Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hey!
You've said "You need to verify the output voltages of the supply before going any further".

Check picofuse F301. A good fuse will measure less than 1.0 ohms.

PS. Those are excellent clear focused pics.

[joeblack111]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have to say thanks to the members of this forum. I have successfully repaired my 225BW by replacing the recommended caps. It was showing signs of failure and it's all good now.

Thanks!

[DominicWu]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have the rev. 2 board but ordered the rev. 1 parts and therefore am short the two 330uf. Should I proceed and use the 680uf that I did order instead?

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have the rev. 2 board but ordered the rev. 1 parts and therefore am short the two 330uf. Should I proceed and use the 680uf that I did order instead?

You have discovered two things:

1) That different revs of the same board can use a different design, which results in different parts being used. That's why it's important to verify the part values on your board to the parts list in the cap kit before you purchase.

2) You should not use the 680uf, since it's obvious that something on the board changed, which requires the 330's.

[DominicWu]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

You have discovered two things:

1) That different revs of the same board can use a different design, which results in different parts being used. That's why it's important to verify the part values on your board to the parts list in the cap kit before you purchase.

2) You should not use the 680uf, since it's obvious that something on the board changed, which requires the 330's.

What I figured as well though I was hoping against hope.

In this case, I now have 4 nice 680UF 25V free to a good home. On to order some more 330's from Digikey. The local Radio Shack only had 220s and 470s at 35V. I even rummaged through their misc. packs as well as opened up another dead 15" thinking I may get lucky. Lo and behold, no such luck. So the long weekend project will extend out to the rest of the week.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

What I figured as well though I was hoping against hope.

In this case, I now have 4 nice 680UF 25V free to a good home. On to order some more 330's from Digikey. The local Radio Shack only had 220s and 470s at 35V. I even rummaged through their misc. packs as well as opened up another dead 15" thinking I may get lucky. Lo and behold, no such luck. So the long weekend project will extend out to the rest of the week.

It could extend a lot longer if you are in the habit of using caps from Radio Shack. Just like a bad penny, the monitors will be coming back to you.

PlainBill

[DominicWu]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Sadly, Radio Shack is all that's left locally here in the area of Sunny Southern California where one can go for parts. Gone are the Mar Vacs and oh, what's the name of the other store... Fry's an hour round trip away and it was too close to lunch.

Without a dedicated work bench and little ones running around, I've decided to replace what I can (2 bulging 820UFs and 2 bulding 330UFs) and button it up. The blinking has gone away and the 225BW is limping with one bulging 330UF still remained to be replaced.

[DominicWu]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Holy smokes, the P14415-ND that I just bought qty. 2 of last week is now back ordered until 11/10/2011. Guess I'll have to order 565-1547-ND instead.

[DominicWu]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hey!
You've said "You need to verify the output voltages of the supply before going any further". I need some hardware for that I'm sure. I hate radioshack, hopefully I can get that elsewhere...

Here are the requested pics:


What do you think? Are any other components toasted?

Since this is just what I'm working on, I don't know if anyone else has pointed out I believe the color labeling of your connectors are incorrect (at least different than my factory connection). On mine, immediately after I disassembled it for the first time, the light blue leads are towards the outside top and bottom, and pink are on the inside.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Since this is just what I'm working on, I don't know if anyone else has pointed out I believe the color labeling of your connectors are incorrect (at least different than my factory connection). On mine, immediately after I disassembled it for the first time, the light blue leads are towards the outside top and bottom, and pink are on the inside.

I always try to reconnect them in the original pattern, but usually that is not a problem. While I understand there are a few exceptions, in most monitors all CCFLs are the same length.

PlainBill

[Wolvenmoon]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hey guys,

So I was about to pull the trigger on an ebay auction for a set of caps to try to repair my 225BW, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123 , I've been working on this on another forum, http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?p=4497427

I'm a novice with a soldering iron, but I'm hesitant about getting bad caps. I'm a bit inundated with information at the moment. Should I bother ordering from this guy on ebay? If not, where and could someone point down exactly what?

These are the pictures of my board:
http://www.wolvenmoon.com/sharedfiles/caps1.jpg (Bottom right)
http://www.wolvenmoon.com/sharedfiles/caps2.jpg

I see digikey highly recommended here. I've never been able to figure out their site when I go there and I always get really nervous. If the ebay auction is a bit too iffy, could anyone give me direct links to what I need to order so that it'll fit? Seeing all of the model numbers in the first part of the thread has me kind of nervous about ordering the wrong thing.

I'll be cross posting what I order into the other forum thread for google's sake. (That's how I found this site)

I know it's obnoxious to have the newb come in and go 'do the gruntwork for me', I'll make sure to pass it on.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

So I was about to pull the trigger on an ebay auction for a set of caps to try to repair my 225BW, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123 ,

Hmm, $14 USD total including shipping to Canada. Let's see how that compares to DIY.

I'm a novice with a soldering iron,

Best soldering video on youtube is by CuriousInventor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

I'm a bit inundated with information at the moment.

In the "teach a man to fish and you feed him for life" category, see

PCBONEZ talks about how to choose the right series at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...47&postcount=3

and

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...30&postcount=7

PlainBill gives instructions on how to order Panasonic FM and FC caps at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...33&postcount=2

FR is a newer version of FM.

These are the pictures of my board:
http://www.wolvenmoon.com/sharedfiles/caps1.jpg (Bottom right)
http://www.wolvenmoon.com/sharedfiles/caps2.jpg

We prefer them attached to this forum. See my sig file below on instructions.

I see digikey highly recommended here.

Digikey, mouser, or Badcaps.net store are all good choices.

I know it's obnoxious to have the newb come in and go 'do the gruntwork for me', I'll make sure to pass it on.

In the "give a man a fish and you feed him for a day" category ...

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...25v+fr&stock=1

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P14422-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...25v+fm&stock=1

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P10321-ND

Total 3.88 + about 2.50 USD shipping

$6.38 USD Total

Double check to ensure the cap values match yours in terms of uF, voltage, and that they fit (diameter and height).

So by DIY, you pay almost half of what it would cost. In fact, the sellers on ebay are making more than that because they buy caps in the 100s, not in the 1s.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hey guys,

So I was about to pull the trigger on an ebay auction for a set of caps to try to repair my 225BW, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123 , I've been working on this on another forum, http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?p=4497427

I'm a novice with a soldering iron, but I'm hesitant about getting bad caps. I'm a bit inundated with information at the moment. Should I bother ordering from this guy on ebay? If not, where and could someone point down exactly what?

These are the pictures of my board:
http://www.wolvenmoon.com/sharedfiles/caps1.jpg (Bottom right)
http://www.wolvenmoon.com/sharedfiles/caps2.jpg

I see digikey highly recommended here. I've never been able to figure out their site when I go there and I always get really nervous. If the ebay auction is a bit too iffy, could anyone give me direct links to what I need to order so that it'll fit? Seeing all of the model numbers in the first part of the thread has me kind of nervous about ordering the wrong thing.

I'll be cross posting what I order into the other forum thread for google's sake. (That's how I found this site)

I know it's obnoxious to have the newb come in and go 'do the gruntwork for me', I'll make sure to pass it on.

There are several issues here, let's address them 1 at a time.
1. Are these the proper caps for your monitor? You can determine that - he lists the value and voltage of the caps he is selling so you can easily check.
2. Are these good caps? I can't be sure; he doesn't specify the series, but there is a good chance he is supplying low ESR caps.
3. Is his price good? Well, it's pretty good - but he's making a dollar or two for something you can do yourself.

Let's do a comparison, it'll take only a few minutes.

The table below shows the values, the cost of Panasonic FM caps, the cost of Nichicon

2 ea 820uF, 25V $1.50 $1.40
2 ea 680uF, 25V $1.34 $1.38
1 ea 330uF, 25V $.50 $.45
1 ea 47uF, 50V $.34 $.48

Using Panasonic FM or FC as appropriate, the caps will cost $3.68; shipping will add $2.50 You will save about $5.00, but I wouldn't say the guy on eBay is ripping you off.

Somewhere around is a process for selecting caps I have written. Someone smarter than I came up with the one below.

From the home page at Digi-Key enter 820uF 25V FM, then click Go. That brings up the quantities, cost and availability of all 820uF, 25 volt Panasonic FM caps. Select the one you want, click on it. On the next page enter the quantity you want, click on Add To Order. At the top of the next page enter the value for the next cap, and repeat the same steps.

PlainBill

[Wolvenmoon]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Sorry about the images, I am not seeing my edit button. I think the 'new member' group is preventing me from getting to the post.

Thanks guys, this helps a lot. Yes these are the proper caps for my monitor. I'm assuming out loud so you guys can correct me that the white stripe with the dashes through it signify negative polarity? (In the pictures, they're the sides of the capacitor mounts with the thicker line at the bottom)

Any advice on desoldering wick? http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...1311239&k=wick Radio shack's stuff doesn't have flux on it anymore, so I figured I'd look on digikey, was easy as 1-2-confusion! I tend to prefer lead free stuff, barring solder itself, which I'll get over for one use.

I found this really basic guide to using wick, http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm my solder sucker kicks much too hard to use on anything small. (It's radioshack too...I'm glad I didn't buy any of their braid)

Also, would it be completely stupid to - after seeing that video - take some sandpaper to my radio shack (lol) soldering iron tip to take the top layer of oxidation off, then tin it, and pretend nothing happened?

Thanks!

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I am not seeing my edit button.

The edit button times out after 30 minutes.

I'm assuming out loud so you guys can correct me that the white stripe with the dashes through it signify negative polarity?

Yes. However, you should take orientation pictures to ensure they are put back correctly. I do one at a time and double check my work before proceeding to the next cap.

I believe one motherboard manufacturer goes against this convention and does it the opposite.

Any advice on desoldering wick?

My only experience with wick is "sort by lowest price ebay" stuff and it is horrible. I'm sure if I spent more money and got some quality wick it would work fine.

On the other hand, my "sort by lowest price ebay" desolder pump works great. I have used the desolder pump on about 20 monitors and it is still working fine.

The local store wanted $30 CDN while the ebay price was around $3 CDN (including shipping).

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Sorry about the images, I am not seeing my edit button. I think the 'new member' group is preventing me from getting to the post.

Thanks guys, this helps a lot. Yes these are the proper caps for my monitor. I'm assuming out loud so you guys can correct me that the white stripe with the dashes through it signify negative polarity? (In the pictures, they're the sides of the capacitor mounts with the thicker line at the bottom)

Any advice on desoldering wick? http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...1311239&k=wick Radio shack's stuff doesn't have flux on it anymore, so I figured I'd look on digikey, was easy as 1-2-confusion! I tend to prefer lead free stuff, barring solder itself, which I'll get over for one use.

I found this really basic guide to using wick, http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm my solder sucker kicks much too hard to use on anything small. (It's radioshack too...I'm glad I didn't buy any of their braid)

Also, would it be completely stupid to - after seeing that video - take some sandpaper to my radio shack (lol) soldering iron tip to take the top layer of oxidation off, then tin it, and pretend nothing happened?

Thanks!

There are a number of ways to remove the old caps. I start by making up a hand drawn sketch showing the location and value of each cap. As I pull them I will verify orientation.

I have a 20th century 40 watt iron and a 20th century dissecting pick. I heat one pin, tilt the cap as far in the opposite direction as possible, heat the other pin, tilt the cap back, which usually releases that pin, heat the original lead and the cap drops out, hopefully not in my lap. Then I heat up each pad with the soldering iron and jam the dissecting pick into the hole to displace the solder. One the solder cools, I pull the pick and move on to the next hole.

Before soldering anything in, I verify all holes are clear. Then it's a matter of starting with the smallest caps and working up to the largest. After everything is soldered in I double check orientation, trim the leads, scrub the board with a toothbrush dipped in rubbing alcohol, and let the board dry.

At that point I usually hook the boards together loosely (fasten each in place with 1 grounding screw), say a prayer to the God Faraday and plug in the power cord. If nothing goes bang, and there is no smell of smoke I open my eyes and see if the monitor is working.

PlainBill

[JaimeK63]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have three Samsung Syncmaster 225BW monitors. There are:
2 680uf 25V
3 330uF 25V (although one is shorter than the other two.
1 47uF 50V

All the kits I have and ordered and threads out there I find say about there being 2 820uF 25V. Do I replace the 680 with 820?

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have three Samsung Syncmaster 225BW monitors. There are:
2 680uf 25V
3 330uF 25V (although one is shorter than the other two.
1 47uF 50V

All the kits I have and ordered and threads out there I find say about there being 2 820uF 25V. Do I replace the 680 with 820?

Are the caps original, or had someone already replaced them? Frequently we will see the same model monitor built with different power supplies.

PlainBill

[JaimeK63]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Ordered them new. The boards are different in each one (even though same model) but both of them have the 680uF. That's why I'm so puzzled that everyone else has the 820.

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Probably a different revision of the same power supply. That's why it's so important to verify the cap values against the list of the capacitor kit before ordering. Not unusual for them to differ a bit. Don't sub the 820 for the 680.