Original Asus A7V

[Maxxarcade]

I have a system with the original A7V and a Tbird 1200. Recently it has started to not post until the reset button is pressed. The caps look ok, but I'm wondering if they might be going bad. Isn't the A7V one of the more common affected boards? I'm going to be using this system as a relatively important server, so I'm considering recapping it ahead of time.

[Shroomie]

Re: Original Asus A7V

What brand are the capacitors? They may still be bad, especially if they're Teapo. (In this case, ignore my sig. )

[Rainbow]

Re: Original Asus A7V

Check yellow caps on the power board - if they're even very slightly bulged, they need replacing.

[Maxxarcade]

Re: Original Asus A7V

I think these are green with a silver stripe. I'll have to look at it when I get to work tomorrow.

[kc8adu]

Re: Original Asus A7V

the yellow k vent caps on the vrm unit are often bad on these.they are polymers like oscons.there will be a yellow cap on the main board close to the vrm which is also bad.
if they are bulging/domed top they are bad.when i didnt have any polymers handy i used 2200@6.3 panasonic fc.aint pretty but works!

[Big Pope]

Re: Original Asus A7V

the yellow k vent caps on the vrm unit are often bad on these.they are polymers like oscons.there will be a yellow cap on the main board close to the vrm which is also bad.
if they are bulging/domed top they are bad.when i didnt have any polymers handy i used 2200@6.3 panasonic fc.aint pretty but works!

The yellow polymers are Fujitsu polymers at earlier period.

[Shroomie]

Re: Original Asus A7V

Green and silver could be a number of baddies - IQ, GL, OST, and maybe Teapo come to mind.

Could be Pannys or one of the Chemi-Cons, too, though I doubt it given the period this board was maufactured.

Got a brand yet?

[Rainbow]

Re: Original Asus A7V

There shouldn't be any of the crap brands on these boards.

[Maxxarcade]

Re: Original Asus A7V

There are a few of the yellow caps with a black stripe, they don't look bulged, but the board is showing symtoms of failing caps. I can't see them well enough to get a brand off them. I'll have to remove the board from the case.

If I do decide to replace them, do I have to remove the VRM to access them? How hard would that be to remove? I have a Hakko 703B rework station.