R31 the larger resistor is 27 ohms (red,violet, black, gold)
I could not locate R68. On my pc board your arrow points to R62 which is 51 ohms (green,brown,black,gold). Check again and see if the resistor is R68 or R62.
Old proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)
Hi. mr. elerell. thank you very much for helping me to solved a problem regarding the 2 resisters color code which was burn damaged. i have not resolding yet whether my power supply can work or not. Any way 1 wish to said thankfull for your help.
Can anyone help me with the schematic for FSP300-60ATV? Or at least let me know what the manufacturer part number of Q7 is? Q7 seems to have blown when i connected it to a 230V supply :-(
Can anyone help me with the schematic for FSP300-60ATV? Or at least let me know what the manufacturer part number of Q7 is? Q7 seems to have blown when i connected it to a 230V supply :-(
I have FSP350-60PN which stopped working after long time of no using it at all.
Several condensators were broken. One was totally dead even it wasn't pulled out at all.
There was also one resistor which looked like it had been little too warm, but i think it was R32 not R31. It was 7,9 Ohms and what was left of the colors, we decided it was 15 ohm resistor.
I decided to write this down here even its an old thread if someone someday needs the info
Voltages seemd to be ok i guess. Just a little difference. I tried the o-scope, but i have to say that i don't understand anything about what it means.
I will add the pictures if you can say something about those =)
I changed the resistor R32 to 1,5 ohms, but decided about the smell that it is too small =) Voltages got little bit better. 12v was 12,2 and so on.
And the operating system is win 7 64 bit. I think i'll try clean install with win 8 and if it doesn't make any difference, i will buy new psu.
Just obtained a Power Q ATX-350GU. Looking inside, the pc board was identical to the Fortron FSP300-60ATV. Next, I determined that the fan was stuck.....totally stuck. Pictures show that there is some heat damage, A few bulging capacitors were changed before making the pictures. I decided it would be worthwhile to look at the esr of all of the capacitors to determine what damage a stuck fan does to all of the capacitors, including the ones that "looked" OK. So here is what I found.
C25 Teapo 3300uF/16V Bulging esr=17 12 volt output
C23 Teapo 1000uF/10V Bulging esr>99 5vsb pi input
C26 Teapo 1000uF/10V Bulging esr=4.5 5vsb pi output
C29 OST 3300uF/10V not bulging esr=.02 5 volt pi input
C28 OST 3300uF/10V not bulging esr=.02 5 volt pi output
C33 Teapo 1000uF/10V bulging esr=8.1 3.3 volt pi input
C34 Teapo 2200uF/10V bulging esr=5.6 3.3 volt pi output
C5 Teapo 1uF/50V not bulging esr>99 cap=500nF between driver and main switching transistor
C6 Teapo 1 uF/50V not bulging esr>99 cap=625nF between driver and other main switching transistor
C30 Jamicon 220uF/16V not bulging esr=4.6
C31 Jamicon 220uF/16V not bulging esr=.64
C21 Teapo 1uF/50V not bulging esr=6.1
C12 OST 4.7uF/50V not bulging esr=9.6
C20 Teapo 22uF/50V not bulging esr=6.7
C24 Teapo 10uF/50V not bulging esr=11
C22 Teapo 10uF/50V not bulging esr=18
C17 Teapo 2.2uF/50V not bulging esr=9.2
As a result of all these "non bulging" small capacitors with high esr, I decided to go ahead and replace ALL of the capacitors on this board. My conclusion: stuck fan plus some obvious heat damage on the pc board means all capacitors probably have high esr.....to high for comfort!
Attached Files
Old proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)
As a result of all these "non bulging" small capacitors with high esr, I decided to go ahead and replace ALL of the capacitors on this board.
Thanks to this Fortron FSP300-60ATV power supply, I got two "non working" Acer branded PCs with quad core processors for free. After some diagnosis, I discovered both had an obviously bulging capacitor on the 5V standby.
As I mentioned before, I admire the time and effort you take to desolder everything off just to get to the caps. I hate working in the ATX PSU cramped space, but I don't have patience, skill or proper tools to remove the heat sinks, power transistors, etc and then spend all that time (and money) installing 17 new capacitors.
If I had that power supply, one look at 5 bulging capacitors and all that heat damage on the pcb would have been enough for me to send it to the recyclers.
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Hi - Not sure if this is thread jumping - I will start another if required and edit this away
I have a Fortron FSP 350-60HLC that was working fine last week and now as members seem to like to say is dead! Came to me in a free PC which I was told occasionally blue screened.
Thankfully it looks very little like your recent picture, everell - in fact apart from a bit of dust it looks pristine. As retired caps says I dont think I could have faced one that looked like yours.
Anyway as you recently posted I thought I would just slip in and ask for a little ( or maybe a lot) of help. I have replaced caps in power supplies before and maybe I could have saved this before it broke had I put two and two together re the blue screening. As it didnt happen to me and it let me load windows xp and stayed on a fair while uploading a million updates I never gave it a thought.
It got put aside while I played with something else. I then actually needed an xp pc that would run a program that wont run in 7 so got it out and
was gobsmacked when it wouldnt switch on.
So opened it up and sure enough the capxon 2200uf 6.3v caps were all crusty on top ( cant believe it ran at all!) Great - replaced them including the one in a jacket by the heatsink and a couple of 1000uf 16v ones that looked slightly domed.
No go !! at least I think not - jumped a green and black connected the fan and a hard drive for a bit of load and -Nothing! ( Might try on a motherboard)
Power is good up to the BIG cap and it has 5.12v on one of the 20pin p ins so I guess that is standby only as there is nothing on 5v or 12v output to hard drive socket. So my question is what can I test with a multimeter without having to remove the heatsinks and unsolder the major components.
I realise it may come to that but you have to be in the right state of mind to do that sort of thing. It didnt start well in that when I tried to unsolder the wire from the mains switch, before the wire unsoldered the body of the switch melted and the tag and switch contact came away still attached to the wire.
Its all good practice as I have a Zalman 600HP which actually looks very similar inside same crap 2200uf 6.3v but sports a row of 5mm!! teapos and has bigger heatsinks and a radiator.
Anyway reminder of the question:
What can I test with a multimeter without having to remove the heatsinks and unsolder the major components and what order would you test them in.
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Haha - I will have a read - lost a few more brain cells since then These power supplies frighten me - monitors you can lay the boards out and get at everything (almost) these things, by the time you have a light in one hand and magnifying glass in the other its hard to get the meter probes anywhere. As for powering them on I stand well back and use an extension cable and switch on from 10 feet away. I feel like a total newbie.
Edit
Told you Id lost a few cells - you mean everell helped you. - I was an on looker.
Anyway I will study that thread as well.
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It's of GLN origin or OEM design of Fortron Bluestorm II we are dealing with in next thread. Start with replacing ALL the caps in +5 V SB circuitry, incl. probably a 100 uF/16 (25 V) cap in the middle next to the heatsink (use the further position, not so much heat there - there are 2 positions in parallel) and some other small cap on the PWM IC. Also replace the 1N4007 diode on the primary side of the stand-by rail with some super/ultrafast diode as everell suggests.
As for the rest, I can supply you with NCC KZH 1000 uF/16 V D8x20 mm caps, best by far (and one of two) possible replacements for those D8 crapxons.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
This thread has the schematics you will need for troubleshooting this power supply. Perhaps behemot and I can help both you and perhanson to get these power supplies running again.
Pay close attention to the two diodes I talked about in this thread. Both should be high speed switching diodes, but in my power supply of the same type, both were slow poke 1N4007 diodes.
I never saw this thread or I would have gone straight there !!
I will continue on there but may take a while as looking at the pic in post10
set my confidence back again . I will do some tests and then report back
Thanks everyone for the encouragement and input so far
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