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Old 10-10-2016, 05:07 AM   #1
Bungz
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Default Asus P5K SE Choke replacement

Hello

I have the above board and while it works perfectly one of the chokes whines and I would like to replace it.

http://static.nix.ru/autocatalog/mot.../67037_top.jpg

My question is that R68 chokes are very common, I can harvest off a dead board but does it have to be the exact same as is currently on the board or are all R68 stamped chokes equal?

Thanks!
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:23 AM   #2
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Default Re: Asus P5K SE Choke replacement

There's no harm in trying it, and they're not polarized.

Good luck desoldering it though and then clearing the holes afterwards.
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Old 10-10-2016, 12:49 PM   #3
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Default Re: Asus P5K SE Choke replacement

Desolder station makes short work of them

Will see if I have anything that fits in the pile of death
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Old 10-11-2016, 10:45 AM   #4
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Default Re: Asus P5K SE Choke replacement

He he, lucky you...

It took 4 or 5 episodes of Sherlock Holmes over here just to desolder and clear the holes off the VRM low caps on an Asus P5B-VM.

They must have used some secret nazi lead-free alloy... The stuff is almost impossible to remove.
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:26 PM   #5
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Default Re: Asus P5K SE Choke replacement

If you don't have a heatgun, do the work with the board on top of a griddle or room heater and it'll go much faster.
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:50 PM   #6
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Default Re: Asus P5K SE Choke replacement

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Originally Posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View Post
If you don't have a heatgun, do the work with the board on top of a griddle or room heater and it'll go much faster.
Thanks, will do
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:44 PM   #7
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Default Re: Asus P5K SE Choke replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bungz
I have the above board and while it works perfectly one of the chokes whines and I would like to replace it.
Unless the noise is really annoying you, I wouldn't worry about it.
If it's a toroidal inductor, you can also try to "pot" it with glue (but the glue has to be non-corrosive).
I sometimes use wood glue for stuff like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View Post
If you don't have a heatgun, do the work with the board on top of a griddle or room heater and it'll go much faster.
I used to do that (pre-heat board with heat gun) when I only had my 30 Watt Radio Shack iron. It works, but.... meh. Don't expect miracles.

There's no replacement for a soldering station with T12/T15 tips, though (or if you have money, a JBC ). Takes me a minute or less to take out even the toughest coils.
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