Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Nice pics. I like how everything else is out of focus except the caps.

In the meantime, attached are pictures of the bad caps.

[BladeParker]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Installed my new caps from DigiKey and my monitor is as good as new!

New soldering iron: $8.99
New solder-sucker: $9.99
New caps: $3.13 (plus $4.95 shipping)

Doing it yourself? Priceless!

Thanks a lot to everyone who has posted on this thread!

Just for reference, here are the parts I ordered:

Qty  Part#       Mfr Part#             Desc          Unit Price
2    565-1800-ND  ELXY250ELL821MK20S   CAP 820UF 25V   0.86
                                   ELECT LXY RAD 
3    P10272-ND   EEU-FC1E331L         CAP 330UF 25V   0.47
                                   ELECT FC RADIAL 
Subtotal $3.13

THANK YOU!
For this list. I have the same setup. It seems some people have different kinds 1, 2, 2 etc... I have the same 2x820 and 3x330. These worked great!

Thank you everyone for this info.

[JCThom]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have the same problem so I went out and bought replacement caps that correspond to the bad ones and I went ahead and bought a new soldering iron to do the job...

My problem is I can't desolder the bad caps from the pcb because the solder that's used to keep them in place won't melt AT ALL. I've tinned the tip of my soldering iron by coating it in a thin layer of solder as I heard that helps heat transfer and I've had my iron plugged in for around 15 minutes now but I STILL can't melt the solder on the PCB after holding the tip of my iron to it for 2-3 minutes. Keep in mind that I can melt the solder I bought within a matter of seconds.

Sucks pretty hard as not only have I wasted money buying a shitty monitor, but I've also wasted money on capacitors and a soldering iron.

Additional Info: The soldering iron is 30 watts.

Anyone else had this problem or know how I can fix it? Help appreciated.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have the same problem so I went out and bought replacement caps that correspond to the bad ones and I went ahead and bought a new soldering iron to do the job...

My problem is I can't desolder the bad caps from the pcb because the solder that's used to keep them in place won't melt AT ALL. I've tinned the tip of my soldering iron by coating it in a thin layer of solder as I heard that helps heat transfer and I've had my iron plugged in for around 15 minutes now but I STILL can't melt the solder on the PCB after holding the tip of my iron to it for 2-3 minutes. Keep in mind that I can melt the solder I bought within a matter of seconds.

Sucks pretty hard as not only have I wasted money buying a shitty monitor, but I've also wasted money on capacitors and a soldering iron.

Additional Info: The soldering iron is 30 watts.

Anyone else had this problem or know how I can fix it? Help appreciated.

30 watt is a little light for this work, but it should be possible to make it work. Hold the hot soldering iron tip on the point you want to unsolder, then melt a little new solder at the point the tip contacts the old solder. You're dealing with a heat transfer problem because the tip only contacts the solder pad at a very tiny point.

PlainBill

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hold the hot soldering iron tip on the point you want to unsolder, then melt a little new solder at the point the tip contacts the old solder.

I find that is key. Add a little 60/40 rosin core solder. Also, make sure the tip of your iron is clean.

It is also possible that the heating element on the 30W is dying too. I have a cheap ebay 30W and I can sense the heating element is dying.

Also, I find a solder sucker works better for me that solder wick to remove the solder.

[JCThom]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thank you two VERY VERY much! I will try your suggestion, Bill. Also, just a quick question. I am pretty damn sure it's a bad idea to take a 150 watt soldering gun to a PCB but the thought momentarily popped into my frustrated mind as I was trying to melt that damn solder joint... So my question is, if I can't get the joint to melt with my 30 watt iron, would taking my soldering GUN to it be a reasonable option?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

So my question is, if I can't get the joint to melt with my 30 watt iron, would taking my soldering GUN to it be a reasonable option?

I wouldn't do it myself. You could end up damaging the board with that much heat. Try adding a bit of 60/40 solder first.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thank you two VERY VERY much! I will try your suggestion, Bill. Also, just a quick question. I am pretty damn sure it's a bad idea to take a 150 watt soldering gun to a PCB but the thought momentarily popped into my frustrated mind as I was trying to melt that damn solder joint... So my question is, if I can't get the joint to melt with my 30 watt iron, would taking my soldering GUN to it be a reasonable option?

Reasonable option? probably not. More like a last resort. Many of the soldering guns have two heats. If that is truly the last resort, position the board so you can tip the cap to pop the lead out of the hole as soon as the solder melts. Then you can go back with the smaller iron to clear the hole.

PlainBill

[JCThom]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Still not working. Tried putting some solder between the solder joint and the tip of my iron to no avail. The solder I add seems to melt but I can't get it to melt all the way through enough for me to pop the leg of the capacitor out. I've also noticed that right around the joint it's a little blackened which I assume means I've already damaged the circuit board beyond repair. Good job samsuck!

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Tried putting some solder between the solder joint and the tip of my iron to no avail. The solder I add seems to melt

I add solder and then use my solder sucker to remove the solder. Obviously, I can't wiggle the cap since I don't have 3 hands, but that usually leaves a hole big enough that I can wiggle the cap out with just a little bit more heat.

If you are not using a solder sucker or wick to remove the solder, try that.

[JCThom]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thanks for the help. Quick question though, is the little bit of blackening on the circuit board around the soldering joint a sign of a broken PCB? In other words, if I see blackening around the solder joint on the PCB is it completely ruined?

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thanks for the help. Quick question though, is the little bit of blackening on the circuit board around the soldering joint a sign of a broken PCB? In other words, if I see blackening around the solder joint on the PCB is it completely ruined?

No. But be careful, the traces are very fragile if they lose their bond to the board.

PlainBill

[pedro]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thanks for the help. Quick question though, is the little bit of blackening on the circuit board around the soldering joint a sign of a broken PCB? In other words, if I see blackening around the solder joint on the PCB is it completely ruined?

Without a close-up pic it's hard to be definitive, but USUALLY what you are describing is just flux that has slightly carbonised due to excessive or repeated application of heat. If it is, you can CAREFULLY remove it with a small/pointed tool.

Your main problem though may well be that the iron is not heating sufficiently to melt the original lead-free solder. As an example, I use a Weller temp-controlled iron where the tip temp is determined by the Curie temp of the tip's core material. For normal tin-lead solder I use a 700F tip, but have to use an 800F tip for this RoHS crap.

They used to say "avoid bargains in parachutes and brain surgery." I guess we can probably add soldering irons there now that lead-free solder abounds.

[Freezer]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

My problem is I can't desolder the bad caps from the pcb because the solder that's used to keep them in place won't melt AT ALL.

I ran into this exact problem last week. I have a 45watt stick iron from Sears and it wouldn't melt at all for me. My friend is an electronics engineer so he came over with his soldering station. With the soldering station we fairly easily removed the caps. Without a doubt, the soldering station helped. But I don't think the soldering station got any hotter than my iron. We set the soldering station to about 660 F which is about the same, maybe even less than, what my stick iron would do. I think the two things that helped is 1) the soldering station has a much higher thermal return rate, so when it cools off touching the board it heats back up faster. 2) we added leaded solder to the joint first. The leaded solder mixes with the lead free solder and lowers the melting temperature... or so I'm told.

If you think you'll do any soldering work in the future, look into getting a soldering station. You can get an Aoyue 936 for about $40 from Amazon. I got a Hakko 936 and WOW that's awesome. Night and day difference!

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I think the two things that helped is 1) the soldering station has a much higher thermal return rate, so when it cools off touching the board it heats back up faster.

I saw this youtube video by CuriousInventor a couple of months ago when I was researching soldering irons.

"Soldering Iron Wattage vs. Temperature" 4 minutes and 44 seconds long.

http://www.youtube.com/user/CuriousI...36/Vh9pWu6K6tc

[SpecV]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have replaced 2 - 820uf, 3 - 330uf, and 1 47uf cap with equal values and my monitor is still acting just like it did before. The monitor will turn on for a second, flash "analog" in the top left corner, and turn right back off. The screen looks great for that split second, and then it turns off. I have tried restarting the computer along with messing with the menu, but I don't have enough to change any setting in the monitor.

Any suggestions?? I would hate to throw this monitor out!

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have replaced 2 - 820uf, 3 - 330uf, and 1 47uf cap with equal values and my monitor is still acting just like it did before. The monitor will turn on for a second, flash "analog" in the top left corner, and turn right back off. The screen looks great for that split second, and then it turns off. I have tried restarting the computer along with messing with the menu, but I don't have enough to change any setting in the monitor.

Any suggestions?? I would hate to throw this monitor out!

1. What caps did you use for replacements?

2. There are two general common problems we see on monitors. You don't give enough information to allow me to determine which you have. Does the power LED stay on when the monitor turns 'Off'?

PlainBill

[SpecV]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Digi-Key part numbers

565-1800-ND (2)
P10272-ND (3)
P10321-ND (1)

The LED does stay on when the monitor turns "off".

[JCThom]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Update: I finally managed to successfully replace the old capacitors with the new capacitors I bought off digikey. I hooked up my monitor, and what do you know. The EXACT same problem occurs. The screen lit up, displaying the windows XP starting screen in its full 22" glory and seconds later it shut off, destroying my hopes and dreams. I tried turning it on and off a few times as I did before and it still wouldn't work. The power button stays on, but the screen cuts off.

Now, to make matters even worse, I finally gave up and switched back to my previous monitor and hooked it up etc. only to see it do the SAME THING as the samsung syncmaster 225bw did. The only difference is it makes a hissing noise, the screen comes on, then it shuts off. Sometimes it will repeat this process one or two times after a minute or so has passed. It was working perfectly before I unconnected it from my computer and tried the syncmaster. Luckily I had a spare monitor lying around and that's what I'm using right now.

TLR replaced offending capacitors in samsung shitmaster, problem still occurs. Rehooked up my monitor I was using while waiting to fix the shitmaster and then it starts to have the same problem as well.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Update: I finally managed to successfully replace the old capacitors with the new capacitors I bought off digikey.

I don't think you ever posted what you purchased for replacement caps. Did you replace ALL the caps (big and small)?

Your problem is 2 seconds to black which means the issue is likely to be on the inverter board (assuming all the caps are good).

2 seconds to black is solvable, but you need time, patience, and a multimeter as a minimum. There are a number of things you can check like open fuse, shorted transistors, open windings on transformer, bad diodes, etc on the inverter board.