Samsung PN60E550D1F

[enothor]

With this TV I'm receiving no power. The red standby light will only come on if I hold the power button in, and then it flashes very quickly until Ilet go and it's dead again. PSU to xsus readings are:

12. Vs - Read 16 then dropped to 10.4
11. Vs - 10.4
10. NC
9. Va - 0.0
8. Gnd
7. D15v - 15.4
6. D5.3v - 5.4
5. Gnd
4. Vs-On - 0.0
3. Vs-Con - 0.0
2. Ps-On - 0.1
1. Gnd

These values don't seem to be the proper output, but I'm not positive. Any ideas or further testing you can recommend?

[MagicSmoke]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

What is the P/N of PSU? If 5.3v stby is present on PSU and there is no red standby led lit at switch module then mainboard has a problem or switch module is defective.

The only service guide I could find is not much help. Test for 3.3v on pin 3 on switch module. If it is higher or lower then it's a mainboard problem. Service guide attached.

[enothor]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

P/N of PSU is BN44-00512A. I have no 3.3v

[enothor]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

On the connection from the psu to the main board, I get the following readings:

PS-On - 0.1
STBY - 5.3
GND
D15v - 15.4
GND
GND
D5.3v - 5.3
D5.3v - 5.3
GND
D15v - 15.4
D15v - 15.4
D5.3v - 5.3

[MagicSmoke]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

When set is plugged in but not turned on, check for 3.3v at pin 3 on switch function connector CN702. Page 5 on service manual.

If you don't have this voltage on that pin then mainboard is faulty. PSU Voltages look OK at this point.

[enothor]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

I have 3.3v on pin 3. I tried the test listed on the guide to jump the logic board and psu and got nothing. I did notice that when I was messing with the function button it would bleep and bloop but no screen activity. Once the red light went solid and then flashed slowly about five times and turned back off.

[drussell]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

MagicSmoke: He could be seeing the same thing with the PWM controller in the -Vscan. Once I enabled the speakers on one of the E530s here it does make the startup chime and shutdown chime noises even when the high voltages don't come up so the set is actually on with no picture.

This explains part of the reason why people were having so much trouble getting these to come on in the morning, it actually takes 3 button presses to try to power cycle it. One for on, one brings up some kind of power off ? then one more gives you the shutdown chime and turns it off and the light goes back to solid red for standby. Tricky when you have no picture.

enother: Does using the remote produce different results on the front panel LED than pressing the button on the set? It does here with the E530 problem... Pressing the set's controllie-button once it's in lockout just gives short blinkies. I had better results while trying to troubleshoot these using the remote power button instead, especially since to power off you're supposed to scroll the set's function doohicky to one side or something then press it again. No true dedicated "power" button.

Just a thought....

[enothor]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

Unfortunately, I don't have the remote.

[enothor]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

If you know of any specific components to test on this model that often fail, just let me know. I'm pretty capable of testing most things. I'm just stuck on this set at the moment.

[drussell]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

Unfortunately, I don't have the remote.

I don't have the real remote here either. I'm using a UEI/URC universal remote set for Samsung. Code 1312, maybe?

Do you have ANY universal remote around you can try? Most of the remotes that come with cable/sat boxes have universal-for-tv features at least.

If you know of any specific components to test on this model that often fail, just let me know. I'm pretty capable of testing most things. I'm just stuck on this set at the moment.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43075

Could try chilling your Y-Main...

[drussell]

Re: Samsung PN60E550D1F

Referring to the Infineon ICE3BR0665J at U5014 right below the transformer for the -Vscan on the Y-Main board:

So, everyone who may have this problem, check the voltage on pin 1 (the lower right pin, indicated by the arrow on the PCB) with your meter's negative lead to ground and if you do NOT see the 0.9v when you power up the set, suspect this part. If you have freeze spray, give the chip a little squirt and you should hear it start to oscillate if the power is on (you'll have to then turn the set off and back on to get the high voltages to come up for a picture) or turn it on if it was off while you sprayed. Both of these ones here come right up and work fine until the next power cycle.