I would replace all the caps except the big one for best results.
You do not say which ceramic cap you mean - it is not marked on the picture.
Perhaps you do not mean ceramic cap? very small fawn/brown ones.
Do you mean the solid polymer C551 - the vent may look a little raised but
cant really tell from the angle.
If the top is bulged then yes, replace it also - are there any others the same size on the board you can compare?
I have the classic "will not turn on for prolongued periods of time" and decided to replace caps. Three 1000uF caps on the power supply are bulging. This also seems to be rather common. I am unsure about one of the capacitors on the controller board. I took a picture of it. What do you think, should I replace that as well?
I haven't read the specifics of the ebay seller's listing, but ebay does offer a buyer protection program for most purchases. Of course, you have to give the seller a chance to refund your money, but if that falls through, then you should be able to open a dispute through ebay and get them involved.
I finally wore down and purchased the new power supply on ebay. It was getting frustrating not having the skillset to properly diagnose (and repair) my board, even with the great help from you all. In the end I spent about $180 to get it back. And, no, in a financial sense it may not have been the best decision, but I am concious of the environment and I felt better about salvaging what I consider a great looking and nicely spec'd monitor as opposed to sending it to a landfill.
I'm not sure how to handle it with the eBay person who "rebuilt" my board for $50. He's got 100% positive feedback and I hate to be the one who changes that, but it obviously wasn't working when I got it back from him and he doesn't take returns. I'll probably send him an email explaining the problem and see if he tries to do the right thing. If he's willing to make an adjustment I won't ding his rep. Though I am a bit concerned he'll want to take another look at it and then blame it on the 450v capacitor I replaced on the board and had the use blow.
Once again, thank you all for being so generous with your time and expertise. You guys were patient with someone who was willing but not experienced and I really appreciate it. I hope I can pay it forward with someone else in an area where I can help.
Personally I would blame the guy on eBay for his so-called cap "service" that claimed a nonworking PSU was working when he had it, then not working when it arrived back to you.
That was my original thought when the seller didn't replace all the capacitors on the board.
Personally I would blame the guy on eBay for his so-called cap "service" that claimed a nonworking PSU was working when he had it, then not working when it arrived back to you.
There is a difference between a "service" an an actual part. Checking out the seller he sells only Samsung parts and has a 100% positive feedback. (pro) But he only has 27 feedbacks, and says the part cannot be returned under any circumstances. (con)
I'm inclined to agree with jetadm that the best value for that kind of money is a new one. Plus, as he said, you get the warranty. I just checked Newegg and they have a nice selection of 24" monitors for under $200. Brand New.
I'm fairly sure the $106 power supply would probably make it work again. But for how long? What next? A lamp, an inverter? You are most likely going to get the most LCD hours for your money from a new one. ~L-J-7~
P.S. We can keep trying to fix this power board also. But if you are looking to spend $200, get a NEW ONE
Based on your experiences with eBay thus far, I would stay away from buying the $100 power supply and $200 for a 244T. The only reason the supply is $100 is because they are hard to come by. Still, it's way overpriced for a supply. The $200 for a used working 244T would be taking boards from a working monitor and putting them into your Sun? Where's the logic in that? I say take that $200 and combine it with some additional cash and go buy a new monitor. No risks as with buying used stuff and you get a warranty to boot.
I think I'm about ready to raise the white flag here. I've cashed in a great amount of goodwill from you guys and have spent $50 for a questionable board rebuild, and $30 today for more capacitors and a solder pump, and have nothing more to show than a burned smell in my shop.
If I could ask your opinion on a couple more things.
1. There's a "new, open box" power supply on ebay. Would you trust it and/or spend another $110 for one?
2. There's a Samsung 244T 24" on ebay for $200, which uses, I believe, the identical boards. Would you gamble on either?
3. Or would you keep plugging along here?
Ok, I just returned home from the electronics supply store and replaced the large cap (100uf450v). When I powered it up there was a noisy vibrating sound and the removable fuse blew.
I just shocked myself reaching across the board. When I touch the red probe to the ground lug on the board and the black probe to the top of the wide heat sink at the middle bottom of the board I get a VDC reading of 63v.
The heatsinks are likely live on the hot side. See that big black line outlining the board with the word "hot". Anything you touch inside that area is may/likely to cause serious damage.
Ok, news flash. I just shocked myself reaching across the board. When I touch the red probe to the ground lug on the board and the black probe to the top of the wide heat sink at the middle bottom of the board I get a VDC reading of 63v. What's up here?
Bud, I just pulled the skinny circuit board off the front bezel and hooked it up to the wire harness in photo #1. However, when I depress the power button I still don't get any of the LED lighting up to signal status.
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