Hp asus ipibl-lb

[DarkInferno]

Figured I should make my own thread..

I have a ASUS IPIBL-LB running an intel xeon e5450.

It has started to hang... and then recover after a while.

Had a quick look at the board and found a bad cap next to the northbridge, an NCC KZG 6.3V 820uF

Reading on here it would seem KZG's aren't held in the highest regard so I figure I better get them all out... took my board out the case (no mean feat, the board is full and the case it tiny) and looked it over... found several KZG's



(excuse the typo of KZG/NZG)

I assume I leave the Panasonics and the non KZG NCC's alone.

Doing a bit of research on here leads me to

NCC KZG 16V 1000uF KZG16VB102M8X20LL 8x20mm esr-0.021 ripple-1,870

NCC KZG 16V 470uF KZG16VB471M8X11LL 8x11.5mm esr-0.036 ripple-1,140

NCC KZG 6.3V 820uF KZG6.3VB821M8X11LL 8x11.5mm esr-0.036 ripple-1,140

So now I'm looking for 13 suitable caps..

I can't seem to work out what are suitable caps... any help please?

Thanks in advance,

Dark.

[momaka]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

I think I answered some of your question in another thread, so I will just link that here:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=23

Here's just a short version of the answer to your questions in that other thread:

If not what would be a suitable cap? or do I try to get a match?

Nichicon: HM, HN, and HZ series
Rubycon: MBZ and MCZ series
Panasonic: FL series (you won't find these for sale but you can pull them from a dead board if you have one)

I strongly suggest you replace every Chemicon KZG cap on your board. Also, if you have Chemicon KZJ, those need to go too. On the other hand, KZE and KMG (small brown caps) are OK, and you can leave them.

Here are some caps that could work...
5x 16V 1000uF KZG replacements:
https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=45

7x 6.3V 820uF KZG replacements:
https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=163

1x 16V 470uF KZG replacement:
https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=148

[DarkInferno]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

Right I'm going to leave this here to help anybody else...

After having trouble finding suitable electrolytics I ended up swapping out for polys.


Original : 5 x NCC KZG 16V 1000μF KZG16VB102M8X20LL 8x20mm esr-0.021 ripple-1,870
New : 5 x Wurth WCAP-PTG5 270μF 16V 8x8mm esr-0.012 ripple-4500

Original : 7 x NCC KZG 6.3V 820μF KZG6.3VB821M8X11LL 8x11.5mm esr-0.036 ripple-1,140
New : 7 x Wurth WCAP-PTG5 820μF 6.3V 8x8mm esr-0.012 ripple-5100

Original : 1 x NCC KZG 16V 470μF KZG16VB471M8X11LL 8x11.5mm esr-0.036 ripple-1,140
New : 1 x Wurth WCAP-PTG5 470μF 16V 8x11.5mm esr-0.012 ripple-5000

They have only been in for a few hours but certainly seem happy and stable.

I'll report back with any further developments.

[momaka]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

Nice poly mod there. Should work great provided those poly caps are high quality. I never heard of Wurth Elektronik. Sounds a bit German, though.

[BabyBenicia]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

Hi there.
I am completely new to the world of attempting to replace capacitors (or anything, for that matter) on my motherboard. But I'm determined to learn, and there's got to be a first time for everything. This machine is my first project/obsession in PC repair, so please feel free to tell me if it's insane to consider replacing caps at this point. Friends tell me it's very doable, but I'm open to second opinions. If this is too involved for a novice, I'll just replace the mb.

Anyway, I have an ASUS IPIBL-LB with two bulging capacitors (one beside the northbridge, same as DarkInferno above). The machine has been spontaneously restarting at random times, sometimes freezing or restarting more than once before even loading Windows, giving weird pulsating lines across the display before restarting unexpectedly, getting progressively worse. Judging by what I've read here, I'm guessing the bad capacitors are to blame.

Both of my bulging caps are the KZG 6.3V 820uF, and after reading this thread I'm thinking of trying to replace all of the KZGs if possible. I have exactly the same 13 KZG caps DarkInferno listed, and was thinking it might miraculously be as easy as to order the replacements recommended by momaka above and be good to go!

But since that post was a while back, I see that the recommended replacements for the 6.3V 820uF and the 16V 470uF KZGs are "product not found."

Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but would it work to try these ones below instead? Looks like they're of a different series than recommended above, but I do not know what the difference is.

Can I replace KZG 6.3V 820uF caps with these?

https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=49

And the 16V 470uF KZG with these?

https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=51

If not, any other wisdom or recommendations would be so greatly appreciated. Thanks for being here.

BB



(ps., for good measure I am going to replace the old power supply too.)

[momaka]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

This machine is my first project/obsession in PC repair, so please feel free to tell me if it's insane to consider replacing caps at this point. Friends tell me it's very doable, but I'm open to second opinions. If this is too involved for a novice, I'll just replace the mb.

It's not *that* involved (depending on how much you value your time), but for a novice, it is possible to take 2-3 hours the first time. That said, a lot will depend on the soldering iron you have. For motherboards, I recommend 50-60 Watts minimum, and preferably one with a chisel tip. For clearing the capacitor holes, a stainless-steel needle will work the best. Also, make sure to get some flux separate from the solder (liquid or gel both okay) - just make sure it is regular Rosin flux or RMA at most. Avoid any type of "plumber's flux", as those are usually highly corrosive and will eat your board's traces.

Anyway, I have an ASUS IPIBL-LB with two bulging capacitors (one beside the northbridge, same as DarkInferno above). The machine has been spontaneously restarting at random times, sometimes freezing or restarting more than once before even loading Windows, giving weird pulsating lines across the display before restarting unexpectedly, getting progressively worse. Judging by what I've read here, I'm guessing the bad capacitors are to blame.

You bet.
Of course, you should replace all KZG caps, as the rest will likely follow soon.

But since that post was a while back, I see that the recommended replacements for the 6.3V 820uF and the 16V 470uF KZGs are "product not found."

Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but would it work to try these ones below instead? Looks like they're of a different series than recommended above, but I do not know what the difference is.

Can I replace KZG 6.3V 820uF caps with these?

https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=49

And the 16V 470uF KZG with these?

https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=51

Yes, the links to the caps you provided will do the trick.

In general, Rubycon ZLH is not quite as good as KZG on paper, but that won't really matter here. Many of those KZG caps will be sitting on a linear-regulated rail, so ZLH would be more than fine for those. And even for the buck-regulator rails, those ZLH caps will be okay.

I have an ASUS motherboard (P5GC-MX) that had KZG from top to bottom, and I replaced all of the non-CPU caps with Rubycon ZLH. Turned out 100% rock stable. So yours should work fine too. ASUS really only uses KZG everywhere simply because it was probably cheaper to go with one brand and one series and choose different caps for the different spots on the board. In reality, there's absolutely no need to go with ultra-low ESR caps everywhere. So that's why the Rubycon ZLH will work.

(ps., for good measure I am going to replace the old power supply too.)

Or you could try recapping that too (if it has bad caps, that is). Better yet, I suggest you post some pictures of its internals in the PSU forums, so we can see what it looks like inside. If your replacement PSU is no better and uses the same low-end caps, there's no point in replacing the original PSU.

[BabyBenicia]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

It's not *that* involved (depending on how much you value your time), but for a novice, it is possible to take 2-3 hours the first time.

Hahaa! Yeah, I'm prepared for it to take me even longer than that, probably, but it's fine.
Before even touching this motherboard I'm going to get a junk motherboard and practice until it all feels familiar enough.

Thanks so much for confirming that the caps I asked about will be fine, and for the advice re: tools and supplies. I've been compiling a list of stuff to get, based on the recommendations & tutorials on this site. I really appreciate the TONS of helpful information.

Better yet, I suggest you post some pictures of its internals in the PSU forums, so we can see what it looks like inside. If your replacement PSU is no better and uses the same low-end caps, there's no point in replacing the original PSU.

Oy! Did I mention that I am new? Jeez. I hadn't even looked inside the PSU. I just decided to replace it because it's 10 years old, and when I came to the conclusion that my problem was hardware-based and searched for answers, other than "you may need to replace the motherboard," and "look for bad caps," a common suggestion was "replace the PSU." So since I have two goals here -- to fix the computer, and to gain experience with replacing components inside the case, I figured I'd just go ahead and replace the old PSU, since it's easy and not too expensive. Well, when I opened it up just now (first time doing this) and saw all that white paste in there, I didn't know it was normal and thought it was massive cap leakage. But, as you can see there IS a leaking cap in there.

I will check out the PSU forums and post pics of this along with info about the replacement I ordered, and see what I can learn.

Thank you for all of the help!!!

[momaka]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

Before even touching this motherboard I'm going to get a junk motherboard and practice until it all feels familiar enough.

Good idea.
Probably best to start with the very small caps, as they will be easier to remove. That should give you an idea of what the job will be about. Then you can move to caps next to the RAM slots, as those are a bit harder but still not that hard. The hardest caps to remove are around the CPU - if you can take out those, you probably won't have any problems with your motherboard. I did the caps near the RAM slots on my ASUS P5GC-MX with just a 30 Watt soldering iron, but it wasn't too easy (even though I've been doing recaps for a while). With my 75W soldering station, however, it's all easy. So a more powerful soldering iron helps and also if it's of decent quality. IIRC, some of the 40-60 Watt soldering irons at Home Depot are not bad. Just *AVOID* the soldering guns (the one that appear to have a U-shaped wire instead of a normal tip).

And here is the method I use to pull caps:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...7&postcount=23

The only exception to that is really small caps with less than 3 mm lead spacing - for those, you can try heating both leads at the same time and pulling the cap out straight.

I will check out the PSU forums and post pics of this along with info about the replacement I ordered, and see what I can learn.

Good idea.
No point in using the new PSU if it's worse than the original.

That said, the picture of the PSU you posted appears to be a BESTEC. There is one particular model of BESTEC to avoid; the ATX250-12E. This model is known to go high on the 5VSB rail (purple wire) and kill motherboards. If you have BESTEC with that model number, STOP USING THE PC NOW AND UPLUGG IT FROM THE WALL.

That said, the following BESTEC modes are NOT affected:
ATX250-12Z
ATX300-12E
ATX300-12Z

Of course if your new PSU turns out to be a complete "gutless wonder" (a common expression we use on the PSU forums for very low-end cheap PSUs), even the known bad Bestec ATX250-12E could be a better option once *fully* recapped. (In fact, the Bestec ATX250-12E is actually a very decent power supply, but it just has one flaw with the 5VSB circuit, which can be remedied by a complete recap and will keep the PSU good for at least 5-10 years, depending on the quality of the replacement caps).

[BabyBenicia]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

Thank you for all of this.

I am going to see about those power supply suggestions.

Er, this is the one I ordered. Is it crap?

https://www.outletpc.com/9498r521-300w-hp-a6400f.html


Thanks!

[momaka]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

Ouch. Yeah, it might be, but I hope not. Replace Power is not exactly a brand I've heard of before. Let's hope they are taking decent PSUs and relabeling them. But definitely post pics, if possible without voiding the warranty of course (could try to carefully peel any stickers while heating with a hair dryer.) Or try to take a picture through the vents, at least.

Also, for $36, it really better be somewhat decent. Otherwise that's quite pricey if it turns out to be a gutless PSU. If it feels lighter than your Bestec and has thinner and shorter wires, it probably is low-end PSU.

[BabyBenicia]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

So, I am certain enough that the new PSU is worse than the original that I am not even going to open it up and post pics on the power supply forums. It is lighter weight than my Bestec (which is an ATX 250-12Z, by the way), and I just generally have a bad feeling about having impulsively clicked and purchased whatever seemed compatible without doing the research. Impatient rookie stuff.
Anyway, working on trying to send it back for a refund. (The site does not like to RMA undamaged goods, so we'll see. Lesson hopefully learned.)
Maybe this weekend I will take apart the ATX 250 & post better pics on the PSU forums to get recommendations on fix vs. replace.
Generally speaking, would you say it is more difficult to recap a motherboard or a PSU? I could easily get in over my head. But am also interested in taking on the challenge of fixing both, if worthwhile and if the learning curve is not too steep.
Thanks again for all of the info and advice. It's much appreciated.

[momaka]

Re: Hp asus ipibl-lb

It is lighter weight than my Bestec (which is an ATX 250-12Z, by the way)
...
Maybe this weekend I will take apart the ATX 250 & post better pics on the PSU forums to get recommendations on fix vs. replace.

Sounds good.
The Bestec ATX250-12Z is a pretty decent power supply once recapped. I actually have one myself. It *will* do all its ratings on the label, unlike many cheap low-end PSUs.

Generally speaking, would you say it is more difficult to recap a motherboard or a PSU?

Oh, most power supplies are at least 10x *easier*, usually because they use a single-layer board. The only real challenge with them is that the components are a little crammed, so you have to wiggle things out more slowly and patiently. And some power supplies also tend to have a tan glue that goes conductive over time. For these, we recommend removing as much of the glue as possible, and that can be a pain in the butt. Luckily your particular Bestec does *not* use that glue - or so it appears from the picture you posted above. Mine, though technically the same model as yours, had quite a bit of the glue just about everywhere, and it took some effort to get it reasonably cleaned.

Anyway, working on trying to send it back for a refund. (The site does not like to RMA undamaged goods, so we'll see. Lesson hopefully learned.)

Well, we could change the part about undamaged easily. - That is, without physically damaging or opening the PSU. Many cheap PSUs don't have very good protection circuits. Combined with their thin wires, all you really have to do is stick a paper clip or thick wire in one of the connectors (preferably on a 12V rail / yellow wire) and watch it either burn its wires out or blow a rectifier / primary transistor.

So, I am certain enough that the new PSU is worse than the original that I am not even going to open it up and post pics on the power supply forums.

Well, if the RMA doesn't work, please do open it and post pictures. If anything, it would be a good lesson on what to look out for. And for those of us "PSU freaks", we absolutely love poking fun at cheap PSUs. There's actually a whole thread dedicated to that here:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8490