I would not call that a schematic. That is more of a parts placement/label diagram. If you had the graphics card in front of you, it would show it all on the silkscreen printing. Those type of drawings are relatively useless.
I would not call that a schematic. That is more of a parts placement/label diagram. If you had the graphics card in front of you, it would show it all on the silkscreen printing. Those type of drawings are relatively useless.
ok i need schematic to identify part that is missing on GPU board.
The components look like they were sheared off by blunt force
On photo 1, the left missing component probably is a 10nF smd ceramic cap, and the right component probably a 100nF smd ceramic cap. On photo 3 it looks like a diode is missing in action (silkscreen says 'D702'). Which type of diode? Your guess is as good as mine... I can't see anything missing on the other photos.
The components look like they were sheared off by blunt force
On photo 1, the left missing component probably is a 10nF smd ceramic cap, and the right component probably a 100nF smd ceramic cap. On photo 3 it looks like a diode is missing in action (silkscreen says 'D702'). Which type of diode? Your guess is as good as mine... I can't see anything missing on the other photos.
re-atari
graphic card fell down on the floor,so this is why this parts are missing,ok I found D 702 diode from another gpu picture.
graphic card fell down on the floor,so this is why this parts are missing,ok I found D 702 diode from another gpu picture.
Couldn't you spot the diode and other 2 components laying on the floor? Chances are you can resolder the diode right back on the board (after checking it with a multimeter, of course).
BTW: check the silkscreening to make sure the big component on the 2nd photo actually is a ceramic cap. It looks like the legenda is printed to the lower left, but it is only partially visible on your photo. The photos of the other board could be of help to you. And check the components surrounding the sheared off ones, I see a few looking less than pristine. C116 looks damaged. There might be other victims.
Edit 1: On the 2nd set of photos you uploaded you can see that both are actually ceramic caps. The left one is listed as C1600, but the part nr. of the bigger cap is not to be found on the silkscreening.
Edit 2: Only just now I see you indicated a 3rd cap on your first set of photos. As this one (C1467) is still in place I'd just resolder both sides. The same goes for C116 and C109. Solder one side first, and let it cool down before heating up the other solder side.
Consider yourself lucky if you get the board working again.
Couldn't you spot the diode and other 2 components laying on the floor? Chances are you can resolder the diode right back on the board (after checking it with a multimeter, of course).
BTW: check the silkscreening to make sure the big component on the 2nd photo actually is a ceramic cap. It looks like the legenda is printed to the lower left, but it is only partially visible on your photo. The photos of the other board could be of help to you. And check the components surrounding the sheared off ones, I see a few looking less than pristine. C116 looks damaged. There might be other victims.
Edit 1: On the 2nd set of photos you uploaded you can see that both are actually ceramic caps. The left one is listed as C1600, but the part nr. of the bigger cap is not to be found on the silkscreening.
Edit 2: Only just now I see you indicated a 3rd cap on your first set of photos. As this one (C1467) is still in place I'd just resolder both sides. The same goes for C116 and C109. Solder one side first, and let it cool down before heating up the other solder side.
Consider yourself lucky if you get the board working again.
re-atari
Thank you re-atari , I will order new caps but how to know voltage? I need to measure good caps on board? 6.3v or 16 v?
The video card might just run fine without those ceramic caps (and at worst display artifacts or run unstable at full load). I'm not saying you shouldn't replace them, but don't worry about them now. First get that missing diode fixed - the video card won't run without that and you can damage something if you try it. That diode is 100% vital. Observe the correct polarity too.
The video card might just run fine without those ceramic caps (and at worst display artifacts or run unstable at full load). I'm not saying you shouldn't replace them, but don't worry about them now. First get that missing diode fixed - the video card won't run without that and you can damage something if you try it. That diode is 100% vital. Observe the correct polarity too.
I contacted several Electronic Parts stores,but nobody have this diode..
If it doesn't open, search for "SX32", and that should pop some good results.
It's a 3A SMD schottky diode rated for 20V reverse voltage and an average forward voltage drop of 0.5V. So just see if those parts stores carry any 3A schottky diodes - they don't have to be SMD. You can certainly use an axial diode too - the fix will just look a bit more ugly, but who cares.
Worst case, buy a 6A fast recovery diode/rectifier and use that. Why 6A? Because fast recovery diodes have a higher forward voltage drop (usually around 1V minimum), so it will be dissipating much more heat. Something like SPR600 will probably work. Actually even a 3A diode might work... like HER301-HER303, or MUR405, or PR3001-PR3007 <- all of these should be easily found as they are common diodes. But, of course, see if you can find a schottky first.
If it doesn't open, search for "SX32", and that should pop some good results.
It's a 3A SMD schottky diode rated for 20V reverse voltage and an average forward voltage drop of 0.5V. So just see if those parts stores carry any 3A schottky diodes - they don't have to be SMD. You can certainly use an axial diode too - the fix will just look a bit more ugly, but who cares.
Worst case, buy a 6A fast recovery diode/rectifier and use that. Why 6A? Because fast recovery diodes have a higher forward voltage drop (usually around 1V minimum), so it will be dissipating much more heat. Something like SPR600 will probably work. Actually even a 3A diode might work... like HER301-HER303, or MUR405, or PR3001-PR3007 <- all of these should be easily found as they are common diodes. But, of course, see if you can find a schottky first.
thank you,momaka,I ordered schottky diode 3A 20V,I will post here when it arrives.
Good afternoon. I own FX-795-TDJC v3.0 . The problem I am facing is that a few components are missing. To be more specific - Q215, R227, Q207 and D202. Is there any schematics or diagrams for this GPU board? Or, if possible , can anyone post the names of those missing components, so it will be easier to find a analog part to put instead of missing one.
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