ASUS ProArt Display PA278CV

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  • aggadaway
    New Member
    • Nov 2018
    • 4
    • Italia

    #1

    ASUS ProArt Display PA278CV

    Hello all,

    I'm looking for some help with an ASUS ProArt Display PA278CV that's no longer working after a lightning strike. The graphics card connected to it also failed, which points to some sort of surge.

    The monitor powers up and the on-screen display (OSD) menu works perfectly fine. However, it displays a "No Signal" message regardless of whether I use the HDMI or DisplayPort inputs. Since the menu system is functional, I suspect the issue is with the input circuitry rather than the main power supply or the display panel itself. I've already tested the power section, and it seems okay.

    The main board looks fairly simple, and the primary IC is a Realtek RTD2788m. I believe this chip, which acts as the video scaler and controller, might be the source of the problem. Unfortunately, I'm having a lot of trouble finding any technical information, like a datasheet, or a reliable place to purchase a replacement.

    Has anyone had experience with a similar issue on this monitor or other ASUS ProArt models? Specifically, I'm looking for:
    • A datasheet or service manual for the RTD2788m IC.
    • A reputable source to buy a new or used RTD2788m.

    Any guidance or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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  • CapLeaker
    Leaking Member
    • Dec 2014
    • 8261
    • Canada

    #2
    That wouldn’t be your only concern. You also need to get the chip off and the new chip back on the board, then program it too! I think you are better off just finding a replacement board for $50-60 bucks on fleabay etc and get a used board and just replace it. Also ASUS has a genuine parts store. At this price point not worth the effort.

    Comment

    • aggadaway
      New Member
      • Nov 2018
      • 4
      • Italia

      #3
      Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it! That's a great point about the programming.. i wasn't aware that the new RTD2788m chip would need to be programmed.

      I hadn't found any datasheets for it, so I assumed the chip would just work once soldered on, with all its "instructions" coming from the Winbond serial flash.

      Given that, your suggestion to find a replacement board is probably the most practical and cost-effective solution

      Comment

      • CapLeaker
        Leaking Member
        • Dec 2014
        • 8261
        • Canada

        #4
        Could be… but stil… for a cheap board, why creating yourself a headache. This story would be different, if there are no replacement boards…
        But for a $50 board, not worth the hassle.

        Comment

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