Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Soldering Iron tip question?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Soldering Iron tip question?

    I'm planning on getting a Hakko 936-12 soldering station. I'm mainly going to be doing recapping with it, and some other generalized repair work.

    I'm planning on getting it from here: http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-12.html

    My question was, as a moderate newbie at soldering electronics (I'm actually pretty decent at silver soldering using an oxy-propane torch on jewelry), what tips would be good to get with this iron?

    #2
    Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

    get a small, flat/chisel tip. best heat transfer. works great for me as i use an xytronic 258 30w iron with that tip.

    for solder, i personally use thin silver solder. works great for me and melts quicker.
    sigpic

    (Insert witty quote here)

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

      Hi Torin3

      The Hakko 936 come with a really nice small chisel tip already attached and with solder melted on. (to protect it before sale)

      You should be able to use that very effectively for recapping and component-lead sized soldering.

      It's the only one I bother with . I tried a pointy one once (on another iron) and didn't like it.

      Hakko make a lot of interesting looking specialized tips- there's a small chart on the back of the box sleeve that you're apparently intended to cut out and attach to your favorite wall.

      Have Fun,
      Keri
      The More You Learn The Less You Know!

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

        The 936 is a nice iron it would have been my first iron if I'd known about it.

        Theres one caveat.

        You must remove the locking collar and remove the oxidation from the tip body every now and then. It's buried in the user manual where it can't be found easily .

        When I used to use my Hakko Dash (same sleeve tip locking design) I used it for extended periods like around 10 hours some days.

        Eventually when I wanted to remove the tip the oxidation firmly fixed the tip to the collar there was no getting it out.

        I ended up purchasing a new sleeve and tip from Hakko and I remembered to remove the tip and remove the oxidation every now and then.

        Hakko is great for parts you can literally buy any part for a reasonable price from their site unlike cheaper Ratshack irons that are disposable.

        I ended up going for the FX-951 because of this oxidation issue which I didn't want to this about anymore (the tips are plug in hot swappable and include the heating helement) the 937 (the digital version of the 936) is just 16 less than the FX-951 so if anyone else is considering a digital station go for the 951.

        Also stay away from the Ayoue and other clone knockoffs (especially of the 936) they use cheaper (wirewound instead of printed) heating elements and temperature sensors.
        Last edited by Krankshaft; 09-08-2009, 09:25 PM.
        Elements of the past and the future combining to make something not quite as good as either.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

          this seems odd but am i cheap because i chose NOT to drop 8o an a station and bought a 30w tem-controlled iron? it does everything this station does. mine is an xytronic 258.
          sigpic

          (Insert witty quote here)

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

            Well, I ordered the 900M-T-2.4D, so I guess I'll have a backup chisel tip. I also ordered a 900M-T-S9.

            Krankshaft, thanks for the tip about the oxidation. I take it a brass brush will clean it up?

            Also, the advice I got originally was to go with Weller, Goot, or Hakko for irons.

            Thanks everybody for the tips (pun intended) and the advice.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

              Yes just remove the sleeve every now and then if you use it often and make sure it comes off without any resistance the sleeve should just slide off the tip.

              If you have to twist the tip or push it down through the sleeve then it's time to clean a brass brush will do just brush the tip body where it contacts the sleeve and not the tips plated solder surface you don't want to remove the plating.
              Elements of the past and the future combining to make something not quite as good as either.

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

                Question: Tinning the iron.

                I've never soldered (properly at least) until after watching a few video tutorials on YouTube and doing some basic research into the skill. They all pretty much say you should tin your iron.

                Well, I have two irons. A Hakko 40W, and an ECG 60W with Qualitek Rosin Core Wire Solder, 60/40 (.032"). Regardless of what iron I use, I can't seem to get them to tin. The solder just sizzles and "beads" right off.

                Obviously I'm doing it wrong somehow. Could it be my irons are too hot and/or using the wrong solder?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

                  no. heat is fine and i use different solder but what you have is fine.

                  do you have the wet-sponge for cleaning? what i will do is add a bunch of solder (hi-tech silver solder is what i use but 60/40 works). then i will spin the circumference of the tip on the sponge to get an even coat. then i wipe the excess off using the sponge. if it does not appear silvery (shiny but darker, maybe gold or red-gold), thew repeat until it is silver again. thats impurities and oxidation being cleaned, which darkens the tone and hinders the usefulness of the tip.

                  hope that helps.
                  sigpic

                  (Insert witty quote here)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

                    I think your irons are good enough, probably the Qualitek Rosin Core Wire Solder is not good.

                    Once I bought a solder that was like shit: it was impossible to make good joint, it smoked like a chimney and produced a lot of tin balls. The flux core spread a lot of small drop all around.

                    Try another kind of solder.

                    Ciao
                    Gianni
                    "In the confrontation between the stream and the rock, the stream always wins...Not through strength, but through persistence."
                    H. J. Brown

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

                      Well, the Hakko arrived today. I've already used it to recap one board. So far like it a lot.

                      Originally posted by ratdude747
                      get a small, flat/chisel tip. best heat transfer. works great for me as i use an xytronic 258 30w iron with that tip.

                      for solder, i personally use thin silver solder. works great for me and melts quicker.
                      I was meaning to comment on this, I don't think we're talking about the same silver solders. Stuff I use has a melting point between 700°C and 800°C.


                      Also, Krankshaft, you'll be glad to know that the 936 manual mentions the need to remove oxidation regularly.

                      The 2.4 D turns out to be larger than the default chisel tip, and the T-S9 is smaller than the default chisel tip.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

                        FYI, Fry's Electronics has the 936-12 on sale for $69.99, stock #454489, through 9/24/2009.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Soldering Iron tip question?

                          Glad it's in the manual.

                          On the topic of solder I always use Kester solder 63/37 (21 AWG thickness) they've been around since the tube radio days. The most important thing in good solder is the flux.

                          Here it is:

                          http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...sp?SKU=34C5655

                          I buy the 1 pound reels because nothings more annoying than running out of solder with new components still on the table.

                          ONLY use solder with rosin based flux (like the solder above) not that no clean flux crap I once bought it by accident lots of smoke and the joints were terrible.

                          I have never found a need for silver bearing solder 63 Tin 37 Lead has always worked well for me. All the silver would do for me is add to the solders cost.
                          Last edited by Krankshaft; 09-20-2009, 06:11 PM.
                          Elements of the past and the future combining to make something not quite as good as either.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X