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Samsung "MU" series (UN, UA, UExxMUxxxx) fault dump IC1604 25Q40...

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  • lotas
    replied
    Try these dumps for t-con (25q80).
    Attached Files

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  • lotas
    replied
    Originally posted by Beard dwarf View Post



    If this is not the original dump, then why is it also corrupted? I hope this is the original. Maybe you're right.
    A working Dump is damaged immediately after power is applied, if the status register (0x88, 0x42) is not set after writing; if the service center did not do this, then it is damaged again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beard dwarf
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post

    What is the motherboard number BN94-xxxxx, and what is the panel number CYxxxxxx?

    If the TV was already at the service center, then it is possible that the 25Q40 already had a non-original dump, maybe they tried to program it without saving the original one..

    BN94-12398F
    CY-KK040HGNV2H

    If this is not the original dump, then why is it also corrupted? I hope this is the original. Maybe you're right.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Originally posted by Beard dwarf View Post

    Thank you, lotas, but it didn't help.
    This is my home TV. When it broke, I took it to a service center. They diagnosed it as a broken processor.
    I repair other electronics and am not an expert in TVs, but this seemed strange to me. So I decided to try it myself.

    In 25q40, I found that the firmware start was missing and searching the forums suggested that this was a common problem. But fixing this problem resulted in the standby voltage appearing, the TV started to turn on, but there was no image.
    Scratches on 25Q80 indicate that they tried to flash it without unsoldering it. This makes me think that I will have to further improve my skills in TV repair.
    What is the motherboard number BN94-xxxxx, and what is the panel number CYxxxxxx?

    If the TV was already at the service center, then it is possible that the 25Q40 already had a non-original dump, maybe they tried to program it without saving the original one..
    Last edited by lotas; 12-29-2024, 12:02 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beard dwarf
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post

    Try.
    Thank you, lotas, but it didn't help.
    This is my home TV. When it broke, I took it to a service center. They diagnosed it as a broken processor.
    I repair other electronics and am not an expert in TVs, but this seemed strange to me. So I decided to try it myself.

    In 25q40, I found that the firmware start was missing and searching the forums suggested that this was a common problem. But fixing this problem resulted in the standby voltage appearing, the TV started to turn on, but there was no image.
    Scratches on 25Q80 indicate that they tried to flash it without unsoldering it. This makes me think that I will have to further improve my skills in TV repair.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Originally posted by Beard dwarf View Post
    SAMSUNG UE40MU6402
    There is no standby mode. I tried to fix the firmware myself, the standby mode appeared, but when I turn on the image there is no. Maybe I did it wrong.
    Can anyone help?
    Try.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Beard dwarf
    replied
    SAMSUNG UE40MU6402
    There is no standby mode. I tried to fix the firmware myself, the standby mode appeared, but when I turn on the image there is no. Maybe I did it wrong.
    Can anyone help?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pc
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post


    If you are looking for a new motherboard, look for the number on the white paper tag, it is BN-94-xxxxx, so that there are fewer compatibility problems with your panel.
    I haven't made the purchase yet, but I'm grateful once again for this important tip.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.Pc View Post
    Since then you've helped me until now, so it wasn't a lack of help. I'm going to try to buy another motherboard. Have a good day!

    If you are looking for a new motherboard, look for the number on the white paper tag, it is BN-94-xxxxx, so that there are fewer compatibility problems with your panel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pc
    replied
    Since then you've helped me until now, so it wasn't a lack of help. I'm going to try to buy another motherboard. Have a good day!

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied

    I don't know how else to help you...

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pc
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post
    Something may be shorting on this bus, what resistance on this bus is not low, maybe an inductor (turn-to-turn short circuit). eeprom 24 series does not have a status register.
    Hello! I replaced the inductor and it was back to normal. I believe that when I went to remove it I heated it too much and it must have ruined it. On the 24c the LED was blinking the same way. I did both with your dump and mine again.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Something may be shorting on this bus, what resistance on this bus is not low, maybe an inductor (turn-to-turn short circuit). eeprom 24 series does not have a status register.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pc
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post
    First erase the chip, then program the bin file, maybe after your experiments this eeprom is damaged, try without it, the power will not rise to 3.3v, is the chip soldered correctly?
    Got it! The 24c is soldered correctly. I turned on the board without it and the regulator still gets quite hot, so I removed the inductor and it doesn't heat up anymore, but I believe that something really happened in these tests because when I put the inductor in, both the regulator and the inductor start to heat up again. I'm going to change the inductor tomorrow to see what happens because I don't have equipment to measure inductance. Regarding deleting the 24c, when I open the recorder program, the option to delete it becomes unavailable, so I can only load the .bin file and program.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    First erase the chip, then program the bin file, maybe after your experiments this eeprom is damaged, try without it, the power will not rise to 3.3v, is the chip soldered correctly?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pc
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post

    Yes, it is damaged, try recording a dump on it, the one I posted here on 24C512.
    I made the recording, but it didn't work. Now the LED no longer blinks, the regulator that was previously oscillating between 2.5v and 3.3v is now between 1.12v and 1.11v and getting very hot. I took the 24c off again and put the old software on, but it persisted the same way. To program the 24c, just load the .bin and click on program, right?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pc
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post

    Yes, it is damaged, try recording a dump on it, the one I posted here on 24C512.
    Right! I'll do it now and I'll be back here to tell you.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotas
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.Pc View Post

    Forgiveness! It was my lack of attention . I managed to read it now.
    Yes, it is damaged, try recording a dump on it, the one I posted here on 24C512.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pc
    replied
    Originally posted by lotas View Post

    Yes, why do you always have 25, it should be 24, I wrote above that you need to write 24C512, or is the number “4” button on your keyboard not working?
    Forgiveness! It was my lack of attention . I managed to read it now.
    Attached Files

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  • lotas
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.Pc View Post

    I had already done this, but another error occurred. (check id error) So as I didn't know what it was, I was afraid to continue.
    Yes, why do you always have 25, it should be 24, I wrote above that you need to write 24C512, or is the number “4” button on your keyboard not working?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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