Wouldn't it stay powered up by unhooking those if those were bad?
What if it was working but the sustains were bad and damaged it because you forced the PSU on with that test with the resistors when the PSU test probably should have been done on it's own ?
That's something we won't know now.
It's all just theory. If the PSU is now totally dead, you'll need a PSU and the rest if it's bad as well you'll just have to work out if it comes to that.
Just looking at worst case what if you need PSU, YSUS, Zsus, buffer?
Sorry i wish i knew this model better but I simply don't and all i know is what i'd be looking at just in case.
The PSU may fix it, how can we prove the rest unless there's an obvious short or something I don't know.
Re: Z50PJ240 Powers on then back off clicks but no picture
I see what your saying but I did unhook those from the very start and never got any power. So if they damaged the power board it would of been before I did the resister test.
Funny thing is when its all hooked up and I get lucky on a click and it will power on for a minute or 2 and everything looks normal before it will click off. Could take 50 tries to do that again. That's one reason I got lucky doing the resistor test once to check the voltage. Don't know why I never saw a test pattern.
Re: Z50PJ240 Powers on then back off clicks but no picture
Ok well that probably makes the PSU suspect from the start, you've probably seen the LG 50PJ350 post today and his powers up solid with no sustains hooked.
as soon as he has the Ysus it quits, click on then off. He's checked the PSU and done the bench test with bulbs and it's staying good.
Sorry if I gave you the run around, I thought at some stage in the repair you had the PSU up.
can't belive what they want for each board though, ysus are $90 up
Re: Z50PJ240 Powers on then back off clicks but no picture
yeah you don't wan't power or any residual power either in the caps.
I can't hang on 130 am here. It may not prove anything, have not unearthed anything yet with the other one so feeling like a goose now.
When the boards are cheap enough sometimes safer to get them all but for you maybe psu and if still needed hopefully encompass are good and reliable.
That link, looks like the PSU has an issue, i'm seeing none new and refurbs plus they want the bad one . $60 with your old one , all the other boars ysus,zsus and both buffers for another $100 if i've got it right.
here's the list, I put the same in the other post.
D304 is the diode that I already replaced. So you have to take them out to check them?
D304 reads 0 on both of my board that tested good including one brand new from Sears Parts..
As I had stated if I disconnect the lead going from the ysus board to the power supply (The Large Connector and thick wires) and power it on then it would power on without clicking back off so I had ordered a new Ysus board. I placed the new ysus board in and the tv fired up but the screen was messed up colors wise with some ghosting red blue colors as well as not showing all of the menu but was gradually scanning across and showing more until after about 1 minute I hear a pop and that ysus board was dead. I believe the part was DOA from the get go but I will be pulling all of the bottom buffers out tomorrow to check for flaws to make certain nothing is shorting out there. I'll keep you posted. Also soog if there's anything I can do to help let me know but try running it with just the 1 wire disconnected and everything else connected to see if it's your ysus board or not. if it is let me know and I will msg you a link to a place to get the part at a reasonable rate because nothing including TW's link has them in stock. I spent hours searching but saved about $30-$40 compared to ebay prices which were around $90+ but note that if it turns out to be teh ysus board it's possible a buffer board took it out.
D304 reads 0 on both of my board that tested good including one brand new from Sears Parts..
As I had stated if I disconnect the lead going from the ysus board to the power supply (The Large Connector and thick wires) and power it on then it would power on without clicking back off so I had ordered a new Ysus board. I placed the new ysus board in and the tv fired up but the screen was messed up colors wise with some ghosting red blue colors as well as not showing all of the menu but was gradually scanning across and showing more until after about 1 minute I hear a pop and that ysus board was dead. I believe the part was DOA from the get go but I will be pulling all of the bottom buffers out tomorrow to check for flaws to make certain nothing is shorting out there. I'll keep you posted. Also soog if there's anything I can do to help let me know but try running it with just the 1 wire disconnected and everything else connected to see if it's your ysus board or not. if it is let me know and I will msg you a link to a place to get the part at a reasonable rate because nothing including TW's link has them in stock. I spent hours searching but saved about $30-$40 compared to ebay prices which were around $90+ but note that if it turns out to be teh ysus board it's possible a buffer board took it out.
Check the links closer
Green Choice EBR63039801 Ysus Board ( equivalent) 18 available $30
Green Choice EBR63551601 Ydrvtp Board Assy $22 over 50 available
Green Choice EBR63551701 Ydrvbt Board $20 over 50 available
Green Choice EBR63040301 Zsus Pcb $27 over 50 available
messed up picture sounds like shorting buffers and probably what blew the ysus, bad zsus also possible.
Re: Z50PJ240 Powers on then back off clicks but no picture
Hey TW thx for the info. I must have jumped the wrong link or something cause it was showing $122 and 0 in stock on the ysus but that wasn't the green choice. I pulled all the buffer boards out and not a single spot that even looks close to like anything would have happened to them . I guess for now I'm gonna wait on the replacement Ysus board and am also gonna order a ysus/zsus and buffer board set from your link. It's worth the $100 to get this going again. I had previously checked the zsus board and saw no signs of any damage to that either however we all know not all problems are easily visible. I will certainly post back once I find the culprit.
Re: Z50PJ240 Powers on then back off clicks but no picture
They sell rebuild kits for those on ebay for around $17 it's 2-3 ceramic resistors (depends on board) + 1 fuse + 1 diode (d304) however don't get fooled by D304 not showing any resistance as it didn't show any resistance on either my old board b4 or after rebuild kit or the brand new one I ordered straight from Sears which was a factory direct part. Check the ceramic resistors (Tall white ones) at the top corner of the board. it is a common failure however according to Tom66 it is a less common failure on the model containing (3x) 5w 10ohm than it is on the one containing (2x 22ohm) on those ceramic resistors. but test them with a multimeter and see cause they do still fail on the model with 3.. they are very simple to replace and you may be able to get your old PSU working again to have as a spare.
Re: Z50PJ240 Powers on then back off clicks but no picture
Brentsky my D304 is 266.3 and the 3 white resistors were good, didn't have to replace them. I'm hoping the power board is my problem from the test I did.
Re: Z50PJ240 Powers on then back off clicks but no picture
Since I won't get new PSU til Friday I went ahead and did this Control board test from the training manual, since the LED never stays on. Looks like the control board is good. Going to check the buffer board for shorts. Was a little unsure how to do that until i found video on YouTube. Turns out its Tom, glad to say you have another subscriber.
TW you also said to check Y-SUS and Z-SUS for resistance at the connections. Where do I put the leads? It has a lot of things to check in those manuals, but its a little confusing to me.
Brentsky my D304 is 266.3 and the 3 white resistors were good, didn't have to replace them. I'm hoping the power board is my problem from the test I did.
Any evidence that large resistor R305 is burnt or tracks blown off underneath? I can't see how you can get 266ohms because of the 0.26 ohm resistor that sits across this diode.
Since I won't get new PSU til Friday I went ahead and did this Control board test from the training manual, since the LED never stays on. Looks like the control board is good. Going to check the buffer board for shorts. Was a little unsure how to do that until i found video on YouTube. Turns out its Tom, glad to say you have another subscriber.
TW you also said to check Y-SUS and Z-SUS for resistance at the connections. Where do I put the leads? It has a lot of things to check in those manuals, but its a little confusing to me.
Just looking for obvious dead shorts or very low resistance. Just test between gnd and VS,Va & 15V. Other than maybe also using diode mode and probing the transistor legs for short and diodes for short that are mounted on those heatsinks.
Pick a transistor leg and probe the other 2, then move to next leg and repeat until they are all tested. EG 1-2,1-3,2-3
The 3 pin diodes generally the outer pins are tied together so will show short. center to either outer should test like a diode not shorted.
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