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Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

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  • singion
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    hi guys
    found this place a few days ago after looking for a fix for my screen
    the story so far is about a week ago while using the screen i saw a puff of smoke come from the top and the left side went darker than the right

    so i opened it up and 1 p5504edg was fried and also bad caps at least 7 bottom bulged
    i have replaced all the caps and also replaced all the p5504's and the p2804's

    turned screen on and it worked fine fixed

    but there was a loud buzz coming from the back , i then went into the onscreen menu and changed the setting
    the one to the left of movie ( graphic i think option was) and suddenly the screen went blank and i am now stuck with this issue.


    i get about 2 second of picture hear a tiny click and screen goes blank

    do i now need to try and change these "m" fuses

    yours Singion


    ps first time i fixed something at this lvl so my solder work ant great should i try resoldering any else first
    Last edited by singion; 05-13-2011, 09:46 AM.

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  • jetadm123
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Originally posted by fa28 View Post
    Where can I get a 1.25A 24v fuse the same size to replace the M fuse, (3.20mm x 1.60mm x 0.60mm). I ordered one from digikey and didn't check the size and it was (1.00mm x 0.50mm x 0.40mm). Searching again, all the 1.25A 24V fast smd fuses seem to be this small, same at Mouser.
    1) go to digikey.com and type in "1.25V 1206 fuse" and click search
    2) click on the "fuses" link
    3) at bottom of page, click on "view page" button. A listing of the available fuses will appear. Choose something that's fast blow, 32V or above (since the input voltage is at 24V).

    Leave a comment:


  • fa28
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Where can I get a 1.25A 24v fuse the same size to replace the M fuse, (3.20mm x 1.60mm x 0.60mm). I ordered one from digikey and didn't check the size and it was (1.00mm x 0.50mm x 0.40mm). Searching again, all the 1.25A 24V fast smd fuses seem to be this small, same at Mouser.
    Last edited by fa28; 05-12-2011, 09:36 AM.

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  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Originally posted by opperhoof View Post
    Where can I measure that? (i.e. which wires are + and -?)
    A screw that attaches the inverter board to the monitors metal frame work would be your ground.
    The supply voltage is going to be different but this link should give you a idea what to look for and how to test, just be very careful when you measure
    http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/U_PIN.aspx
    When you use the ohmmeter have the inverter unpluged an no voltage supplied
    Last edited by alexanna; 05-12-2011, 09:01 AM.

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  • opperhoof
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Originally posted by alexanna View Post
    It would probably be a good idea to verify you have 24V going to the inverter
    Where can I measure that? (i.e. which wires are + and -?)

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Originally posted by opperhoof View Post
    There is indeed an image. Very dark, but with a flashlight I can see it, so I think I am gonna buy the new inverter board.
    It would probably be a good idea to verify you have 24V going to the inverter

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    See if the mosfets on the inverter board are shorted or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • opperhoof
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    There is indeed an image. Very dark, but with a flashlight I can see it, so I think I am gonna buy the new inverter board.

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    I would say yes there should be an image, however on some monitors it can be difficult to see.
    If you do not have a way to power on at least one of the backlights to check for an image, you might try playing a movie you may be able to get some type of indication is its working

    Leave a comment:


  • opperhoof
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Yes they are.

    I can buy a new inverter board for just 30 euros (like 50 USD). But how can I test if my screen works with the new inverter? Should my screen produce a picture without inverter board?

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    ^
    After your repair and testing are all the inverter fuses still good?

    Leave a comment:


  • opperhoof
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    I have an AL2416W as well which almost exploded. It was running, and out of nowhere a hard BANG or PLOF. Screen still running, so I was looking around in my room what just broke. Than 10 seconds later an other bang, and the monitor went black.
    When I press the power button the ACER logo appeared very soft. When I connect my laptop to the screen it does not diplay any image. (not even as soft as the logo).

    Then I opened it up. The top 4 caps which are glued together were broken. The bottom came out. I replaced those with 100uF antel caps and a the fuse f3 was broken as well so I replaced that one with a 1.25A fuse.

    When I power on the monitor the screen stays black. Not even a ACER-logo. I hear a small tick somewhere around the connector of the 4th ccfl.
    If I power up the monitor with the inverter board disconnected I still don't see the acer logo appear, but the click is obvious gone.

    What to do now?

    Leave a comment:


  • Chyenne
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Just registered to share my story with this monitor.I had no experience at all fixing hardware on this level but this thread alone practically got me an almost free LCD. Thank You!

    It had the same problem: 2 seconds acer logo, then no backlight
    1.) replaced all 10 caps with EEUFC1V101B (the original looked fine and the problem persisted)
    2.) tested the mosfets and fuses for continuity
    - one mosfet had continuity between the top and any leg (changed only that one)
    - one fuse was blown (replaced it with a 1.25A fuse which worked for about an hour and blew; then replaced that with a 4A fuse)
    It has been working for a week now.
    If you are living in germany and have, like me, no understanding of the specifications of transistors, tversatzteile.de is selling P5504EDG and P2804BDG.

    I have to say i'm very impressed by the quality of this forum and this little project won't be the last

    Leave a comment:


  • jetadm123
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Originally posted by kehall View Post
    Just a final update - the monitor worked perfectly with the replacement 1.25A fuse.
    Interesting, since a lot of other designs use 3-4 amp fuse. Man, why can't these guys just stamp the numerical value on the fuse? Oh yeah, that would be too easy.
    Last edited by jetadm123; 04-29-2011, 05:33 PM.

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  • kehall
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Just a final update - the monitor worked perfectly with the replacement 1.25A fuse.

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  • kehall
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    MOSFETs installed today and installed the "J" 1.25A Fast Blow fuse and works perfectly.

    I would say at this point that 4A is overrated, and indeed they are 'M' marked not W. (I'd have expected 1.25A to be completely underrated and blow immediately otherwise).

    Will soak for next 24 hours.

    Keith.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lumberjack777
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Originally posted by kehall View Post
    Nice thought but not quite - I need a working monitor to find out what the correct operating current is, and although I've repaired 2 of these already which were just cap replacements, they have now gone, and the only one left (that I get to keep for my troubles!) is waiting for replacement FETs on one side so I can't remove the good side fuse to test as it doesn't stay on long enough for a reading, and doing that where a short caused the blow is a bad idea.

    Does anyone have a monitor they've just fixed and would be prepared to lift the fuse and measure the current so we know for sure rather than all this guesswork?

    I agree with other people saying it does indeed look like an M (straight side strokes) rather than a W (angled side strokes).

    It doesn't help that Bourn's use different codes to other people... i.e. another standard uses J for 1.25A fast blow (Bourn's M), and S for 4A (W with Bourn's - their 'S' is 2A!).

    As a blind man's test I've bought some J's so when the FETs arrive from China (still waiting on them) I guess we'll see if 1.25A is enough to cover operations, if so, I'd suggest everyone with 4A ones replace with 1.25A to ensure continued safe failure condition.

    Regards,

    Keith
    LOL. I fully agree. This is slightly confusing. A picture I saw, and attached, was definitely white fuses with an "M" marking.
    The one I repaired had fuses that were black and I'm 99% sure they were "W". But..... that inverter had been previously repaired, and it's possible the person put the black "W's" in there.
    Please keep us informed if those 1.25A fuses work. For at least a week or so would be a good burn in time. Thanks

    L-J-7
    Attached Files

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  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    As has been mentioned occasionally, one of the more useful pieces of bench equipment is a power supply such as the PS305D; a 30V 5A variable supply. You can apply voltage slowly while monitoring current and avoid letting the magic smoke out of expensive components. They aren't cheap, and the shipping cost will bring tears to your eyes, but they sure are nice to have around.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Whatever you do don't make the same mistake I made. It's been mentioned here in the forum not to jump a fuse which is obviously something don't want to do.
    I probably should have used PlainBills light bulb trick for testing but I didn't,for testing I substituted a 4a ATC type fuse for the 4a fast blow fuse that was on the board, the ATC did not open up fast enough and it created a lot more work for me. In fact the fuse never failed it just blew the top off of a MOSFET, and did some circuit board damage.
    There is a reason they use a fast blow fuse

    Leave a comment:


  • kehall
    replied
    Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

    Originally posted by severach View Post
    Measuring the current is easy once the fuse burns out. Hook up the amp meter across the fuse.
    Nice thought but not quite - I need a working monitor to find out what the correct operating current is, and although I've repaired 2 of these already which were just cap replacements, they have now gone, and the only one left (that I get to keep for my troubles!) is waiting for replacement FETs on one side so I can't remove the good side fuse to test as it doesn't stay on long enough for a reading, and doing that where a short caused the blow is a bad idea.

    Does anyone have a monitor they've just fixed and would be prepared to lift the fuse and measure the current so we know for sure rather than all this guesswork?

    I agree with other people saying it does indeed look like an M (straight side strokes) rather than a W (angled side strokes).

    It doesn't help that Bourn's use different codes to other people... i.e. another standard uses J for 1.25A fast blow (Bourn's M), and S for 4A (W with Bourn's - their 'S' is 2A!).

    As a blind man's test I've bought some J's so when the FETs arrive from China (still waiting on them) I guess we'll see if 1.25A is enough to cover operations, if so, I'd suggest everyone with 4A ones replace with 1.25A to ensure continued safe failure condition.

    Regards,

    Keith

    Leave a comment:

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