Hello,
I acquired a Samsung LN52A550 (actually a LN52A550P3FXZA).
It's a 52" 1080P Model and the version is SQ01
Looks like someone replaced the power supply capacitors with new SamYoung and Samwha units. They used the correct voltage and capacitance.
I took these caps out and used low esr Panasonic and Rubycon 105C caps.
The tv initially turned on with good picture and sound had all the correct voltages on the power supply but after a while (1/2 hour) it quit. The set showed the red blinking power light and clicking relay (every 25 seconds).
I was able to get it to start again by just letting it cycle. This time it lasted a shorter time before failing. Now it won't restart.
Indicator in the center of the set is on and the blinking light and relay is cycling again. Nothing looks damaged on the power supply or main board and the voltages on the main board connector are good.
I've found on the net that some Samsung models will show a similar symptom if the eeprom is corrupted. The eeprom mentioned has the markings "2EB 1" and is actually an Atmel 24c256.
I'm wondering if I have the same problem. My main board is a BN97-01985V and I found an eeprom with the same designation at IC204 on the upper left of center on the top side of the main board.
I found other parts on the backside of the main board at locations IC1000, IC1001 and IC1003. These are marked ATMLH822 02B1 These are all roughly in the center of the board. Sorry, no photo of the back of the board yet.
Has anyone seen the problem where the eeprom is corrupt, lets the tv turn on then shuts down after some time?
Can this be a common problem on this model?
By the way when it shuts down it isn't pretty. Sometimes various patterns on the video image or no video just colors. Also can have a loud audio pop or whine before it quits. If it restarts the picture, sound, menu, etc. are fine.
The other question is about IC204. Is this the eeprom that is responsible? I plan on changing it and not trying to short out pins 5 and 6.
Have to order it tomorrow, so I wanted some expert opinions.
I don't know what the other ATMEL parts might be for on the back side.
Thanks,
Mike
I acquired a Samsung LN52A550 (actually a LN52A550P3FXZA).
It's a 52" 1080P Model and the version is SQ01
Looks like someone replaced the power supply capacitors with new SamYoung and Samwha units. They used the correct voltage and capacitance.
I took these caps out and used low esr Panasonic and Rubycon 105C caps.
The tv initially turned on with good picture and sound had all the correct voltages on the power supply but after a while (1/2 hour) it quit. The set showed the red blinking power light and clicking relay (every 25 seconds).
I was able to get it to start again by just letting it cycle. This time it lasted a shorter time before failing. Now it won't restart.
Indicator in the center of the set is on and the blinking light and relay is cycling again. Nothing looks damaged on the power supply or main board and the voltages on the main board connector are good.
I've found on the net that some Samsung models will show a similar symptom if the eeprom is corrupted. The eeprom mentioned has the markings "2EB 1" and is actually an Atmel 24c256.
I'm wondering if I have the same problem. My main board is a BN97-01985V and I found an eeprom with the same designation at IC204 on the upper left of center on the top side of the main board.
I found other parts on the backside of the main board at locations IC1000, IC1001 and IC1003. These are marked ATMLH822 02B1 These are all roughly in the center of the board. Sorry, no photo of the back of the board yet.
Has anyone seen the problem where the eeprom is corrupt, lets the tv turn on then shuts down after some time?
Can this be a common problem on this model?
By the way when it shuts down it isn't pretty. Sometimes various patterns on the video image or no video just colors. Also can have a loud audio pop or whine before it quits. If it restarts the picture, sound, menu, etc. are fine.
The other question is about IC204. Is this the eeprom that is responsible? I plan on changing it and not trying to short out pins 5 and 6.
Have to order it tomorrow, so I wanted some expert opinions.
I don't know what the other ATMEL parts might be for on the back side.
Thanks,
Mike
Comment