Yeah, it is a very good standard, the plugs/sockets are polarized and are very safe especially compared to the basic plugs used in most of Europe.
The only drawback is the size/shape of the plug - it's very awkward and makes it hard work when packing in a small case for a portable device.
Carefully prise the cap from the board and adhesive - it shouldn't take much effort. Use a blunt piece of wood - ice lolly stick is ideal - to remove adhesive from board. Then desolder the cap and remove it. It's not imperative to use more adhesive on the replacement cap, although I use a hot-glue gun.
The cap you referenced should be fine as a replacement.
The board in the pic is not the board I'm working on - I borrowed the pic from another thread. It's purely to illustrate where it is.
My board has the flying lead connected on the back but no cap attached.
When the cap is connected to the board one cap leg (-/+?) is soldered to the flying lead/rear of board. The other cap leg (-/+?) is connected to the board(-)
I simply need to know which cap leg connects to the thro' hole which is highlighted in the pic. So if someone is working on the same board please...
Thanks, but that's not the problem. This cap was a later (manual) addition to some of these boards. The markings are obvious on the board - within the circular cap footprint the (+) is at the bottom but with no connection. The 'added' cap is connected to the board(-) but I'm not sure if it's the cap(+) or cap(-) that goes to the board(-)
You need to replace and install the 450V cap before going any further with troubleshooting. You may find it was the only fault and your monitor will work fine afterwards.
Looking at the silkscreen rectangle and the glue within I reckon the (now) vertical cap is a replacement for the original that was horizontal and flat to the board - that would explain the burn on the board and the scorched resistor (which probably isn't damaged) due to the cap doing a nice fizzle.
Edit - In fact from what I can see the cap doesn't look as though it's physically big enough to replace the original, at least judging by the amount of glue and the silkscreen footprint, so may even be a different/incorrect value.
The seller lists the numbers for the board, just compare with yours and see if they match.
I also copied his pic and then zoomed in a little, just to do a quick visual comparison.
If you detail exactly what happens with your monitor after you press the Power button I can let you know if it's behaving the same as mine was. It may help to give you a more definite pointer to it being the Logic board.
eBay - a seller in Canada. I didn't come across a single one anywhere else after tons of searching. Here's a link to the same board up for sale right now -
2nd pic, board @ top left. A 'couple' of joints won't suffice. Re-flow all the larger, heavier joints starting from the brown and blue wires that enter the board @ bottom left, follow the traces from there re-flowing as you go, and make sure you do both sides of the transformers. When re-flowing add a tiny amount of new solder to each joint.
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