Re: Recapping a bad EnerMax NoiseTaker II Model EG701AX-VE(W) PSU
I'll read the articles you linked to, thank you so much! Once my wife is done down in the basement (I'm watching the baby now), I'll take some pics of the white stuff I'm talking about. It's not the same brown glue looking stuff that's on the donut looking things. It's like a white powder, kinda like what anthrax looks like. It almost looks like it is or was alive and grew there. You know when you don't got good water and you boil a pot of water to evaporate all the water? The white stuff that's left in the bottom of the pot, that's what this looks like.
For the cost cutting, that was in reference to the PC, not the power supply. I learned a while ago that a cheap power supply can ruin a motherboard. I talked to the customer just now. He definitely wants me to go through with the recapping, so long as it doesn't cost more than 50$ he says. He says he will put this recapped PSU in his computer and switch his power supply with this one. He's giving this computer to a friend, remember? I think they made some sort of deal. He says in his other computer, it's a Rosewill PSU. So this HP Envy H8 will get the Rosewill and this Enermax will go into his other PC.
So that large PFC Booster cap is the Hitachi capacitor? Okay.
I should have worded my words a bit differently with the polymers I was going to use. I believe there's four different types, and I just wanted to make sure people knew what type I was going to use. I should have just called them polymer aluminum capacitors. Layered use conductive polymer as the electrolyte, from what I understand, but yes, that would definitely throw off a new person trying to learn. I should have just called them polymer aluminum or aluminum polymer capacitors, and not used the word electrolytic in there. They don't have a liquid electrolyte in them, like the other types, that's why I was using the words dry and wet, respectively. Sorry about all that.
Originally posted by ChaosLegionnaire
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im afraid there is no easy way to do this. one way would be to buy a cheap pentium 4 1.6ghz to 2.4ghz system. it pulls some juice on startup around 125w but not so much that it causes problems even for less well built units. its cheap so if the psu blows it, no loss. then scope the output on the atx connector using the oscillopscope to check for excess ripple/noise.
the second method suggested by another member was to use several high-powered 12v or higher voltage dc light bulbs. connect them to the 3.3v, 5v and 12v rail of the psu in differing combination setups to simulate different loads on each respective rail. this can check if the psu has crossloading issues or high-load issues among other things while scoping for ripple with the analogue oscilloscope. u should check johnny guru's website on how they test power supplies for review. u can learn how to properly certify a psu is working according to atx standards.
read up these articles from hardware secrets about how SMPS (switching mode power supples) work:
Anatomy of Switching Power Supplies
Everything You Need to Know About Power Supplies
these will answer your questions.
didnt u say later on in your post u wanted to only replace what was necessary in an attempt to cost cut smartly? the hitachi japcap is fine and doesnt need replacing. just leave it. a dollar saved is a dollar earned.
these are general purpose high voltage caps so no esr or impedance is stated. general purpose caps are used as pfc booster caps so u dont need to match esr/impedance for the primary or pfc booster cap. just match the voltage, capacitance and ripple rating.
for pc psus, yes thats another name for it.
a what?! while i like wikipedia and the wealth of information in it, sometimes poorly written stuff like that oxymoron comes up. a polymer is a solid, an electrolyte is a liquid. how can something be both a liquid and a solid at the same time?! it doesnt make sense and hence an oxymoron.
granted there are hybrid caps that use both solid polymer and liquid electrolyte in them. those should be called hybrid or functional polymer caps. calling it a "polymer electrolytic capacitor" is just plain confusing to newbies. or it could be like dmill said, only modern recent designs use polymers. older designs can only handle electrolytics.
no. they just consider themselves to be a branded name and so charge a premium for their stuff. each of these brands all have their own 10k hour cap so as far as japcaps are concerned just go with the cheapest one with equal specs. u cant go wrong with any of the big four japcap companies.
you are talking about cost/corner cutting smartly. that is fine. not over-charging a customer is something clients will appreciate and keep them coming back. a returning customer is great for having a steady business!
to do that, u have to post pics of your psu so it is good u did that. from there we can recommend u where to pony up the dough for 10k hour caps for example. first, u notice the three bulged caps u had? take note of where they are located and replace them with 10k hour caps. this is called learning from experience and past failures. when u notice caps bulging/failing, it means they are in a stressful area so u need the longest lasting cap there to prempt any repeat failures.
second, take note of caps located near or under the heatsinks as well as caps buried inside a mountain of cabling. these are areas where caps tend to get cooked. so caps in those spots need the longest lasting cap there as well.
uh oh. are u sure its white? it looks yellowish, brownish or tan to me in the photos. be warned, it could be the infamous conductive glue. many a good power supply has been fried and shorted after some time because of that stupid glue. the glue btw, is to hold the components down in place during wave soldering at the factory. dont want stuff falling off during soldering!! or dropping into the molten solder and getting fried!
if its yellowish, brownish or tan glue, u must scrape off that shit. the psu could have failed because the glue turned conductive and shorted something out. in the event u cant scape it off completely, just make sure its not touching or bridging an adjacent component where it could short that other component out.
the second method suggested by another member was to use several high-powered 12v or higher voltage dc light bulbs. connect them to the 3.3v, 5v and 12v rail of the psu in differing combination setups to simulate different loads on each respective rail. this can check if the psu has crossloading issues or high-load issues among other things while scoping for ripple with the analogue oscilloscope. u should check johnny guru's website on how they test power supplies for review. u can learn how to properly certify a psu is working according to atx standards.
read up these articles from hardware secrets about how SMPS (switching mode power supples) work:
Anatomy of Switching Power Supplies
Everything You Need to Know About Power Supplies
these will answer your questions.
didnt u say later on in your post u wanted to only replace what was necessary in an attempt to cost cut smartly? the hitachi japcap is fine and doesnt need replacing. just leave it. a dollar saved is a dollar earned.
these are general purpose high voltage caps so no esr or impedance is stated. general purpose caps are used as pfc booster caps so u dont need to match esr/impedance for the primary or pfc booster cap. just match the voltage, capacitance and ripple rating.
for pc psus, yes thats another name for it.
a what?! while i like wikipedia and the wealth of information in it, sometimes poorly written stuff like that oxymoron comes up. a polymer is a solid, an electrolyte is a liquid. how can something be both a liquid and a solid at the same time?! it doesnt make sense and hence an oxymoron.
granted there are hybrid caps that use both solid polymer and liquid electrolyte in them. those should be called hybrid or functional polymer caps. calling it a "polymer electrolytic capacitor" is just plain confusing to newbies. or it could be like dmill said, only modern recent designs use polymers. older designs can only handle electrolytics.
no. they just consider themselves to be a branded name and so charge a premium for their stuff. each of these brands all have their own 10k hour cap so as far as japcaps are concerned just go with the cheapest one with equal specs. u cant go wrong with any of the big four japcap companies.
you are talking about cost/corner cutting smartly. that is fine. not over-charging a customer is something clients will appreciate and keep them coming back. a returning customer is great for having a steady business!
to do that, u have to post pics of your psu so it is good u did that. from there we can recommend u where to pony up the dough for 10k hour caps for example. first, u notice the three bulged caps u had? take note of where they are located and replace them with 10k hour caps. this is called learning from experience and past failures. when u notice caps bulging/failing, it means they are in a stressful area so u need the longest lasting cap there to prempt any repeat failures.
second, take note of caps located near or under the heatsinks as well as caps buried inside a mountain of cabling. these are areas where caps tend to get cooked. so caps in those spots need the longest lasting cap there as well.
uh oh. are u sure its white? it looks yellowish, brownish or tan to me in the photos. be warned, it could be the infamous conductive glue. many a good power supply has been fried and shorted after some time because of that stupid glue. the glue btw, is to hold the components down in place during wave soldering at the factory. dont want stuff falling off during soldering!! or dropping into the molten solder and getting fried!
if its yellowish, brownish or tan glue, u must scrape off that shit. the psu could have failed because the glue turned conductive and shorted something out. in the event u cant scape it off completely, just make sure its not touching or bridging an adjacent component where it could short that other component out.
For the cost cutting, that was in reference to the PC, not the power supply. I learned a while ago that a cheap power supply can ruin a motherboard. I talked to the customer just now. He definitely wants me to go through with the recapping, so long as it doesn't cost more than 50$ he says. He says he will put this recapped PSU in his computer and switch his power supply with this one. He's giving this computer to a friend, remember? I think they made some sort of deal. He says in his other computer, it's a Rosewill PSU. So this HP Envy H8 will get the Rosewill and this Enermax will go into his other PC.
So that large PFC Booster cap is the Hitachi capacitor? Okay.
I should have worded my words a bit differently with the polymers I was going to use. I believe there's four different types, and I just wanted to make sure people knew what type I was going to use. I should have just called them polymer aluminum capacitors. Layered use conductive polymer as the electrolyte, from what I understand, but yes, that would definitely throw off a new person trying to learn. I should have just called them polymer aluminum or aluminum polymer capacitors, and not used the word electrolytic in there. They don't have a liquid electrolyte in them, like the other types, that's why I was using the words dry and wet, respectively. Sorry about all that.
Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts 
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