Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Backlight problem on a AL1916W

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Backlight problem on a AL1916W

    I received this power supply board from a guy who wanted a repair on it. I replaced the two caps you see in the picture. I gave the power supply back to the guy, but he had the whole thing taken all the way apart. After reassembly it doesnt go together just right but it does now it power on just fine. Their is still however a problem with the backlights, they do not power on at all. The image can be faintly seen with external lighting. Now I did some research about a fuse keeping the backlights from powering on.

    I don't have a lot of experience in fuses but if the red and green circles are fuses then when i test the green one for ohms it passes and the red one does not.

    For the Mosfets, the blue one receives ohms through all 3 pins and the pink one does not.

    If any of these things would apply to my current problem please let me know. If you think it is something else then lets hear it.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

    Originally posted by IRShifty
    I received this power supply board from a guy who wanted a repair on it. I replaced the two caps you see in the picture. I gave the power supply back to the guy, but he had the whole thing taken all the way apart. After reassembly it doesnt go together just right but it does now it power on just fine. Their is still however a problem with the backlights, they do not power on at all. The image can be faintly seen with external lighting. Now I did some research about a fuse keeping the backlights from powering on.

    I don't have a lot of experience in fuses but if the red and green circles are fuses then when i test the green one for ohms it passes and the red one does not.

    For the Mosfets, the blue one receives ohms through all 3 pins and the pink one does not.

    If any of these things would apply to my current problem please let me know. If you think it is something else then lets hear it.
    Been there, done that. This thread has all the details.

    The two components you circled are resistors. The drill is simple. Replace both mosfets, replace the fuse, replace the caps. The fuse is a smd type on the copper side of the board. IIRC, I used a 4A fast blow. The mosfets are available on eBay.

    Question: What caps did you use as replacements?

    PlainBill
    For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

    Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

      Thanks for the fast reply Plainbill

      I was reading that thread through before I made this one but did not see much about the backlights. I have had your ebay link to the mosfets open for awhile so I have that. Do you think I need to replace the fuse? or only if it is bad? For the replacement caps I used on hand crappy ones. aka radioshack, but they work for now.
      Last edited by IRShifty; 05-18-2009, 10:32 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

        Also, do you know of anyone that has a tutorial or a guide or anything like that on disassembling/reassembling this monitor? I would prefer if it was back together properly. If not then its okay. all the parts will be inside and working.

        Edit: reading through the first thread again i am seeing plenty about the backlight. I guess i was in a hurry before. Now i feel dumb for starting a new thread =X.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

          Originally posted by IRShifty
          Thanks for the fast reply Plainbill

          I was reading that thread through before I made this one but did not see much about the backlights. I have had your ebay link to the mosfets open for awhile so I have that. Do you think I need to replace the fuse? or only if it is bad? For the replacement caps I used on hand crappy ones. aka radioshack, but they work for now.
          Excuse me while I embark on a minor rant.

          There is a famous proverb "It's a poor workman who blames his tools." Like most proverbs, it is only partially true. The most important asset for any workman is his mind. But even a genius needs some basic tools. Fixing monitors isn't difficult, but you need screwdrivers, a soldering iron and solder, wire cutters, and a clear place to work. You also need a multimeter. A cheap VOM will do, although I prefer a move versatile DMM. OK, rant over.

          I don't know if it is necessary to replace the fuse. Is it open? If it is, replace it. If it isn't, don't. Use your VOM or DMM. If you don't have one, buy one.

          On an additional note, I recently repaired an identical monitor. The damage consisted of: Two caps with bulging tops, a shorted FET, and a blown fuse. I also replaced the rest of the caps because they are a known bad brand and the additional cost was minimal. After I removed them, I tested them with my ESR meter. The two from the inverter failed, the remainder passed.

          My conclusion is this inverter has a poor design that stresses the caps. When the caps fail the FETs take an additional load and one or both will also fail, blowing the fuse. Unless you enjoy replacing failed capacitors, shorted transistors, and open fuses, do NOT use inferior capacitors. If for no other reason, consider your reputation.

          PlainBill
          For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

          Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

            Originally posted by PlainBill
            Excuse me while I embark on a minor rant.

            There is a famous proverb "It's a poor workman who blames his tools." Like most proverbs, it is only partially true. The most important asset for any workman is his mind. But even a genius needs some basic tools. Fixing monitors isn't difficult, but you need screwdrivers, a soldering iron and solder, wire cutters, and a clear place to work. You also need a multimeter. A cheap VOM will do, although I prefer a move versatile DMM. OK, rant over.

            I don't know if it is necessary to replace the fuse. Is it open? If it is, replace it. If it isn't, don't. Use your VOM or DMM. If you don't have one, buy one.

            On an additional note, I recently repaired an identical monitor. The damage consisted of: Two caps with bulging tops, a shorted FET, and a blown fuse. I also replaced the rest of the caps because they are a known bad brand and the additional cost was minimal. After I removed them, I tested them with my ESR meter. The two from the inverter failed, the remainder passed.

            My conclusion is this inverter has a poor design that stresses the caps. When the caps fail the FETs take an additional load and one or both will also fail, blowing the fuse. Unless you enjoy replacing failed capacitors, shorted transistors, and open fuses, do NOT use inferior capacitors. If for no other reason, consider your reputation.

            PlainBill
            I have repaired some units that use that very same PSU/Inverter board (Acer and Westinghouse), and as per PCBONEZ suggestion, I replace the MOSFETs in pairs even if only one failed. As per the fuse, it is/was always blown. And for the caps, you are already there, so change them all just as a precaution, as the cost is minimal and you might avoid reopening the unit again just for another cap (especially when the caps are a known bad brand).
            There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
            • ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
            • Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
            • 16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
            • 1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
            • Windows 10 Pro x64
            • GeForce GT1050
              2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

              alright alright, ill stop being lazy and open the wallet to save time =)

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

                Originally posted by IRShifty
                alright alright, ill stop being lazy and open the wallet to save time =)
                There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
                • ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
                • Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
                • 16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
                • 1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
                • Windows 10 Pro x64
                • GeForce GT1050
                  2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Backlight problem on a AL1916W

                  Originally posted by eguevarae
                  I have repaired some units that use that very same PSU/Inverter board (Acer and Westinghouse), and as per PCBONEZ suggestion, I replace the MOSFETs in pairs even if only one failed. As per the fuse, it is/was always blown. And for the caps, you are already there, so change them all just as a precaution, as the cost is minimal and you might avoid reopening the unit again just for another cap (especially when the caps are a known bad brand).
                  Hi,

                  I have the same issue - and step-by-step I found, that:
                  1, two 220uF/25V caps bulged - exhcanged all
                  2, fuse Fxx1 blown - I decided to use 3,15A
                  When fuse was changed - backlight starts 'clicking'

                  3, one of 40T03GP MOSFET-s dead (shorted)
                  I decided to exchange both FETs - as you suggest.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X