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    #1

    Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

    Hi all, this is my first post, been lurking for a while now, lots of great advice here!

    Here is my problem: I have a Philips 32PFL5322D/37, picked up on craigslist. The symptoms: no output power whatsoever, all outputs show 0 volts. When I took out the board and turned it over, it was obviously worked on, and badly at that! I'm not exactly a solder master, but it looked like they had globbed the solder on the iron and forced it over to the components. From what I can see, it has been re-capped, and one resistor was replaced (R112). By the way, the power board is a PLCD190P5.

    Now I'm sure most of you are thinking, run far far away, and just get a new power supply. That would be the logical choice, but I would like to try to fix it for 2 reasons: 1) I want to learn more about power supply troubleshooting, and 2) a replacement board is 80 bucks + shipping!

    With that out of the way, I've been sleuthing around, probing with my meter and pulling suspect components. So far I haven't found anything wrong, but I think the controller may be shorted. Part number on the controller is TEA1533T, and when I probe in circuit VCC, Ground, Drain, and Driver are all shorted together. Knowning next to nothing, this seems like a bad thing. Is it possible to test this in circuit? Should I bother ordering a new one and putting it in? I don't mind spending the money, but if it is a dead end then I'd rather not bother. Thanks for any help you can give!
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    #2
    Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

    Originally posted by rpgruss View Post
    1) I want to learn more about power supply troubleshooting,

    So far I haven't found anything wrong, but I think the controller may be shorted. Part number on the controller is TEA1533T, and when I probe in circuit VCC, Ground, Drain, and Driver are all shorted together.
    1) Good job so far.

    2) Because everyone has a different threshold for what they consider shorted, what is the actual ohms reading between the above pins?

    3) For example, if VCC and GND measure less than 1.0 ohms, I think we can both agree the controller is shorted.

    You can desolder to verify. If it is bad, you have to remove it anway.

    4) If the SMPS controller is shorted, you will definitely not get any secondary voltage.

    5) findchips.com shows no stock

    http://www.findchips.com/avail?part=TEA1533T

    6) One seller on ebay has the chip for $5.49 + $2 shipping.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/250878468063

    The seller is in China, but has 99.9% feedback. I have no affliation with the seller or experience with his service.
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      #3
      Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

      Rather than the boring lecture on power supplies, you are going to get the boring lecture on providing sufficient information so we can help you.

      First, we need an over-all picture of of the back of the TV (with back removed) so we can see how everything is connected. Next we need a single picture of the top of the power supply and another of the bottom of the power supply. Each of these pictures should be as big as possible without going over 2000 pixels in either dimension. Attach the pictures using 'Manage Attachments' below the text tnery area.

      The TEA1533T is a SMPS controller, and may be used as the controller for the standby supply. If the standby supply is dead, nothing else will work. And the TEA1533T is one of a class of SMPS controllers that generates startup voltage internally, and is prone to failure. They are available from a number of sellers on eBay at prices ranging from almost reasonable to outrageous.

      My suggestion: Post the pictures. Examine the board carefully, looking for unrepairable damage. If syou don't find any and nobody sounds an alarm, order the part, install it, and give it a try.

      PlainBill
      For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

      Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

      Comment

        #4
        Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

        Thanks for the replies. First off, I was wrong on the number of the controller, I missed a letter. It is a TEA1533AT, not TEA1533T.

        Plainbill: I'll take some pictures tonight and get them posted.

        Retiredcaps: I tested using the diode test function on my meter. It beeped on all the connections I mentioned as shorted. I just went and tried mesuring again on the 200ohm setting which is the lowest setting on the meter, all the what I though shorted connections had different resistances, but none were over 30 ohms. The lowest was vcc->ground, which was 15 ohms. If it would be helpful to post all the measurements I can do that, but I'm starting to think the controller is a dead end.

        Comment

          #5
          Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

          Originally posted by rpgruss View Post
          The lowest was vcc->ground, which was 15 ohms.
          The chip is likely shorted.
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            #6
            Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

            Ok, I will get the controller on order with a kit of chip quik. Looks like it is pretty cheap, so even if it isn't the problem it's not bankrupting

            Here are the pictures.
            Attached Files

            Comment

              #7
              Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

              Hmm, maybe before order the stuff, remove that big blog of solder and double check the resistor value on that patch resistor.

              If the cap with the big blog looks okay and the resistor checks out, then place the order. If not, add a cap and resistor to the order.

              Just to clarify, I generally say a shorted component measures less than 30 ohms. However, it is not a "rule" written down in electronics books or anything.
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                #8
                Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                Originally posted by retiredcaps View Post
                Hmm, maybe before order the stuff, remove that big blog of solder and double check the resistor value on that patch resistor.

                If the cap with the big blog looks okay and the resistor checks out, then place the order. If not, add a cap and resistor to the order.

                Just to clarify, I generally say a shorted component measures less than 30 ohms. However, it is not a "rule" written down in electronics books or anything.
                By 'patch resistor' do you mean the round one in the upper left corner, or the one attached to the bottom of the board? I checked them both, the upper left one measured 1.8 ohms, the one on the bottom was 650 ohms.

                I checked the main capacitor, and when I put my leads across it the resistance steadily increases. Does this mean good, bad, or inconclusive?

                Comment

                  #9
                  Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                  Originally posted by rpgruss View Post
                  I checked them both, the upper left one measured 1.8 ohms, the one on the bottom was 650 ohms.
                  Bottom one.

                  Does this mean good, bad, or inconclusive?
                  Inconclusive. Does your multimeter measure capacitance?

                  I'm sure it is okay if it is brand new and it is a Rubycon. I'm just worried about the joint itself. Typically large solder blobs like that could be a cold joint. Or it could move as temperature/heat comes into play.

                  If it were me, I would remove all that solder and resolder it properly.
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                    #10
                    Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                    Originally posted by retiredcaps View Post
                    Does your multimeter measure capacitance?

                    I'm sure it is okay if it is brand new and it is a Rubycon. I'm just worried about the joint itself. Typically large solder blobs like that could be a cold joint. Or it could move as temperature/heat comes into play.

                    If it were me, I would remove all that solder and resolder it properly.
                    It does, but only to 20uF or so, not enough to read a giant cap like that.

                    I intend to resolder it better, I'm no expert but I can do a better job than that. The only issue is I started to fix the giant blob near the rectifier diode bridge and realized the trace was lifting; that was probably part of the reason for the solder blob. I've heard the best way to 'jump' the connection with a piece of wire, any other suggestions?

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                      Originally posted by rpgruss View Post
                      I've heard the best way to 'jump' the connection with a piece of wire, any other suggestions?
                      I had to jump one solder connection because I buggered up the via or ringlet as I call it. I was trying to remove a c5707 transistor.

                      Others who have way more expertise in this area have recommended scraping away enough of the pcb to expose the copper and then jumper to that. I have never tried this way.

                      You can search on this forum for the exact technique above.
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                        #12
                        Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                        I watched the entire series of videos, but I can't remember which one exactly dealt with lifted traces.

                        http://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide

                        It might have been this one.

                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o4ZW...2&feature=plcp

                        PS. I love the old narration style. It reminds me of the old training videos. I found all videos worthwhile to watch.
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                          #13
                          Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                          Originally posted by rpgruss View Post
                          It is a TEA1533AT, not TEA1533T.
                          Both digikey and mouser have the part at a more reasonable price. If you order from digikey, shipping is likely to be $2.75 USD and you will get it in about 2 days with USPS 1st class mail.

                          http://www.findchips.com/avail?part=TEA1533AT

                          Maybe get 2 since it is only $1.28 each?
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                            #14
                            Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                            Wow!!! A lot of progress on this thread while I was preparing the garden for planting.

                            Definitely clean up the solder messes on the bottom of the board. Definitely order from Digi-Key, and getting a second part is a good idea. It's likely that the only thing wrong was the TEA1533AT.

                            PlainBill
                            For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                            Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                              Retiredcaps: Thanks for the video link, I watched the one you linked and it was most helpful. Now to make time to watch the rest!

                              I have 2 controllers and a chip quik kit on order, should be here by the end of the week. All for under $20, Digikey rocks! In the mean time I will start removing the excess solder blobs.

                              This may be a matter of personal preference, but I have solder wick and a solder sucker. Which would be best?

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                                #16
                                Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                                Solder wick.

                                Only use solder sucker on through hole parts and even then I don't like them, tend to rip off pads and get clogged up with solder so require frequent cleaning.
                                Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
                                For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

                                Comment

                                  #17
                                  Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                                  If you're careful with your iron, wick does a cleaner job. Solder sucker is only good for large parts really, and it has the habit of of spitting solder all over the place when you push the plunger back in.
                                  Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                                  Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                                  A working TV? How boring!

                                  Comment

                                    #18
                                    Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                                    By the way, it looks like the board is wave soldered, hence the red stuff under the components (glue.)

                                    I am not sure how easy it will be to remove this glue, it may require heating the chip to a high temperature using a hot air gun, but try a soldering iron first. Wave solder temperatures are around 250C, so a soldering iron at 300-350C may melt the glue.
                                    Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
                                    For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

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                                      #19
                                      Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                                      Alright, my supplies have arrived!

                                      Here is my plan: apply chip quik to all leads with standard soldering iron, then 'borrow' my wife's heat gun to heat the entire chip, and hopefully the glue too! Unfortunately I won't be able to attack it until tonight, but I'll report back with progress.

                                      Comment

                                        #20
                                        Re: Philips 32PFL5322D/37 power supply repair

                                        Originally posted by rpgruss View Post
                                        Alright, my supplies have arrived!

                                        Here is my plan: apply chip quik to all leads with standard soldering iron, then 'borrow' my wife's heat gun to heat the entire chip, and hopefully the glue too! Unfortunately I won't be able to attack it until tonight, but I'll report back with progress.
                                        I'm not sure if the glue will stick if it has aged. Maybe it is designed to work until the wave soldering? Give it a go with the soldering iron first then try the hot air. If you use hot air, you shouldn't need any solder, just carefully apply hot air for 20-30 seconds and the chip will come off easily. Hot air should be around 300C to do this.
                                        Last edited by tom66; 01-26-2012, 08:55 AM.
                                        Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
                                        For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

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