZ is worser:

Rubycon MCZ 1800uF 16V - impedance 0.009 - ripple current 3230 (2000 hours) 10x25
Rubycon MBZ 1800uF 16V - impedance 0.013 - ripple current 2800 (2000 hours) 10x23

My bad

[gonzo0815]

Re: Winfast/Leadtek a250 Ultra

You inverted again ;-)
But keep in mind that MCZ are not long life, but ok they will best for vrm oín any case.

[trodas]

Re: Winfast/Leadtek a250 Ultra

I know, better never mind...
I got a bit... never mind.

Anyway MCZ are rated as the same lifetime as MBZ and therefore I think they will hold up about the same time as the MBZ ones, don't you think? And probably even a longer, since given by their specs - they won't get so much loaded, so...

I don't know. But I yet to hear about failed Rubycons.
A little loss of specs in time - sure. But nothing major, I quess

I think they got their name and fame for something

I, personally, would go for the Nichicons HZ, or Samxons GA - both have even better specs:

Samxon GA 1800uF 16V - impedance 0.007 - ripple current 4140 (2000 hours) 10x25
Nichicon HZ 1800uF 16V - impedance 0.006.5 - ripple current 4140 (2000 hours) 10x25

Yet both are ATM completely unawailable. I have no idea where to get hi-spec Nichicons. Few Nichocons are awailable in digi-key.com, yet they aren't nowhere near these super low esr brands HZ, HN, HM...
And Samxons GA need at least 20k order so the factory start the production line to make some, so... ATM no luck.

...now just what company to convice to give the Samxons try?
Some of them is willing to use crap like Teapos, CGS caps and such things that one should not touch with ten foot pole, so it should not be hard work and the price is very competitive too - and experiences with the lower GD and average GC line is very positive as well, asian overclockers using them and no complains so far...