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    #1

    Choosing a new multimeter

    I've been using my meter a lot more and the current one isn't cutting it. Currently using a very budget chinese multimeter, probes are falling apart and the dial is clunky as hell.

    I don't have the dough for a fluke, I found the following meter - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...A3DWL9I0SG4MBZ It looks more solid than my current one, autoranging also states it can test capacitance in the following ranges

    Capacitance:
    40nF/400nF/4uF/40uF/400uF/2000uF

    I know I need an ESR meter to test caps in circuit, can anyone tell me if the capacitor test feature on the multimeter I linked above is comparable to the functions an ESR meter offers, if not how does it differ?

    -OCF
    Tags: None
    #2
    Re: Choosing a new multimeter

    Originally posted by ocf View Post
    I don't have the dough for a fluke,
    For another 5 pounds, you can get a Fluke 101 off ebay. The Fluke 101 won't measure current, but for 97% of troubleshooting all you basically need is volts and resistance.

    Of course, you may be working on projects/repairs that would require current measurement.

    The Fluke 101 will survive any "oops" moment. Forgot to turn off power while measuring the 450V high voltage filter capacitor with 101 set to ohms mode? No problem.

    Capacitance:
    40nF/400nF/4uF/40uF/400uF/2000uF

    I know I need an ESR meter to test caps in circuit, can anyone tell me if the capacitor test feature on the multimeter I linked above is comparable to the functions an ESR meter offers, if not how does it differ?
    Measuring capacitance and ESR are two totally different things. No handheld multimeter can measure ESR.

    Be aware that measuring anything in circuit is not 100% reliable. Other components in the circuit could be affecting the reading. To get a 100% correct reading, you have to desolder the component.
    Last edited by retiredcaps; 08-04-2016, 04:47 PM.
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      #3
      Re: Choosing a new multimeter

      The Vici VC99 that you linked was in Dave's $50 shootout from 6 years ago.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoeUgMFLyAw

      Dave throws 5000V at it as well

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKcH4JxnxbQ
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        #4
        Re: Choosing a new multimeter

        Well there are some niche meters that can do LCR, but they are quite expensive.
        The Agilent U1733C is one that can test up to 100KHz which is nice.
        But I know of no combined handheld multimeter with LCR function.
        Generally you don't need that kind of precision though.
        I find the old Bob Parkers MKII ESR meter works just fine for my needs.
        Or the more recent "transistor tester" which you can find info about on eevblog or here.

        http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgea...ecker-project/

        When it comes to multimeters it helps to know your usage; I would never recommend a cheap meter for measuring high capacity power networks.
        But if you never do line voltage tests then sure a cheap meter can be ok.
        Last edited by Per Hansson; 09-18-2016, 12:46 AM.
        "The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it."

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          #5
          Re: Choosing a new multimeter

          what do you want to meter with it, and what's your max price?

          btw, i have never been concerned about using a cheap meter on domestic mains.
          they have a number of safety features.
          one such feature is cheap leads that will fail to protect the meter

          another safety feature is the fact that most humans have 2 hands - so the meter will not be in your hand while your holding the probes.
          Last edited by stj; 08-06-2016, 06:57 AM.

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            #6
            Re: Choosing a new multimeter

            thanks for the input guys, I think I will go with the fluke 101 as current measuring is not important and I can rely on my cheapo meter for that.

            Comment

              #7
              Re: Choosing a new multimeter

              Originally posted by ocf View Post
              thanks for the input guys, I think I will go with the fluke 101 as current measuring is not important and I can rely on my cheapo meter for that.
              You can make your own shunt if you want to measure current.

              Let us know how you feel about the Fluke 101 after you have used it for a week or two.

              PS. Just be aware that the Fluke 101 is intended for the China and India markets and there is NO WARRANTY from Fluke it it is sold outside those countries.

              The Fluke 101 warranty is only 1 year. The more expensive Fluke meters have a minimum 10 year warranty.

              Nonetheless, the 101 is a very popular meter over at eevblog and there are numerous reviews, teardown photos, etc.
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                #8
                Re: Choosing a new multimeter

                I got the fluke 101.

                It's smaller than I expected but feels solid, good leads also.

                I'm trying to test some IGBT's but not getting the results I'm expecting. When I put power on the gate of the IGBT from a bench DC power supply I get connection source to drain. When I use the Fluke 101 +V lead on the gate and then check the source to drain I get nothing.

                Manual/Spec sheet for the fluke doesn't mention what voltage it outputs in diode measurement mode. If I remember correctly the IGBT's I'm testing have a 4v gate threshold voltage. I might look that up again to confirm.

                Any suggestions on what I could be doing wrong?

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                  #9
                  Re: Choosing a new multimeter

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                    #10
                    Re: Choosing a new multimeter

                    Originally posted by ocf View Post
                    If I remember correctly the IGBT's I'm testing have a 4v gate threshold voltage. I might look that up again to confirm.

                    Any suggestions on what I could be doing wrong?
                    You are not doing anything wrong. The Fluke 101, as you found, sources 2V in diode test mode. With 2 AAA, that is reasonable.

                    I know that my Fluke 87V sources around 7.9V, 1mA in diode test/600 ohm using a 9V battery.

                    There are pros and cons with too much or too little voltage. Too much and you risk damaging some sensitive components. Too little and you can't light an LED or turn on an IGBT.

                    I'm no expert on IGBTs, but a quick look at some sample datasheets suggests the turn on voltage is anywhere from 5V to 6.5V. Very few handheld multimeters can source that. Even meters that use a 9V battery, they are typically in the 2.5 to 3.5V range.

                    From reading some of the common plasma TV problems, IGBTs usually fail shorted. So a simple ohms resistance check is all that required to determine if the IGBT is bad.

                    Some of the "how to test a IGBT" search results suggest using a 9V battery if you want to test the turn on/off.
                    Last edited by retiredcaps; 08-31-2016, 06:17 PM.
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                    Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

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                    Comment

                      #11
                      Re: Choosing a new multimeter

                      You are not doing anything wrong. The Fluke 101, as you found, sources 2V in diode test mode. With 2 AAA, that is reasonable.

                      I know that my Fluke 87V sources around 7.9V, 1mA in diode test/600 ohm using a 9V battery.

                      There are pros and cons with too much or too little voltage. Too much and you risk damaging some sensitive components. Too little and you can't light an LED or turn on an IGBT.

                      I'm no expert on IGBTs, but a quick look at some sample datasheets suggests the turn on voltage is anywhere from 5V to 6.5V. Very few handheld multimeters can source that. Even meters that use a 9V battery, they are typically in the 2.5 to 3.5V range.

                      From reading some of the common plasma TV problems, IGBTs usually fail shorted. So a simple ohms resistance check is all that required to determine if the IGBT is bad.

                      Some of the "how to test a IGBT" search results suggest using a 9V battery if you want to test the turn on/off.
                      Thanks for the info, really helpfull. I guess I will test using resistance and use an external power source if I want to test them on/off.

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