Microsoft Surface Laptop Studio Model 1964

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  • n24688
    New Member
    • Sep 2023
    • 2
    • USA

    #1

    Microsoft Surface Laptop Studio Model 1964

    Looking for boardview and schematics for a Microsoft Surface Laptop Studio 1st gen (i7 11370H 3050Ti).
    I have one device that is no accepting any power, and I don't see anything obviously wrong on the motherboard. The battery connector has some bent pins, and I am curious if this requires a battery to be connected to accept any AC power or turn on.
  • noipi
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2017
    • 71
    • Singapore

    #2
    Re: Microsoft Surface Laptop Studio Model 1964

    i need also this MSLS model 1964. anyone has? thanks

    Comment

    • brightest_z
      Member
      • Nov 2024
      • 17
      • USA

      #3
      Bump. Does anyone have Surface Studio Laptop schematics? model 1964

      Comment

      • brightest_z
        Member
        • Nov 2024
        • 17
        • USA

        #4
        Well, I did my best. Got the new bin on and bios on board, but blew away two tiny caps or resistors in the process. Looks like I'll be on the hunt for a new motherboard. :-(

        Attached Files

        Comment

        • inwerp
          New Member
          • Jan 2012
          • 8
          • Germany

          #5
          why would you need a new board?
          both are 33 ohm, thats quite common.

          Comment

          • brightest_z
            Member
            • Nov 2024
            • 17
            • USA

            #6
            Originally posted by inwerp
            why would you need a new board?
            both are 33 ohm, thats quite common.
            33ohm is common for these? Maybe that's my problem then. I'm going to see if I can source some. You don't happen to have a link where I can learn more about the 33ohm resistor being the standard for these chips do you?

            Comment

            • inwerp
              New Member
              • Jan 2012
              • 8
              • Germany

              #7
              Originally posted by brightest_z

              33ohm is common for these? Maybe that's my problem then. I'm going to see if I can source some. You don't happen to have a link where I can learn more about the 33ohm resistor being the standard for these chips do you?
              well, to be honest it is a bit hard to tell where you start. This is a SPI chip and using 10-30 ohm straps are common for signal lines. It is generally what you see when you work on laptops.

              Surface laptops are definitely not easy devices to work on, even with some amount of experience. if this is your device, you can try to do that, however, for example, flashing bios is not that universal repair method, it solves probably 1-5% of devices with no power. close to zero on some brands. The reason it tends to look that way is that there are numerous amount of youtube “experts” who cherry pick easy fix cases to attract audience.

              Unless you have a reason so suspect that firmware is damaged, there is no reason to do anything with SPI. this one has no boardview and schematics, so fixing that would be difficult even if you are very familiar with surface laptops.

              there are few keypoints that might make people to try to "repair" a perfectly working machine :

              1. most of surface devices have some sort of port-detection - they require display, SSD, sometimes keyboard to be connected to be able to turn on. there is an actual circuit preventing very basic power rails to be generated unless connectors are stuffed.

              2. some surface laptops do not turn on or charge from usbc if battery is not activated. to activate battery you need to plug in magsafe charger.

              3. if your surface turns on and shows logo, it does not mean anything about its BIOS / CPU / GPU condition. The LCD is programmed the way that it will show windows logo on power even if device is completely braindead. it is replaced with real image from the mainboard as soon as it posts. slight blinking of the logo could be spotted.

              nr.3 is probably relevant to you because in my experience most of braindead surfaces i seen had some signs of bios flashing, simply because people thoughts its completely on and just freezes on POST.
              so to sum up.

              • Surface is a bad device to start learning the repair

              • Surface with no schematics / boardview (im here because i looked for one too and it is nowhere to find) is even worse

              • Parts can be sourced from donor boards or from resister books bought on aliexpress.

              • i know it is most likely 33 Ohms not because there is some sacred knowledge but because it is common. such things are the hardest to explain or list per very definition

              maybe give it a bit aside (restore orig bios, broken resisters, put it together with all connectors occupied and retest)

              Comment

              • brightest_z
                Member
                • Nov 2024
                • 17
                • USA

                #8
                Originally posted by inwerp

                well, to be honest it is a bit hard to tell where you start. This is a SPI chip and using 10-30 ohm straps are common for signal lines. It is generally what you see when you work on laptops.

                Surface laptops are definitely not easy devices to work on, even with some amount of experience. if this is your device, you can try to do that, however, for example, flashing bios is not that universal repair method, it solves probably 1-5% of devices with no power. close to zero on some brands. The reason it tends to look that way is that there are numerous amount of youtube “experts” who cherry pick easy fix cases to attract audience.

                Unless you have a reason so suspect that firmware is damaged, there is no reason to do anything with SPI. this one has no boardview and schematics, so fixing that would be difficult even if you are very familiar with surface laptops.

                there are few keypoints that might make people to try to "repair" a perfectly working machine :

                1. most of surface devices have some sort of port-detection - they require display, SSD, sometimes keyboard to be connected to be able to turn on. there is an actual circuit preventing very basic power rails to be generated unless connectors are stuffed.

                2. some surface laptops do not turn on or charge from usbc if battery is not activated. to activate battery you need to plug in magsafe charger.

                3. if your surface turns on and shows logo, it does not mean anything about its BIOS / CPU / GPU condition. The LCD is programmed the way that it will show windows logo on power even if device is completely braindead. it is replaced with real image from the mainboard as soon as it posts. slight blinking of the logo could be spotted.

                nr.3 is probably relevant to you because in my experience most of braindead surfaces i seen had some signs of bios flashing, simply because people thoughts its completely on and just freezes on POST.
                so to sum up.

                • Surface is a bad device to start learning the repair

                • Surface with no schematics / boardview (im here because i looked for one too and it is nowhere to find) is even worse

                • Parts can be sourced from donor boards or from resister books bought on aliexpress.

                • i know it is most likely 33 Ohms not because there is some sacred knowledge but because it is common. such things are the hardest to explain or list per very definition

                maybe give it a bit aside (restore orig bios, broken resisters, put it together with all connectors occupied and retest)
                Got it thank you! This is not my area of expertise though I am handy with electronics. I extracted the flash from the locked bios chip I removed from the board, and worked with a repair shop to have it's unique parameters flashed back onto the new chip with the new chip unlocked. Once I get the 33ohm resistors in, I'll give the repair another try. Thank you for your help!

                Comment

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