Hello,
I repaired PSU 2or3 years ago(no power at all), as I can remember I just replaced diode D22.
Monitor worked again perfectly until today.
Now problem is different, lower 1/4 of LCD does not work (black or low light stripe lines on that area, see pic).
Any idea what could be wrong?
Thanx.
Hello, I have a similar fault on a 3008wfp, where the power light goes on then off and just a blank screen, I have check D22 and it tests ok with meter, but change it anyway to no avail,somebody somewhere has got the circuit diagram of this monster.
I have the same problem with my Dell 3008WFP monitor suspect the power supply is faulty but I am a novice at component level repair any help would be appreciated. I have attached some pictures of the board front and back. Grrr why does it only allow me to upload one file?????
Hello..I received faulty DELL 3008 WFP from ebay ..but psu is damaged too much ..somebody learn how to soldering...but me HP ZR30w 30" Widescreen IPS LCD Monitor have same lcd panel LM300WQ5..so i fix lcd panel from dell to hp but look on picture..is lcd display also faulty? i also swap lvds cable and 2 working boards from hp zr30w..but only vertical lines.
I took pics of everything upon dismantling, both sides of all PCB's if anyone would like a look, and any input welcome as to what could possibly have caused fuse F1 to blow.
It was working and went off as I was using it.
I have a decent multimeter with diode setting but I cant remember how u put a charge on the diode with the meter to open it, so readings are taken on Auto Ohms setting with 1st diagram "+" to centre leg and 2nd diagram "-" to centre leg.
I've ordered an STMicroelectronics STPS60170CT to upgrade and replace D22 even though I think the original (STPS30120C) is OK based on the symptoms like the power LED and backlight working, but I don't really know too much about these Schottkey things or how to properly test them. I got it from LittleDiode.com in UK who have an ebay shop and their own website and cost a mighty £4.19 inc delivery.
I pulled it all apart fairly rapidly (bezel comes off easy if u have it screen side up and get your fingertips between where the bezel meets the screen and twist up the long sides up and away from the screen, then do the short sides and it all just falls apart).
Also I pulled the bezel away enough so I could take the 3 tiny screws out that hold the 6 button front control panel PCB to the back of the bezel and removed the control PCB that way, as the cable is stuck down and looked like it could get damaged on disassembly.
A soldering iron on the ferrite on the diode leg for a few seconds melts the glue and it slides right off.
Surprisingly all caps look 100% perfect, not a bulge or leak in sight.
Anyone have a part number for F1 or know what type fuse it is?
Also if anyone is out there, any idea where these 4 sprung plastic rivet things in the pic go.
Well the parts arrived this morning and replacing fuse T1 on the T-Con PCB worked. I also replaced D22 with the 170V version just for kicks.
Couldn't work out where those sprung plastic rivets came from, but I'm just thinking of the weight saving if I have to pull it off the wall again.
It is part of a multi monitor setup so would've been a pain not getting it working again.
If anyone stumbles across this heres a tip.
REMOVE THE FRONT BEZEL WITH THE SCREEN SIDE UP!
Get your fingertips between the bezel and the LCD panel and thumbs on the outside edge and pull the bezel up and backwards towards yourself, starting at long edges first then work on the short edges.
This way it really is a 5 minute job to get the bezel off.
Once the bezel is free u can lift the monitor upright and resting it on its bottom edge put a screwdriver between the back cover and the SD card slots module area and ease the BACK cover over the SD card module.
The front panel button assy comes off from the bezel rear with 3 tiny screws so u can remove it from the cable.
On reassembly screw the button panel back on the bezel first then its so easy to reconnect the cable to the PCB before putting the back cover on again.
PART NUMBERS:
D22: STPS60170CT DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 2X30A, 170V
I've got a Dell 3007 (not 3008) wfp display here that I think is acting the same way a few of yours are.
If I plug it in, it turns on and starts running through a pattern displaying several colours and brightness levels. No buttons are responsive. I think the blue light turns on but it maybe is off after it gets turned on? I forget.
As soon as I plug a source cable into it, it seems to power off, screen is blank and buttons still don't respond.
This sound like the typical fuse issue?
I've got a second one of these here so I can do some parts swapping to help troubleshoot. Both of these monitors have a zillion hours on them but seem pretty nice still.
here's another instance of that pesky cable isolation crumbling, that cable became a real powder supply, everything's dirty ...
Even one connector got so brittle that it broke ! The real wonder here is that it almost worked until yesterday, when slamming
it hard didn't work out anymore. Practically all wires are shorted ! Apart from the isolation powder, there fell out 4 plastic stands,
but only 3 springs .., I think I have to start worrying about that ... Already buyed some 18 strands x 0.1mm wire to rebuild that
cable, I've to solder them directly to the board where the connector is broken. Got the wiring diagram, so we'll see what happens
next. Hope that will fix the intermittent darkness, as that was always fixable by a hard slam until now. Of course, checking solder
joints is on my list, too.
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