Hi, I need help with a Nintendo Switch HAC-CPU-20 board. I’m dealing with a short circuit that I cannot isolate.
The ENxx chip overheats immediately when injecting voltage.
Repairs already done:
Replaced MAX chip
Replaced ENxx chip
Replaced BQ chip
Replaced M92 chip
No change.
Testing method:
GND soldered to USB-C shield
Positive lead on V6 (VSYS rail)
Injecting 4.2V @ 1A
When injecting into VSYS, nothing happens until I momentarily short the two pads of the power button connector (to simulate pressing...
Tomylee
Member
Last Activity: 03-03-2026, 05:10 PM
Joined: 10-07-2024
Location: Repentigny
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Nintendo Switch shorted cap
Hi, I’m working on a Nintendo Switch HAC-CPU-20 with no signs of life at all.
The M92T36 and the BQ charging IC have been replaced, with no change.
I found two short circuits:
a capacitor shorted between the DRAM and the M92
a resistor shorted near the BQ chip
I don’t have any schematics, only boardviews without values or component names (everything is labeled Nxxxx).
If anyone has seen this issue before, help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks 🙏... -
Harman Kardon making noise
Hello, I have a Harman Kardon SB 30 CNTR soundbar that started making a squealing/grinding noise after some time of use. When I opened it, I found a bulging and leaking capacitor , which I replaced. Since then, the noise is now constant.
I also noticed a resistor that is overheating, but I can’t identify the root cause of the problem.
Could someone help point me in the right direction for troubleshooting?
Here is the service manual I found:
https://fr.scribd.com/document/88984...Service-Manual
Thanks in advance 🙏... -
HP 15-fc0007ca Charger Cycling On/Off with Hot MOSFET – Need Component Info
Hello,
I have an HP 15-fc0007ca that works normally, but when I plug in the charger while the laptop is powered on, the charging cycles on and off repeatedly—it starts charging, stops, then starts again.
Using a thermal camera, I identified a MOSFET that is overheating, along with a small 2R2 resistor next to it that gets even hotter than the MOSFET.
I also hear a “zpzpzpzp” type noise, but the noise is not coming from the same area as the hot MOSFET. I will include a photo with the exact spot where the noise is coming from highlighted.
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By the way il tried IPA and a torch light and still cannot see, i think its a bios chip ... -
Hello its me again !
I checked the board again after replacing the original component that was overheating. Now I’ve noticed that a different component is getting slightly warm (around 30°C).
When I inspected it under the microscope, I saw that it’s actually burned on top.
I can still make out part of the marking — it looks like “M?” followed by “=8L 438”, but the second letter after the “M” is not readable.
Does anyone know what this component could be or have a schematic/boardview for the Dell Inspiron 15 3511 to help...Leave a comment:
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Thank you very much, i appriciate all the help !Leave a comment:
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Can you help me with a digikey link please ?Leave a comment:
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Dell Inspiron 15 3511 – Won’t power on after plugging in, one chip gets extremely hot
Hi everyone,
I have a Dell Inspiron 15 3511 that stopped turning on after my friend plugged in the power adapter.
Here’s what I’ve checked so far:
No reaction when pressing the power button (no LEDs, no fan).
The power adapter works fine (tested).
One chip gets extremely hot as soon as I plug in the charger.
The capacitors around that area are not shorted.
I’m attaching photos of the board to show the issue.
Based on this, what kind of fault or defective component could be related to this overheating?... -
Lenovo TP00095C – “G” marked component fell off during USB-C repair, need ID
Hello,
I have a Lenovo laptop board TP00095C with a broken USB-C port. While replacing the USB-C connector, a very small black rectangular component with a “G” marking on it (located on the back side) came off.
I still have the component, but its pads look damaged. The pads on the motherboard itself is not affected.
Could anyone help me identify what this component is, and if I can reuse it or if it should be replaced?
I also noticed that the other identical components around it all look slightly tilted/crooked, but they are still... -
And on these pictures all the capacitor on the bottom of the connector have been removedLeave a comment:
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Full pictures...
Leave a comment:
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No LCD image after connector replacement – lifted components and damaged resistor (Nintendo Switch Lite HDH-CPU-02)
Hi everyone,
Sorry for the person who’s going to read all this !
I'm on a Nintendo Switch Lite, motherboard HDH-CPU-02.
While replacing the left joystick, I had to remove the motherboard to access the connector underneath. When I lifted the LCD connector latch, it broke (the plastic had become brittle over time), so I replaced the entire connector.
During the desoldering of the LCD connector using hot air, three small components located just below the connector (likely 0402 capacitors) came off and remained stuck to the bottom of the... -
Hi everyone, Thanks again for your previous replies.
At first, I thought the missing component to the left of the processor was a TVS protection diode (probably for ESD), but after reviewing some photos and comparing with other boards, it really looks more like a tantalum capacitor.
I have to admit I haven’t seen many tantalum capacitors on this type of board, so I’d really appreciate your input:
Could the missing tantalum capacitor be the reason why the blue light doesn’t turn on at all when powering on the console?
...Leave a comment:
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Here...
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Hi! I noticed that a component is missing just to the left of the CPU on my Nintendo Switch motherboard. I'm not exactly sure what it's supposed to be, so if anyone has an idea or a reference photo of that area, it would really help me identify the missing part.
Thank you so much for the other replies as well! If replacing and soldering this missing component doesn’t fix the issue, I’ll definitely move forward with the solutions you suggested.
Thanks again!...Leave a comment:
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Hi, thanks a lot for your reply! 🙏
This is my first time playing around with a Nintendo 2DS XL, so I want to make sure I understand what I’m doing.
You mentioned checking the main power rails — would you be able to help me figure out exactly which ones I should be testing? If you have any info about their locations, test points, or the expected voltages, that would be super appreciated.
I’ve got the right equipment (multimeter, lab power supply, etc.), I just want to make sure I’m testing the right things in the right places.
...Leave a comment:
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Nintendo 2DS XL – Orange light, no blue light, signs of overheating
Hi everyone, I have a Nintendo 2DS XL that shows the orange charging light when plugged in, but nothing happens when I press the power button — no blue light, no screen, no sound.
Here's what I've observed:
All ribbon cables are properly connected
Battery is present and in good condition
No reaction even with screens disconnected
There's a visible burn mark / overheating sign on the metal shield, right above the CPU
I’m suspecting an issue with the CPU, PMIC, NAND, or a power... -
By the way, Lotas, how did you know it was just a choke? Did you search for and find documents or anything to come to that conclusion, or did you just know? I’d really like to know, if possible, so I can learn how to solve similar problems in the future. Thanks
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Thank you so much for your help! Your response was really helpful in understanding the component and moving forward with the repair. I truly appreciate the time you took to assist me, have a great day !Leave a comment:
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