Or schematic will be very usefull if somebody has please?
Your TV is a different model to the one posted here. Please start your own thread, post photos if you can. People are more likely to be able to help you then
Hello,
I have samsung LE32A336. I am sure that a repaired whole PSU, because I tested all voltages on their nominal current. Everything's fine, until I connect main board, then StandBy supply (5.2V) started oscillation between 5,2V and 0, I think, it is because on the mother board is shortcut, but I cannot found him. I changed all elites, but does not help. I am thinking about corrupted EEPROM, but it cannot shortcut supply, am I right? BTW, when I connect resistor between StB supply and ON/OFF pin on PSU, TV works fine, but it is not good way ). Any suggestion please?
Or schematic will be very usefull if somebody has please?
Hello,
I have samsung LE32A336. I am sure that a repaired whole PSU, because I tested all voltages on their nominal current. Everything's fine, until I connect main board, then StandBy supply (5.2V) started oscillation between 5,2V and 0, I think, it is because on the mother board is shortcut, but I cannot found him. I changed all elites, but does not help. I am thinking about corrupted EEPROM, but it cannot shortcut supply, am I right? BTW, when I connect resistor between StB supply and ON/OFF pin on PSU, TV works fine, but it is not good way ). Any suggestion please?
The correct fusible resistors arrived yesterday. Popped it in last night and all is right as rain.
Thank you again budm and everyone else that contributed to this thread, nice top have two of these back in working order.
DSC
You put in the wrong resistor (see diagram in the earlier thread), RM801 it should be 0.22 Ohms Fusible resistor, not 22 Ohms, that is why it burnt up.
Hello everyone.
I've been woking on yet another BN44-00155A board for a LN T3253H. It had the slow blinking light with alternating blue ambient.
It had only one bad cap (all the others tested OK) but I replaced all of the caps as I had a kit on hand.
Next I found the RM801 had blown so I replaced it, only thing I had was a 22ohm 2W flame proof instead of the 1W fused.
I removed all of the glue as standard practice thanks to this thread. None of it seemed to be giving a problem.
Again because of this thread I replaced CM810, QM801, QM802 and CM808.
The set has come back to life however after a few minuets I smelt something overheating and found the higher watt RM801 was glowing red.
The million dollar question now is where do I look next?
Very cheap fix, it was that or new supply, and new supply on this old tv is not a cheap investment.
Now I gain some new experience, if anything similar came in the future I will know where to start. Hope I helped with this description up if anyone else is having similar troubles with their supply.
P.S
I put MX-2 thermal paste (I use MX-4 also) on both mosfets, I used dot method like on PC CPU in the middle of the chip and tight the screw to heat sink.
Success, Tv is working again! I am extra happy right now.
We replaced:
- RM801
- CM810
- QM801 (we didn't find 500V 9A so we put a bit stronger one 600V 9A)
- QM802 (we didn't find 500V 9A so we put a bit stronger one 600V 9A)
- CM808
- Glue removed (picture down is before replacements)
Total cost around 8-10$
Pics:
what we replaced:
Working TV:
Thank you so much guys for your suggestions and help, appreciate it.
Any paste is good or ? I have MX-4 for PCs, laptops, GPUs that I put, she is very good and very nice temps I got with her, one of the best in my opinion. I think it's like on CPU not too much but not too many I assume. I saw that they have some kind of thermal track on heatsink so I guess it needs to be spread on chip and not like CPU when you put dot and he spread thermal paste on it's own.
Over time the paste can dry out or degrade - how long this takes I'm not sure. If it doesn't look or feel like paste anymore, seems dry\crumbly etc... definitely replace it.
Make sure you use the same amount they have used already, too little (or even too much) can cause problems.
Is it worth changing thermal paste under that mosfet chips with heatsink if supply is like 7+ years old or I should just leave it like it is ? Those that I will change of course I will put new one, but I was wondering if I should replace paste on all others that have heatsink.
I suppose something cold start drawing too much current. Can be a problem on the main TV card? Referring to the temperature dependence of the cold start I would have guessed for a capacitor. I have a good idea? Or is it stupidity? DaTT.
Hello. Please have a scheme to BN41-00813B? My TV still does not work properly. When cool the TV, the start takes a few minutes. I think that the main board defective (BN41-00813B). Can someone help me? Thank you.
It does seem like you have a heat sensitive fault on the mainboard. From what I see on the forum, a bad capacitor may be the cause. It may even be a surface-mount polymer or such capacitor too.
Can you selectively heat or cool parts on the board? Do you have freezer spray?
Check the earlier pages of this thread for some schematics.
I found on aliexpress seller and I bought from him I had to buy 6 piece minimum. Now 2 weeks of waiting for them to come and after that I hope when friend & I solder all capacitors that are dead, that tv will be working again.
Hello. Please have a scheme to BN41-00813B? My TV still does not work properly. When cool the TV, the start takes a few minutes. I think that the main board defective (BN41-00813B). Can someone help me? Thank you.
Can't you just lean the capacitor over and bend the legs around or something?
Legs are too short and too wide they can't reach the holes, they made everything like that so you are forced to buy original one, and shipping to my country is 37$ ffs from ebay. So I'm searching for someone in US becouse shipping to US is 2$ and capacitor is 6$ that's 8$ total and very acceptable price comparing it to mine. Still didn't found anyone from US, but I'm searching like I searched my whole country for this capacitors, and in one store highest they have is 1000V DC and 600V AC with 22nF, and that one is too weak for what I need so guess ebay is only way now.
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