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flourescent ballast resistance

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  • eccerr0r
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Originally posted by stj View Post
    the plastic tube base has a starter across the heaters - it acts just like a fullsize tube.
    it's actually a good design because it means when you replace the lamp you get a new starter without having to actually get a seperate one.

    the downside is you cant use an electronic ballast because they need all 4 wires.
    Actually, that PL13 lamp that I was mentioning, has the integral starter... and it's using an electronic ballast!

    https://www.harborfreight.com/lighti...ord-63162.html
    Last edited by eccerr0r; 06-30-2022, 05:29 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • CapLeaker
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Originally posted by stj View Post
    the plastic tube base has a starter across the heaters - it acts just like a fullsize tube.
    it's actually a good design because it means when you replace the lamp you get a new starter without having to actually get a seperate one.

    the downside is you cant use an electronic ballast because they need all 4 wires.

    this is interesting:
    https://www.greenelectricalsupply.co...ght-white.aspx
    That options seems cheap and easy enough!

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    the plastic tube base has a starter across the heaters - it acts just like a fullsize tube.
    it's actually a good design because it means when you replace the lamp you get a new starter without having to actually get a seperate one.

    the downside is you cant use an electronic ballast because they need all 4 wires.

    this is interesting:
    https://www.greenelectricalsupply.co...ght-white.aspx
    Last edited by stj; 06-30-2022, 04:10 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • redwire
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    I know two-wire tubes are cold-cathode. If you have a HV AC source, like a car ignition coil+555, you can put the HV wire anywhere near the tube and it will ionize and light. BBQ lighter not sure.
    It's a weird problem, I think either the ballast is pooched having insulation breakdown and it can't deliver the HV start spike.
    No idea what the starter is about, I think it shorts the tube then opens, which causes the ballast to charge and dump EMF into the tube to light it.

    Leave a comment:


  • CapLeaker
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Wire a similar lamp or cfl to that ballast.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    fuck the lamp - i have a dozen new ones.
    i just want to verify that the ballast is the problem and not a broken wire or shitty lamp socket.

    Leave a comment:


  • CapLeaker
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Finding a 9w cfl ballast shouldn’t be a problem as these are very common. Only thing is, you gotta be damn near on the ball, otherwise too much or too little (wattage mismatch) will damage that lamp. Magnetic or electronic won’t matter.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    read the post again.
    i was going to drive it with the electronic ballast from a cfl.
    not with mains.

    Leave a comment:


  • Per Hansson
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Originally posted by stj View Post
    i think it's 9w
    i had an idea,
    i will short the 2 pins on the ballast,
    then connect the mains cable to a pcb from a CFL.
    if the lamp lights - the ballast is fucked.
    It requires a ballast to work, otherwise it will burn out.
    In your picture on the lamp it is written Osram Dulux S model 827, it has a G23 base.

    From the datasheet we can see it is a 11W lamp that requires 91v.
    If you feed it mains directly it might explode.
    It does have an internal starter but not a complete ballast like CFL's with E27 sockets for example.

    https://www.elfa.se/en/fluorescent-b...827/p/13354255

    Leave a comment:


  • eccerr0r
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    The F15T8 mag ballast I'm pretty sure can be used for PL13, though I have a mag ballast PL13 lamp somewhere...

    Also have a PL13 lamp with electronic ballast which I like more because it starts much faster. Except it died because its caps died...and ran out of smallish 20uF 150V caps for the doubler in it to replace it.

    ... now if I used two 3300uF caps for the doubler...

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    lol

    Leave a comment:


  • CapLeaker
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    well stj... you started it! Today at work I done nothing else besides fixing ceiling lights. Changing ballasts and t12 F40 U shape tubes.
    These are old magnetic style rapid start ballasts supporting two T12 40W u shaped tubes. Each bad ballast had a winding shorted to a different one and the black tar like substance running out of it.
    Good thing is, I ran out of florescent tubes and ballasts.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    CFL = compact flourescent lamp
    it has the starter built into the base.

    Leave a comment:


  • redwire
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Pic shows two wires to the tube and the Osram datasheet showed two and said DULUX S is CFL. Is that the problem, wrong tube? I'm konfuzed

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    it's not cold cathode, the tube has a glowplug built into the base

    Leave a comment:


  • redwire
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Oh it's cold cathode? Then it's just a matter of the starter/ballast making a kV pulse. Sometimes holding the tube or having it next to grounded sheet metal helps it ionize at lower voltages.
    There must be something breaking down preventing the HV spike from happening, either the ballast winding's insulation or the starter, CFL socket etc.
    What a hassle.

    Leave a comment:


  • Per Hansson
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    In one of DiodeGoneWild latest videos he tests a 36w CFL ballast:

    https://youtu.be/B4YM_ljELl4?t=723
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    i think it's 9w
    but i have lots of spare PL in 7w - 11w, they used to be popular in retrofitted stuff.

    i had an idea,
    i will short the 2 pins on the ballast,
    then connect the mains cable to a pcb from a CFL.
    if the lamp lights - the ballast is fucked.

    Leave a comment:


  • CapLeaker
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    For what it’s worth, GE still makes magnetic ballasts for the NA market. I thought nobody made those magnetic ballasts anymore?

    Interesting light fixture. There is not much room inside. I’d be tempted doing a led conversion.

    Just googled Osram D8/827… I can see D10’s and D13 also on eBay. I guess that lamp is a D8?

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: flourescent ballast resistance

    Originally posted by CapLeaker View Post


    I am sure you know that already. Lol
    you asked for it.
    this is the lid of a countertop vending machine
    notice how the lamp is between the top housing and a colour filter to illuminate the goods.
    ignore the tape and led lights - thats the owner trying to bodge some illumination into it - failed
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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