Samsung Syncmaster 214T

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  • r3z0nate
    Member
    • Oct 2011
    • 11

    #21
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

    Thanks for the link. I had been searching just for the model number and never saw this information. It looks like I possibly need to replace the large capacitor and/or some of the diodes. I'll have to double check with another multimeter to make sure. The diodes overload on both ends and the cap barely holds what it should



    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    1) 2 seconds to black can be

    a) bad caps
    b) bad inverter transformer
    c) bad ccfl and/or wiring

    All are discussed in more detail in posts #13 and #14 at

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419

    Comment

    • baxtex
      New Member
      • Jan 2012
      • 3

      #22
      Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

      My 214T flickers at start and then goes black with the greenpower light on like for most of the other users on this thread.

      The difference i have from other users with similar behaviour is that if i unplug and replug in the DVI cable few-to-serveral times (i suppose until the monitor heat up) the monitor stays on with no flaws of sort for very long period of time.

      If i switch it off while is hot i have no problems with flickering as long as i put it back on before it cools down.

      Is it possible that the casue is the same capacitors ? or maybe the startup capacitor (i have read somehwere there is also a startup capacitor but i stuggle to identify which one it is ?

      Should i open it up and see if any capacitor is bulging ?
      Last edited by baxtex; 01-24-2012, 08:40 AM.

      Comment

      • PlainBill
        Badcaps Legend
        • Feb 2009
        • 7034
        • USA

        #23
        Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

        Originally posted by baxtex
        My 214T flickers at start and then goes black with the greenpower light on like for most of the other users on this thread.

        The difference i have from other users with similar behaviour is that if i unplug and replug in the DVI cable few-to-serveral times (i suppose until the monitor heat up) the monitor stays on with no flaws of sort for very long period of time.

        If i switch it off while is hot i have no problems with flickering as long as i put it back on before it cools down.

        Is it possible that the casue is the same capacitors ? or maybe the startup capacitor (i have read somehwere there is also a startup capacitor but i stuggle to identify which one it is ?

        Should i open it up and see if any capacitor is bulging ?
        Yes.

        PlainBill
        For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

        Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

        Comment

        • baxtex
          New Member
          • Jan 2012
          • 3

          #24
          Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

          Originally posted by PlainBill
          Yes.

          PlainBill
          I got around to find the time to open the monitor and actually 4 out of the 5 caps are bulgin (one of them is also slightly cracked).

          I have never done any soldering work, but i am going to give it a try tonight and replace the 5 caps with the ones reccomended at the beginning of this thread. I will then post photos and if it did work or not (or if i bricked the PCB :P )

          Comment

          • retiredcaps
            Badcaps Legend
            • Apr 2010
            • 9271

            #25
            Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

            Originally posted by baxtex
            I have never done any soldering work,
            An excellent soldering video by CuriousInventor at

            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

            and

            https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=485
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            Comment

            • baxtex
              New Member
              • Jan 2012
              • 3

              #26
              Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

              The repair was succesful, many thanks for the help!

              Comment

              • GerryAttrick
                New Member
                • Aug 2013
                • 3
                • New Zealand

                #27
                Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

                Originally posted by retiredcaps
                Unless there are signs of someone opening up the monitors previously, I would replace the caps with the same uF per board.

                Assuming these are the correct dimensions ...

                For 820 use Panasonic FM at

                http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12391-ND

                For the 330 use Panasonic FM at

                http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12386-ND

                Don't forget to replace C107 as well on both boards.

                Would this do to replace a dud Capxon cap at c107? I have all of the others but this was closest I could find. Its Panasonic so I guess its OK but I have heard there are the odd Panasonic that is not up to usual standards.

                http://nz.element14.com/jsp/search/p...sp?sku=1973504

                Comment

                • foolmeonce
                  New Member
                  • Dec 2016
                  • 1
                  • USA

                  #28
                  Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

                  I just found badcaps.net - reviving an old thread...
                  I have a 214T that I replaced the 3 330uF 25V and 2 820uF 25V caps about 3 years ago.

                  Worked perfectly until about 2 weeks ago, then started having issues where the picture would turn into gray/black patterns rolling up the screen. Turning off/on would revive the picture, sometimes for a minute or 2, sometimes for a day or 2.

                  Opened it today - the 5 replacement caps look fine, but the big 180uF 450V has a very small amount of yellowish goo on the flat top (end). So, I plan on replacing that and the small 47uF 50V cap at the same time. What would be the best replacements for these? Looking at Digi-Key I see a couple of possibilities:

                  180uF 450V - 1189-3227-ND Rubycon, or 493-11201-ND Nichicon

                  47uF 50V - P19658CT-ND Panasonic, or 493-12921-1-ND Nichicon

                  My knowledge of component electronics is quite limited so I appreciate any help. Also, best way to remove the glued on big cap from the board without doing any damage?

                  Thanks,

                  Mike

                  Comment

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