Samsung Syncmaster 214T

[r3z0nate]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

Thanks for the link. I had been searching just for the model number and never saw this information. It looks like I possibly need to replace the large capacitor and/or some of the diodes. I'll have to double check with another multimeter to make sure. The diodes overload on both ends and the cap barely holds what it should

1) 2 seconds to black can be

a) bad caps
b) bad inverter transformer
c) bad ccfl and/or wiring

All are discussed in more detail in posts #13 and #14 at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419

[baxtex]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

My 214T flickers at start and then goes black with the greenpower light on like for most of the other users on this thread.

The difference i have from other users with similar behaviour is that if i unplug and replug in the DVI cable few-to-serveral times (i suppose until the monitor heat up) the monitor stays on with no flaws of sort for very long period of time.

If i switch it off while is hot i have no problems with flickering as long as i put it back on before it cools down.

Is it possible that the casue is the same capacitors ? or maybe the startup capacitor (i have read somehwere there is also a startup capacitor but i stuggle to identify which one it is ?

Should i open it up and see if any capacitor is bulging ?

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

My 214T flickers at start and then goes black with the greenpower light on like for most of the other users on this thread.

The difference i have from other users with similar behaviour is that if i unplug and replug in the DVI cable few-to-serveral times (i suppose until the monitor heat up) the monitor stays on with no flaws of sort for very long period of time.

If i switch it off while is hot i have no problems with flickering as long as i put it back on before it cools down.

Is it possible that the casue is the same capacitors ? or maybe the startup capacitor (i have read somehwere there is also a startup capacitor but i stuggle to identify which one it is ?

Should i open it up and see if any capacitor is bulging ?

Yes.

PlainBill

[baxtex]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

Yes.

PlainBill

I got around to find the time to open the monitor and actually 4 out of the 5 caps are bulgin (one of them is also slightly cracked).

I have never done any soldering work, but i am going to give it a try tonight and replace the 5 caps with the ones reccomended at the beginning of this thread. I will then post photos and if it did work or not (or if i bricked the PCB :P )

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

I have never done any soldering work,

An excellent soldering video by CuriousInventor at

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

and

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=485

[baxtex]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

The repair was succesful, many thanks for the help!

[GerryAttrick]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

Unless there are signs of someone opening up the monitors previously, I would replace the caps with the same uF per board.

Assuming these are the correct dimensions ...

For 820 use Panasonic FM at

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12391-ND

For the 330 use Panasonic FM at

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12386-ND

Don't forget to replace C107 as well on both boards.

Would this do to replace a dud Capxon cap at c107? I have all of the others but this was closest I could find. Its Panasonic so I guess its OK but I have heard there are the odd Panasonic that is not up to usual standards.

http://nz.element14.com/jsp/search/p...sp?sku=1973504

[foolmeonce]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 214T

I just found badcaps.net - reviving an old thread...
I have a 214T that I replaced the 3 330uF 25V and 2 820uF 25V caps about 3 years ago.

Worked perfectly until about 2 weeks ago, then started having issues where the picture would turn into gray/black patterns rolling up the screen. Turning off/on would revive the picture, sometimes for a minute or 2, sometimes for a day or 2.

Opened it today - the 5 replacement caps look fine, but the big 180uF 450V has a very small amount of yellowish goo on the flat top (end). So, I plan on replacing that and the small 47uF 50V cap at the same time. What would be the best replacements for these? Looking at Digi-Key I see a couple of possibilities:

180uF 450V - 1189-3227-ND Rubycon, or 493-11201-ND Nichicon

47uF 50V - P19658CT-ND Panasonic, or 493-12921-1-ND Nichicon

My knowledge of component electronics is quite limited so I appreciate any help. Also, best way to remove the glued on big cap from the board without doing any damage?

Thanks,

Mike