Re: Toshiba LCD 22BL502B Solid Green Led No Picture
It's a little different unfortunately.
Most LED drivers in LED TVs work by using multiple parallel strips driven from a high voltage for example 30V.
This means there may be 4 strips (CH1-4) and the anode is tied to the fixed voltage, cathode goes to a constant current sink circuit which drops a small voltage to keep the current through each strip the same. You can't tie them in parallel because they are slightly mis-matched: one will take all the current leaving none for the others.
I don't know of any commercial drivers that are able to replicate that crucial last part, BUT, you could probably use a resistor in place if you knew the approximate power usage.
For example say the LED strip operates at 27VDC @ 350mA (approx 8 LEDs per CH.) If you run it at 30V, you need a resistor rated at (30-27)/0.35 = 8.5 ohms (nearest: 8.2 ohms, 10 ohms). Such a resistor will dissipate a power of around 1 watt. Choose 2 watt for safety and longevity.
There are a lot of "if", "ands" and "buts" about this, but it would work, if you were prepared to tweak the operation carefully. I would start at around 20~100mA, and increase until acceptable screen brightness is observed.
It's a little different unfortunately.
Most LED drivers in LED TVs work by using multiple parallel strips driven from a high voltage for example 30V.
This means there may be 4 strips (CH1-4) and the anode is tied to the fixed voltage, cathode goes to a constant current sink circuit which drops a small voltage to keep the current through each strip the same. You can't tie them in parallel because they are slightly mis-matched: one will take all the current leaving none for the others.
I don't know of any commercial drivers that are able to replicate that crucial last part, BUT, you could probably use a resistor in place if you knew the approximate power usage.
For example say the LED strip operates at 27VDC @ 350mA (approx 8 LEDs per CH.) If you run it at 30V, you need a resistor rated at (30-27)/0.35 = 8.5 ohms (nearest: 8.2 ohms, 10 ohms). Such a resistor will dissipate a power of around 1 watt. Choose 2 watt for safety and longevity.
There are a lot of "if", "ands" and "buts" about this, but it would work, if you were prepared to tweak the operation carefully. I would start at around 20~100mA, and increase until acceptable screen brightness is observed.
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