Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Ah - found an EEPROM
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download...ips_f4238.html
For a Toshiba but 17MB22 chassis.
32" Goodmans TV
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Ugghhh!
I was a doofus, I bought a power supply for this TV, didn't read the description - sold as faulty!
Thought it was too good to be true for £10.
Although I will still try to get it working - maybe the fault is similar or easier to fix than this one.
Also - note to self - I need to reflash the eeprom with the original data, maybe it's not booting because of this?Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Okay, I reversed my fix to the TV with pin #8. Now the LED doesn't blink, but we're back to the original issue: it just won't turn on. I had a little difficulty with the circuit, I broke a resistor off the board (R970), but I looked the schematic and it looks redundant to me, so I bridged it. I might replace it later and see if it matters, but I don't think it will.
One pin to look at is SHUTD, as it appears to turn the power supply off. I suspect it must be low to do so. The resistor R970 then might be necessary as it stops the PSU from being held in shutdown while the cap C898 charges. But if we stop the PSU shutting down by removing the transistor which is pulling it down, we might never be able to turn the TV off properly... Ugh! A new PSU is a simple answer, if the main board is good.
Now, we have to debug the slow start circuit and find out why it stops the TV starting properly. Perhaps some protection is activating; if so, why?
I'm most interested in the transistor Q818 as that seems to handle switching the TV on and off, although the switching on and off is also handled by other parts, so it's like everything has to activate in sequence, maybe this was the problem?
There's a lot of protection in this circuit. VFB and Q808 seems to be overvoltage for the 12V rail, tripping on 15V or so. Not bad at all, a good idea in fact. If the caps are aged, the rail might be peaking. So I could look at inhibiting this. Also interesting is the stuff around 5VREF; maybe an undervoltage cut-out?
Problem is, this stuff is all primary side. So I can't probe it with a scope as I risk damaging it. Unless I broke the ground pin off the plug but that is very much frowned upon (and rightly so) as it leaves the chassis of the scope LIVE, and dangerous. I'm limited to a 3 Hz multimeter.
I've attached a screenshot of the part of the circuit we are interested in.Last edited by tom66; 07-25-2011, 05:02 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Here's the EEPROM .hex I looked at it and it seems okay, I mean there is data in there like the channel settings (BBC, CH4 etc.) but I have no way of decoding the rest.
I'm going to try erasing it and seeing if it resets it, I doubt it though. [EDIT: Nope, still dead.]
To get around file size limits I had to rename this to a .doc file.
I'm really questioning what part has gone in this set... it's EITHER the PSU or the main board. Right now it's looking a lot like the main board but what would cause this? Software issue? Hardware issue?Attached FilesLast edited by tom66; 07-25-2011, 08:09 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
I think I found one for a Goodmans TV available, anyway it's the main board which decides the "personality" of the set so if it boots up as a Hitachi who cares :PLeave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Got it.
STBY - 1V7~1V8
RUN - 332mV
Good idea with the EEPROM, but I reckon you will have to be certain the replacement board comes from the same manuf./model else it will prob be useless - although I stand to be corrected.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
I'm wondering if your mod around IC807 may have something to do with it now. If you want me to give you some ref. V's from the PSU just let me know what test points and I'll post them here.
I did search for the .bin file a couple of weeks ago but those things are almost non-existant on the web.
If I get a good, working board in, I'll copy the eeprom and post it here for future users.Last edited by tom66; 07-24-2011, 05:20 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
I'm wondering if your mod around IC807 may have something to do with it now. If you want me to give you some ref. V's from the PSU just let me know what test points and I'll post them here.
I did search for the .bin file a couple of weeks ago but those things are almost non-existant on the web.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Most of my voltages look out of spec, apart from standby.
Maybe it's worth buying a main board and selling the board on if it doesn't fix the problem. I don't stand to lose much as long as I can sell it.
AFAIK my PICkit 2 (microcontroller programmer) can program EEPROMs. I may take the EEPROM out and reflash it. Any idea where to find a .bin file for it?Last edited by tom66; 07-24-2011, 03:11 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
The bold values in my last post are what I'm getting on my board, but they are all very close to or the same as the values indicated in the Sanyo training manual.
Also am I correct in assuming you listed your wires the wrong way round on your PL813/Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Right, to start with you should only have a few outputs from PSU to M/b @ STBY:
PL805:
#10 - 3V37
#11 - ^
#12 - 5V07
And from M/b to PSU @ STBY:
PL803;
#5 - 62mV
#6 - 1V74
#7 - 32V2
All other pins remain low until TV is started either by RC or side button. M/b (VCTP) then initiates STBY_ON_OFF output to PSU, PL804#6 goes low and all other V's (3.3, 5, 12, 24, 34) are then present. Next PL803#1/PL802#12 goes high to start inverter/backlight.
So now @ RUN:
PL801:
pin #1 - NC
pin #2 - NC
pin #3 - NC
pin #4 - 24V3
pin #5 - ^
pin #6 - GND
pin #7 - ^
pin #8 - NC
pin #9 - NC
pin #10 - NC
PL802:
pin #1 - 24V3
pin #2 - ^
pin #3 - ^
pin #4 - ^
pin #5 - ^
pin #6 - GND
pin #7 - ^
pin #8 - ^
pin #9 - ^
pin #10 - NC
pin #11 - 2V46
pin #12 - 3V01 ~ 2V92
PL803:
pin #1 - 3V01 ~ 2V92
pin #2 - 2V47
pin #3 -
pin #4 -
pin #5 - 2V56
pin #6 - 56mV
pin #7 - 33V9
pin #8 - 12V1
pin #9 - GND
pin #10 - ^
PL812:
pin #1 - 5V1
pin #2 - ^
pin #3 - 3V36
pin #4 - ^
pin #5 - ^
pin #6 - GND
pin #7 - ^
pin #8 - ^
pin #9 - ^
pin #10 - 3V34
pin #11 - ^
pin #12 - 5V04
PL813:
pin #1 - GND
pin #2 - ^
pin #3 - 12V1
pin #4 - ^Last edited by dumpystig; 07-24-2011, 11:04 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
We have the same boards but somewhat different connections. Can you post a close up pic of your PSU socket area (with plugs connected) and I'll be more able to make a comparison - I can get a better idea when I can compare positions of wires of a particular colour. CheersLeave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
PL801:
pin #1 - NC
pin #2 - NC
pin #3 - NC
pin #4 - 10.5V (jumps from 9.5V - 11.5V)
pin #5 - 10.5V (jumps from 9.5V - 11.5V)
pin #6 - 0.001V
pin #7 - 0.001V
pin #8 - NC
pin #9 - NC
pin #10 - NC
PL802:
pin #1 - 10.5V (jumps from 9.5V - 11.5V)
pin #2 - 10.5V (jumps from 9.5V - 11.5V)
pin #3 - 10.5V (jumps from 9.5V - 11.5V)
pin #4 - 10.5V (jumps from 9.5V - 11.5V)
pin #5 - 10.5V (jumps from 9.5V - 11.5V)
pin #6 - 0.001V
pin #7 - 0.001V
pin #8 - 0.001V
pin #9 - 0.005V
pin #10 - NC
pin #11 - 0.001V
pin #12 - 0.004V
PL803:
pin #1 - 0V
pin #2 - 0V
pin #3 - 0.1V
pin #4 - 0V
pin #5 - 0.06V
pin #6 - 1.76V
pin #7 - 24.32V (decays slowly - tuner bias voltage?)
pin #8 - 3.34V
pin #9 - 0V
pin #10 - 0V
PL812:
pin #1 - 1.85V
pin #2 - 1.85V
pin #3 - 0V
pin #4 - 0V
pin #5 - 0V
pin #6 - 0V
pin #7 - 0V
pin #8 - 0V
pin #9 - 0V
pin #10 - 3.34V
pin #11 - 3.34V
pin #12 - 5.08V
PL813:
pin #1 - 3.5V (moves slowly between 3V and 4V)
pin #2 - 3.5V (moves slowly between 3V and 4V)
pin #3 - 0V
pin #4 - 0VLeave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Yeah, it's not meant to power on until either RC or side buttons are used... odd. How about we both post a list of all V's we have @ PSU PL connectors - both STBY and RUN if possible?Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Yea, I am. I'm trying to override the signal from the VCTP using the 220 ohm (to prevent damage to the IC.) I'm able to get it to stick in standby and the VCTP seems happy with it. Then when I ask it to exit standby and go to RUN mode, it starts flashing again.Leave a comment:
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Re: 32" Goodmans TV
Hmm. Yes, I know that the VCTP is powering the set on/off. The issue I'm having is it starts doing this as soon as power is plugged in. Trying to turn itself on. It never used to do that...Leave a comment:
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