I checked that - they match up with the 2003 design,but not the 2005 design.
Well, if ghetto-modding is not a problem, you can always put some wires on the transformer pins and then wire it properly to the board (thought I don't really recommend doing that, other than for experimenting and fun).
Any ideas how much this can do? It has TO-220 package 13009s(and true 13009s at that - they have the Fairchild logo)and the secondary side has 2 20A rectifiers in parallel for 5v,30A for 3.3v and I think 16A for 12v. Oh yeah,it's been recapped as well.
I still would not push it over 250-275 Watts continuous. Maybe 300 Watts peak at the most (do at your own risk!)
Well what do I have to do after removing the voltage booster? I know on another PSU I have with the same PCB (a old Premier LC-C400ATX) has some jumpers in there.
Just have the bridge rectifier positive (+) and negative (-) terminals going straight to the primary capacitors - that is all really.
Or just open any of your other half-bridge PSUs that DON'T have that circuit, and wire this PSU the same way. It's not that complicated, really.
It seems to me a lie, that a 20 year old fountain is better finished than many PSU that are sold at a price range of $ 20. I'll buy an ATX extender, 1 SATA adapter and an ATX12, the PSU deserve a second chance.
Yeah, that .1A +5VSB current rating really limits that PSU's usefulness. It's almost 20 years old. The PL series was pretty top end back then, not sure if the PW series was around yet. OTOH, I think there was at least one newer series than the LK series, which is rated for +85C. Love all those gorgeous Thomson CSF 5 mm lead spacing metallized polyester caps! And the -52 material output inductor cores are good, too. Astec made some good stuff! I'm sure that 200W rating was absolutely realistic. But as Behemot pointed out, the +12V O/P is pretty weak.
Hypothetically, you could replace those +85C I/P caps, and even replace the PLs with parts of the RoHS-compliant version PM series. You might even be able to fiddle the rectifiers and feedback circuit to get an extra amp or two from the +12V. But that .1A rated +5VSB pretty much makes that PSU a museum piece, sadly.
PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
****************************
To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
****************************
Yeah, that .1A +5VSB current rating really limits that PSU's usefulness. It's almost 20 years old. The PL series was pretty top end back then, not sure if the PW series was around yet. OTOH, I think there was at least one newer series than the LK series, which is rated for +85C. Love all those gorgeous Thomson CSF 5 mm lead spacing metallized polyester caps! And the -52 material output inductor cores are good, too. Astec made some good stuff! I'm sure that 200W rating was absolutely realistic. But as Behemot pointed out, the +12V O/P is pretty weak.
Hypothetically, you could replace those +85C I/P caps, and even replace the PLs with parts of the RoHS-compliant version PM series. You might even be able to fiddle the rectifiers and feedback circuit to get an extra amp or two from the +12V. But that .1A rated +5VSB pretty much makes that PSU a museum piece, sadly.
Already, it is a pity, because the PSU is a marvel for your time. Although no problem, I'll mount it with a motherboard with an intel pentium 2/3 (I think you can), even for a classic gaming computer.
With the polyester metalized you left me amazed, I had not realized that they were thomson.
Well, if it is a relic, I will save it for my Pentium, so far I have not thought about modifying it, because if it works with my 2/3 pentium I prefer not to modify it.
The inductors surprised me by the large size, the truth is that to be 20 years is very well finished, and as you say, is a PSU that actually delivers the 200W.
I could say that it has an 80 gold efficiency xD.
Thanks for the info .
Just don't enable any Wake by… devices, the stand-by rail is weak for that. And if the motherboard has such option, set USB power to +5 V rail.
When it was mounted on the original computer (it had 2 USB ports), when I connected a USB the computer froze, now I understand why.
The board was ATX with an intel pentium MMX.
What I have thought, is to put a supplementary power of 5V (exemple using iphone charger plug) or make a bridge from the 5V line (22A) to the 5VSB (0.1A), disconnecting the original 5v 0.1A, I think it will be enough to be able to start without problems.
Just be careful with that, strange currents running where they should not can kill controllers. Especially this old HW which did not have so many protections built in. Maybe insulated regulator from 12 V would be safer.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Just be careful with that, strange currents running where they should not can kill controllers. Especially this old HW which did not have so many protections built in. Maybe insulated regulator from 12 V would be safer.
Already, it is a pity, because the PSU is a marvel for your time. ...
With the polyester metalized you left me amazed, I had not realized that they were thomson.
Well, if it is a relic, I will save it for my Pentium, so far I have not thought about modifying it, because if it works with my 2/3 pentium I prefer not to modify it.
The inductors surprised me by the large size, the truth is that to be 20 years is very well finished, and as you say, is a PSU that actually delivers the 200W.
I could say that it has an 80 gold efficiency xD.
Thanks for the info .
I've worked in P/Ss most of my career. I recognized the Thomson caps right away, and from the text of your post remembered that the Nichicon LK series is 85C (the 105C series was GK). I used those and the then new PL series in a new design back in the late 80s, IIRC. Astec was one of the two largest P/S manufacturers in the world around that time, and Delta Products was the other. I worked for Delta in the late 90s, but Astec was a competitor for whom I had significant respect.
What I really liked about those 5mm lead space polyester box caps was that they were good quality, and there were several sources - Thomson, Roederstein, Wima, Evox, and Rifa come to mind. Roederstein and Wima also made 2.5mm lead space polyester box caps.
PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
****************************
To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
****************************
Found this PSU from HP XW9300. Along with its case. I plan to put my 6700k and GA-Z170X-Designare into it's case.. and swap 12V-C rail pin to 12V-CPU_0 and 12V-CPU_1. 12V-C 12.5A would be CPU rail, and 12V-CPU_0 and 12V-CPU_1 12.6A as 6+2 pin x 2 repectedly. Hopes it's enough to power my Windforce R9 290. Without further ado let's we look into it's content.
Those two primary sense resistors are overheating, I suggest performing the flying resistor mod.
As for the OCP, you can also just bridge the output, or replace the current shunts with wire, and make it single-rail, relying on the OPP
Thanks for suggestion sadly I didn't familiar with flying resistor mod i'll try to google it. As for the rail I didn't wan't to modify anything in aside from cable swapping the 12V-C 6 pin and 12V-CPU_0 and 12V-CPU_1 CPU pin.
I have thinking to bypass all 12V rail to the rail sources though but I fear it will fry my pc.. too bad the combined 12V rail had a 55amps max wich is more than enough for modern PC setup with power hungry VGA..
Is it safe? To combine all 12V rail into one giving they have same sources.. only seperate by OCP.
Just solder longer leads on them, it is also good to add some heatshrink tubing for insulation (especially in this case with full voltage on them), and let them be further from the board, more in the airstream.
As for the OCP, you can also swap them for some with tiny bit lower resistance to allow for higher currents.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
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