I removed the coil (between 2x 6,8 uF 400 V).
And the short-circuit disappear (test with a series light bulb).
The diodes and the first 6,8 uF-400 V ok - the first cap has hundred volts
Insert again the coil and removed the second 6,8 uF 400 V ... short on.
I removed the coil (between 2x 6,8 uF 400 V).
And the short-circuit disappear (test with a series light bulb).
The diodes and the first 6,8 uF-400 V ok - the first cap has hundred volts
Insert again the coil and removed the second 6,8 uF 400 V ... short on.
I can´t see any faults in the pictures you provided - they are to blurry.
You must understand that it´s impossible for us to help you (or any other member) without proper information and, in most cases, clear pictures. Otherwise it´s like telling a blind person how the color red looks like ....
I don't know if this is any use but here's my Nokia AC-10C guts:
Fairly common 2-transistor optoisolated feedback design with fullwave rectifier. This one works actually, but the problem I had with it turned out to be mechanical...
The L10 is very low and the reading is very nH ... its strange
Hi,
Transistor (in circuit)
Z= 114 Ohm, 4.941 Ohm, 116 Ohm
4 Diodes
Z= 928.9 Ohm, 926 Ohm
Different model and (its working) the Transitor Z=172 KOhm between legs.
If I put in AUTO MODE the "Smart Tweezers"
Transistor - in good unit - 929 pF or 12 uF
In bad unit always Z=116 Ohm and 4,941 Ohm
The 10 ohm resistor is used as a half-assed replacement for a regular fuse, because it is cheaper
Can you get some good pictures?
I had a charger once where I had replaced the primary cap. I didn't notice it at the time, but I had a solder bridge across it. I plugged it in and the resistor burnt up. Thinking it wasn't important, I jumpered it and plugged the charger in again. The bridge rectifier promptly exploded and tripped the breaker as well.
Leave a comment: