What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

Try this one I have not used this series before “KYB” but I think it looks very similar to “KY”

This one is 2700@35 volts
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...272MK40S&v=565

I going to buy some of these caps and try them in my units and see if it likes them or not

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

May i ask why you linked a 25v cap?

anyway i found a FR cap
EEU-FR1V222L 2200uf 35v 12.5mm dia
EEU-FR1V471, i assume the 470uf should be upgraded to 35v also (otherwise i can use a EEU-FR1E471Y)

That bar only holds 2 of the 3 ICs

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

I forgot that this one had the metal bar that held all three IC chips in place
You do not have to do anything what you have with work just fine
I have work on so many different devices lately I guess mess up on this

These caps will be fine UKL1H100KDDANATD
The two 2200uf@35 volt caps are a FR series will be the only that will right
right now I cannot find the bag tag for those caps that I had used 3300@35 volts I will see if I can find the ones that I used

This will probably fit ( KY 2200uf@35 volt ) diameter 12.5mm

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1560-ND/756076

The 3300uf @ 35 volt one starts with 16.00mm which will not fit
I guess they do not have the 12.5mm anymore

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

so as for the 50v 10uf caps are low leakage Nichicon UKL good for those? UKL1H100KDDANATD (I have these on hand)
no need to replace the large 400v cap?

should i put some electrical tape on that bolt?
the bolt is in contact with the heat sync, none of the 5pins on the IC show a connection to the heat sync

I attached a couple pictures of how it looked whit the heat sync in its original state *i suck at editing so i tried to remove my legs as best i could cause i am not a attractive female

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

There are two plastic washer one on the screw “head” is one that has a tapered ring that fit in the mounting hole to the heat sink on the chip side there is where the other plastic washer goes then the flat metal washer then the lock washer then the nut

Do not put the wrong plastic washer in the wrong side of the heat sink

When you put it back together check the screw that holds the power supply regulator IC chip that there is NO resistance between the screw and the heat sink

so when you say no resistance do you mean r=0.0000000 or r=N/C (infinite)
that statement seems like a possible 0 == False vs 0 === False issue

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

so with this component is there was nothing between it and the heat sync it would short 120v AC to earth ground?
If so how do the bolt threads not short it? Is the bold itself not conductive?

There are two plastic washer one on the screw “head” is one that has a tapered ring that fit in the mounting hole to the heat sink on the chip side there is where the other plastic washer goes then the flat metal washer then the lock washer then the nut

Do not put the wrong plastic washer in the wrong side of the heat sink

When you put it back together check the screw that holds the power supply regulator IC chip that there is NO resistance between the screw and the heat sink

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

the pump looks to get power from a black box mounted at the back of the unit (next to a under voluted 24v fan) that contains two 5w resistors and the low side of the pump goes to the gun
aside: really that fan grill is shit, either use a honeycomb design or cut big hole and use a cheap wire grill, wait a min this fan in a intake i thought it was exhaust

the only transformer i can find is on the power supply

Look in the black plastic box and see if there is a capacitor on that board if there is replace it as well

That fan grill is ok it moves enough air surprisingly enough it is the intake side of the fan

There is a very thin gray insulation pad on the back of that switching power supply regulator IC chip the one you circle in that photo

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

From where the two red wires are to the yellow transformer on the same side of the red wires are the hot side the other side of the transformer is the low voltage side of the transformer no it was not a typo

I hope this helps

so with this component is there was nothing between it and the heat sync it would short 120v AC to earth ground?
If so how do the bolt threads not short it? Is the bold itself not conductive?

[stj]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

test it with a known good lead if you dont want to test the one it came with.

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

if your looking that closely, find out how the trigger controls the pump.

on the older transformer type ones, it was just direct and the switch & cable got hot.
a solid-state relay was a good upgrade.

the pump looks to get power from a black box mounted at the back of the unit (next to a under voluted 24v fan) that contains two 5w resistors and the low side of the pump goes to the gun
aside: really that fan grill is shit, either use a honeycomb design or cut big hole and use a cheap wire grill, wait a min this fan in a intake i thought it was exhaust

the only transformer i can find is on the power supply

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

not sure if you thought that was a typo or you made a typo
were you saying the choke should receive 120V ac at the PCB OR the back of the IC by the cap is hot

From where the two red wires are to the yellow transformer on the same side of the red wires are the hot side the other side of the transformer is the low voltage side of the transformer no it was not a typo

I hope this helps

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

On that note is the back one by the large cap hot or ground,

The black one is on the hot side of power supply to the outlet

not sure if you thought that was a typo or you made a typo
were you saying the choke should receive 120V ac at the PCB OR the back of the IC by the cap is hot

[stj]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

if your looking that closely, find out how the trigger controls the pump.

on the older transformer type ones, it was just direct and the switch & cable got hot.
a solid-state relay was a good upgrade.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

I will let you know tomorrow

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

My "insulation disk" has corners, i do not think i can call that a disk...

Do you have a list of replacement caps that will fit the board from where you replaced them in the past?
not sure if it will fit as i have not taken measurements, but EEU-FR1V222L 12.5mm dia 3.5cm tall 2200uf 35v

about the pin set i was asking about the part at the I wanted to make sure the lead from the switch to the PCB was correct

time to get some sleep...

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

On that note is the back one by the large cap hot or ground,

The black one is on the hot side of power supply to the outlet

i would expect the bolt going through it could have the threads touch the heat sync let me circle it, that one had 3 disk between the IC and the nut

Nut -> Red pad -> red pad -> red pad -> IC -> paste -> pad -> Heat sync -> lock washer -> bolt

i put it back like this
Nut -> red pad -> red pad -> IC -> paste -> pad -> Heat sync -> Red pad -> lock washer -> bolt
should i clean of and apply new paste like i would for a CPU's heat sync?

The insulation disk (which is gray in color) goes between the IC chip and the heat sink

The screw should have a plastic washer on the heat sink side and chip the washer and lock washer and then the nut make sure that chip has these parts on it

have not powered it on, stj said the mains wire may be reversed, so i wanted to check that 1st, but not sure which side should be Line and Neutral, i know the power switch goes to the yellow brick 1st, i would assume the switch should get line, but i am not sure if he meant the wire to the switch or the wire to the board

When you look at the outlet
The pin on the right side is the line side
The pin on the left side is the neutral side
The bottom on pin is the ground side

The fuse should be on line side of the plug if it is not then it should be but check with another cord just to make sure it is not cord that is wired that is wired wrong

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

And that you put heat sink compound on those three components on the heat sink and make sure the insulation disk are in place and the screws are tight

On that note is the back one by the large cap hot or ground, i would expect the bolt going through it could have the threads touch the heat sync
let me circle it, that one had 3 disk between the IC and the nut
Nut -> Red pad -> red pad -> red pad -> IC -> paste -> pad -> Heat sync -> lock washer -> bolt
i put it back like this
Nut -> red pad -> red pad -> IC -> paste -> pad -> Heat sync -> Red pad -> lock washer -> bolt
should i clean of and apply new paste like i would for a CPU's heat sync?

Does your ZD-915 shows “U1” or “U3” if yours is “U1” or there is nothing on boot on the screen then you have an older version of this unit

have not powered it on, stj said the mains wire may be reversed, so i wanted to check that 1st, but not sure which side should be Line and Neutral, i know the power switch goes to the yellow brick 1st, i would assume the switch should get line, but i am not sure if he meant the wire to the switch or the wire to the board

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

which component should be +120v ac, the black disk or the yellow brick? (center image left side)

That is the switching power transformer and the component with either 5 or 8 pin that is the switching power supply regulator IC chip in the first photo it is one on the left the one in the middle and the one on the right are for the heater and the other one is for the vacuum pump but I can not remember which one is which without looking at the board again

The black one is the choke coil for electrical noise filtering with the caps that are near it

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

If you put the 3300uf@35 volt caps in it is going a very tight fit
When you order the caps make sure of the diameter
When you look up the 2200uf@35 volt caps you see that 3300uf@35 volt has a bigger diameter

Also make sure that that you replace the 10uf@50 volts
And that you put heat sink compound on those three components on the heat sink and make sure the insulation disk are in place and the screws are tight

The two caps on the temperature controller board it would be a good idea to replace them put 35 volt ones instead of the 25 volt ones

I would order both just in case you can fit them in way you want to

I had one of my ZD-916 soldering iron LED black light went black I have a couple of controller boards that have issues so I replace it and now the back light works again

Does your ZD-915 shows “U1” or “U3” if yours is “U1” or there is nothing on boot on the screen then you have an older version of this unit

You might have a problem when it is cooler than 75* F it might restart a few times before it will stay ON there is a work around if this case I will share with what you can do for it to work right

[evilkitty]

Re: What is a good de-soldiering iron/tool?

23 screws later...
looks like the same unit sam sam sam has with those 25v 2200uf caps that should be 35v

which component should be +120v ac, the black disk or the yellow brick? (center image left side)