Specific Caps Keeps Venting

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  • brassicGamer
    Member
    • Jan 2020
    • 25
    • United Kingdom

    #1

    Specific Caps Keeps Venting

    Hi all. So I've got this neat motherboard. It's an HP version of the Asus TR-DLS, included in the tc3100 server. It was working perfectly fine last time I used it, which was about 4 years ago. It has been in dry storage since and was in perfect cosmetic condition...

    ...except: three of the large caps near the CPU had randomly fallen out. This was due to weak solder joints as I was able to remove another one with very little force. After redoing all the joints for the related caps (competently - no shorts, etc.) and powering up the board, it ran for 2 seconds before one of the caps vented and the board shut down. I thought this was due to physical damage to the cap, so I replaced it. I didn't have an exact match (Rubycon 1200uF, 12V) so I replaced it with something close (Rubycon 1500uF, 12V) and the exact same thing happened.

    Am I right in thinking that this suggests something else is damaged and too much voltage / too many amps are going through the cap in question? I can't see any physical damage, so I'm not really sure where to start. Any help would be gladly appreciated, as this is my dual Tualatin board. Many thanks.





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    Last edited by brassicGamer; 11-22-2021, 06:11 PM. Reason: typo
  • piernov
    Super Moderator
    • Jan 2016
    • 4435
    • France

    #2
    Re: Specific Caps Keeps Venting

    Make sure you oriented them as originally. On most Asus/Pegatron boards the marking for capacitor polarity is reversed.
    Also cap should be 16V not 12V if it's on the VRM input.
    OpenBoardView — https://github.com/OpenBoardView/OpenBoardView

    Comment

    • brassicGamer
      Member
      • Jan 2020
      • 25
      • United Kingdom

      #3
      Re: Specific Caps Keeps Venting

      Originally posted by piernov
      Make sure you oriented them as originally. On most Asus/Pegatron boards the marking for capacitor polarity is reversed.
      Also cap should be 16V not 12V if it's on the VRM input.
      Wow. Thank you. I checked old photos and can confirm the markings are the problem. I hope more damage hasn't been caused. I double-checked and it's definitely 16V btw.

      Comment

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