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    #1

    Samsung 216bw

    I have a Samsung 216bw that what I think is a cap probem. When I turn it on it flickers for maybe 20 seconds then shuts down. I then have to turn it on apox 15 to 20 times before it stays on. Each time I turn it on it shuts back down by itself after about a second.

    I took the monitor apart and found 10 radial electrolytic caps on the power board. I am thinking about changing all of them. Is this a smart idea? Here is a list of the cap I see on the board.

    5x 820uf 25v CapXon
    1x 100uf 450v JH
    1x 22uf 50v CapXon
    1x 330uf 25v CapXon
    1x 47uv 50v CapXon
    1x (can't read, looks like 32uf) CapXon (C714) Anyone know???
    There are also several smaller caps I think they are Tantalum.

    Any advice on whitch ones to replace?
    Tags: None
    #2
    Re: Samsung 216bw

    Originally posted by booboo
    I have a Samsung 216bw that what I think is a cap probem. When I turn it on it flickers for maybe 20 seconds then shuts down. I then have to turn it on apox 15 to 20 times before it stays on. Each time I turn it on it shuts back down by itself after about a second.

    I took the monitor apart and found 10 radial electrolytic caps on the power board. I am thinking about changing all of them. Is this a smart idea? Here is a list of the cap I see on the board.

    5x 820uf 25v CapXon
    1x 100uf 450v JH
    1x 22uf 50v CapXon
    1x 330uf 25v CapXon
    1x 47uv 50v CapXon
    1x (can't read, looks like 32uf) CapXon (C714) Anyone know???
    There are also several smaller caps I think they are Tantalum.

    Any advice on whitch ones to replace?
    Some clarification is required. Does 'shuts back down' mean both the screen and power button go dark, or only the screen?

    If it's both, this is most likely bad caps. As for which caps to replace, everything on the list with the exception of the 100uF, 450 Volt cap should be replaced. The caps you suspect are tantalum are probably ceramic. Pictures would be helpful. Compare the physical size of C714 to the 22uF 50 Volt. 32 uF is a very non-standard value. 22µ and 33uF are possible values.

    PlainBill
    For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

    Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

    Comment

      #3
      Re: Samsung 216bw

      Originally posted by PlainBill
      Some clarification is required. Does 'shuts back down' mean both the screen and power button go dark, or only the screen?

      If it's both, this is most likely bad caps. As for which caps to replace, everything on the list with the exception of the 100uF, 450 Volt cap should be replaced. The caps you suspect are tantalum are probably ceramic. Pictures would be helpful. Compare the physical size of C714 to the 22uF 50 Volt. 32 uF is a very non-standard value. 22µ and 33uF are possible values.

      PlainBill
      OK, ceramic. Not my day job. I am very good at soldering though.

      Here is a picture of the board indicating the caps. The five caps with the X on top are the 820uf 25v.

      I just took the monitor apart to take the picture. When I turned it back on it did not flicker like normal but it did shut down a couple times. Each time the blue power button light stayed on.

      Comment

        #4
        Re: Samsung 216bw

        Originally posted by booboo
        OK, ceramic. Not my day job. I am very good at soldering though.

        Here is a picture of the board indicating the caps. The five caps with the X on top are the 820uf 25v.

        I just took the monitor apart to take the picture. When I turned it back on it did not flicker like normal but it did shut down a couple times. Each time the blue power button light stayed on.
        Did you notice a pink hue when the flicker occurs? Or a buzzing sound?
        If you do, the CCFLs are dying.
        There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
        • ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
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          2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )

        Comment

          #5
          Re: Samsung 216bw

          Originally posted by booboo
          OK, ceramic. Not my day job. I am very good at soldering though.

          Here is a picture of the board indicating the caps. The five caps with the X on top are the 820uf 25v.

          I just took the monitor apart to take the picture. When I turned it back on it did not flicker like normal but it did shut down a couple times. Each time the blue power button light stayed on.
          CCFLs shutting down with the power LED on is a symptom of a problem with the backlight system. This COULD be a problem with the caps. It's a little hard to tell, but it looks to me like a couple of the caps in the lower left corner are bulging. If the tops aren't perfectly flat, the first step is to replace all the caps.

          PlainBill
          For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

          Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

          Comment

            #6
            Re: Samsung 216bw

            No pink but it has a high pitch buz. I will replace all of the caps and see if that helps. If it is the CCFLs, can they be replaced? Anyone have an idea of what the unknown cap is?

            I have to order the caps because we do not have a local electronics store. Should I replace all of them including the big one?
            Last edited by booboo; 01-02-2010, 08:57 AM.

            Comment

              #7
              Re: Samsung 216bw

              Looking closer the 330uf cap and the 5 820uf caps are bulging and some even are oozing brown stuff. The rest look fine. I have a radio shack locally but they have a limited supply of caps and do not have the ones I need. Do I need to order the exact ones or can I use something different from radio shack.

              Comment

                #8
                Re: Samsung 216bw

                Originally posted by booboo
                Looking closer the 330uf cap and the 5 820uf caps are bulging and some even are oozing brown stuff. The rest look fine. I have a radio shack locally but they have a limited supply of caps and do not have the ones I need. Do I need to order the exact ones or can I use something different from radio shack.
                NO RADIOSHACK CAPS. PERIOD.
                You need low ESR and the shack caps' are not.
                I MUST have a board like that around here, and can look for the cap's value, but I doubt it's causing problems.
                There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
                • ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
                • Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
                • 16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
                • 1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
                • Windows 10 Pro x64
                • GeForce GT1050
                  2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )

                Comment

                  #9
                  Re: Samsung 216bw

                  They're special low ESR caps. Use only that kind for replacement.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Re: Samsung 216bw

                    Originally posted by eguevarae
                    NO RADIOSHACK CAPS. PERIOD.
                    You need low ESR and the shack caps' are not.
                    I MUST have a board like that around here, and can look for the cap's value, but I doubt it's causing problems.
                    So you think it is the CCFLs. Where do I get new ones for this monitor? If they are a resonable price I will replace them and all of the caps or at least the ones that look bad. If the CCFLs are not reasonabley priced, I am going to replace the monitor. I use this monitor everyday for my work and am getting afraid that it may stop working soon.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Re: Samsung 216bw

                      Forget CCFLs for now , just recap with low esr caps and the chances are that your monitor will be up and running again
                      Dont buy your caps from r/shack they are not suitable
                      As Eguevarae said if you cannot identify that cap then leave it for now, it is possibly not causing any problem
                      Last edited by Bobdee; 01-02-2010, 10:31 AM.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Re: Samsung 216bw

                        I had the same issue on my Samsung SyncMaster 216BW, the screen flickered when turning it on, it shut down after a second or two and you had to turn it on 5-10 times before it stayed on. I changed out 3 of the 820uF and the 330uF caps (btw, it is 330uF , not 3300uF), all located next to each other in a cluster and having bulging tops. Fixed the issue, like new!

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Re: Samsung 216bw

                          This monitor stopped working again. It will start up for about 10 seconds then slightly dim for another 5 seconds or so and then go black. It will start up again if I hit the source button or unplug and replug the monitor from the computer.

                          I thought maybe the caps are blown again. None of them looked bad but I replaced them anyways. This did not fix the problem. I did make few mistakes, I got general purpose caps (not low ESR), I replaced the 2.2uf cap with a 22uf and I did not replace the 22uf cap at all.

                          What should I do?

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Re: Samsung 216bw

                            Originally posted by booboo View Post
                            This monitor stopped working again. It will start up for about 10 seconds then slightly dim for another 5 seconds or so and then go black. It will start up again if I hit the source button or unplug and replug the monitor from the computer.

                            I thought maybe the caps are blown again. None of them looked bad but I replaced them anyways. This did not fix the problem. I did make few mistakes, I got general purpose caps (not low ESR), I replaced the 2.2uf cap with a 22uf and I did not replace the 22uf cap at all.

                            What should I do?
                            Anyone?

                            Comment

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