I have a syncmaster 203B, will this testing method work on it? I have been troubleshooting and trying to repair this monitor with no luck. I have replaced all caps except for "big boy" but still can't get it to work. I don't have any board to interchange with either.
All I can get it to do is the Dimly lit picture. When I got my hands on the monitor, it would not power on at all, just blinking led. After replacing the blown caps, and the ones that showed no visible damage, the monitor will "power up" but the picture is BARELY visible.
I'm not the most knowledgable about fixing monitors/electronics however you can try replacing the big cap. On my monitor the front led was flashing really fast and would get brighter and less brighter which I thought was a power supply issue ie not enough power being dished out. Our mains voltage is 230vac in the uk and when i measured the big cap it was 160v, however when I replaced the big cap the voltage was sitting at a stable 312v and the screen was working. Your big cap could be on its last legs and thats why you can only see a dim picture. Saying that though are the backlights working on the monitor?
I'm sure others will reply on here and guide you in the right direction. I did replace all of the caps PlainBill asked me to which in total was 12. My monitor is still working great.
Thanks for your reply Daniel...I have replaced all of the caps on the board except for the "big boy" and only get the dim picture. I performed the voltage check on the board as described earlier in this post and the voltages are normal: The big cap is running 165v (us) and the smaller ones are steady at 13v. I also checked the fuse on the board, and it is good. I didn't check output voltage to the ccfl's, is there a certain way I should do this, anyone?
Thanks for your reply Daniel...I have replaced all of the caps on the board except for the "big boy" and only get the dim picture. I performed the voltage check on the board as described earlier in this post and the voltages are normal: The big cap is running 165v (us) and the smaller ones are steady at 13v. I also checked the fuse on the board, and it is good. I didn't check output voltage to the ccfl's, is there a certain way I should do this, anyone?
Don't check the voltage to the CCFLs unless you have a DMM capable of handling 1000 Volts at 100 Khz.
This is a strange problem. If the monitor is acting normally EXCEPT the display is very dim (but the CCFLs are producing light, it isn't necessary to use a bright light), try adjusting the brightness (it might be easier in a dark room).
If you can only see anything on the monitor if you use a light source external to the monitor there is a problem with the inverter.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Thanks PlainBill, I'm glad I haven't tried checking them yet. I have a black-light system in my computer case; I have heard that you can use them to check ccfl's. I don't want to blow up my lights, but I would like to rule out whether it is the bulbs or the inverter board.
Originally posted by PlainBill
If you can only see anything on the monitor if you use a light source external to the monitor there is a problem with the inverter.
PlainBill
The above is true, if I turn off all the lights in the room at night I cannot see anything on the screen. But if I turn on the light, and look at the screen at an angle I can see the pictures on the screen.
Can I take the inverter from my black-light system and hook it to the ccfl's in the monitor to see if they light up? If so; how do I know which way to plug them in?
Thanks PlainBill, I'm glad I haven't tried checking them yet. I have a black-light system in my computer case; I have heard that you can use them to check ccfl's. I don't want to blow up my lights, but I would like to rule out whether it is the bulbs or the inverter board.
The above is true, if I turn off all the lights in the room at night I cannot see anything on the screen. But if I turn on the light, and look at the screen at an angle I can see the pictures on the screen.
Can I take the inverter from my black-light system and hook it to the ccfl's in the monitor to see if they light up? If so; how do I know which way to plug them in?
If you are talking about something similar to a case mod light kit, congratulations, you have reinvented the CCFL test fixture. CCFLs don't have polarity.
Odds are the problem is in the inverter, but your way will quickly prove the CCFLs are good.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
My case mod inverter did not have the right connector to allow the ccfl's to plug into it. I completely disassembled the LCD and visually examined the bulbs, they are noticeably blackened at one end, does this mean they have burned out?
My case mod inverter did not have the right connector to allow the ccfl's to plug into it. I completely disassembled the LCD and visually examined the bulbs, they are noticeably blackened at one end, does this mean they have burned out?
Probably not. Some blackening is normal as the tube ages.
I would suggest attaching a clear picture of the bottom side of the card. This will allow identifying points to test.
Here is a photo of the back of the board. The dark stuff surrounding the solder points is rosin flux from my desoldering braid. I didn't clean it from around the contacts, but I did clean it from the contacts using a q-tip before soldering the new caps into the board.
Here is a photo of the back of the board. The dark stuff surrounding the solder points is rosin flux from my desoldering braid. I didn't clean it from around the contacts, but I did clean it from the contacts using a q-tip before soldering the new caps into the board.
OK, that appears to be a different layout. I can't even see the drivers for the inverter transformers!!
I would like pictures of both top and bottom of the board. And from more directly overhead, if you could.
I see what might be a picofuse just to the right of the ugly green blob. Check that.
I've got the same Problem (resolution not set to optimum/no signalin a Samsung 910TM.
The current going out of the very good looking inverter Board between 1(red) Plus and the other pins are 2; 0V, 3;12,5V, 4;12,5V, 5;12,5V, 6; 7,5V, 7V; 7,5V, 8; 12,5V, 9V.
I am not sure which pin 5 and 6 you guys are talking of and I can't find it in the respective part of the post. Can anyone tel me if the pins are suposed to be the ones on the SE7888/SE7888 Chips?
Sorry for asking such a dumb qustion but how do i open the case of the samsung 913n as i just want to fix the screen not optimised fault rather that throw it in the thrash.
I have the equipment but have not done any electronic repairs for a long time!
Take the stand off the back with the four screws. Then gently seperate the silver from square from the black casing - there are various internal plastic clips just holding it and they break really easily but don't affect it as it screws on anyway.. You then have a metal cast behind the black case so remove the black case. Then remove the cast and theres a few screws holding the silver square front on. I cannot fully remember to be honest but its goes something like the above. However just been a little careful when sperating the square silver front from the black back case because it marks really easily.
You should be able to see how it all fits together. Theres not alot to this screen. My screen is still working great, the "Big Boy" is doing a great job :P
After absorbing all the info regarding my 913N monitor which has exactly the same symptom described in this forum I set about replacing all the 12 capacitors and begin the test with hope that it is fixed. Afraid no joy !!!
This is what was performed after the replacement.
1. Signal cable disconnected. Monitor power switch on.
2. Monitor display “Check Signal Cable” box slowly float across the screen.
3. Press all other buttons individually and held for more than10 sec. No change.
4. Plug in First signal cable (Fsc) which is connected to computer-(Unplug and switch off). Screen went blank.
5. Green “ON/OFF” light went off.
6. Press “MENU” (No 1 =Left to right) button, Green light comes on – Screen livened up with message “Test OK” come on for a few second then Green light went off & went blank.
7. Unplug Fsc from computer (Power disconnected and switched off), Screen still blank, Green light off. Press “ Menu” button AGAIN – Screen livened up with message “Test OK” as Step 6 above.
8. Unplug Fsc from monitor, screen come back and revert to condition (1) above.
9. Replace Fsc with a Second signal cable (Ssc).
10. Plug one end into the monitor. Screen continue to display “Check Signal Cable” box float across the screen. (Why did it perform differently to Fsc step 7 above?)
11. Plug Ssc into computer (Still switched off). Screen went blank immediately. Green light blink intermittently even left for a long time. Why ?
12. Press “MENU” button, Green light comes on – Screen livened up with message “Test OK” come on for a few second then Green light went off & went blank. The same as it did with Fsc.
13. Another strange happening, when pressed together MENU (Button 1) and Button 2. The screen went blank and the Green light comes back after a few second.
14. If I am lucky I can get a flash of a white line about a quarter way from the bottom for one or two sec. Pressing any other button will not bring back the condition of Item 2. Only the ON/OFF will bring it back,
Not sure if this forum can be revived with new ideas.
Can anyone suggest what is wrong Is it the video control card that is buggered or there is still something wrong within the power supply?
After absorbing all the info regarding my 913N monitor which has exactly the same symptom described in this forum I set about replacing all the 12 capacitors and begin the test with hope that it is fixed. Afraid no joy !!!
This is what was performed after the replacement.
1. Signal cable disconnected. Monitor power switch on.
2. Monitor display “Check Signal Cable” box slowly float across the screen.
3. Press all other buttons individually and held for more than10 sec. No change.
4. Plug in First signal cable (Fsc) which is connected to computer-(Unplug and switch off). Screen went blank.
5. Green “ON/OFF” light went off.
6. Press “MENU” (No 1 =Left to right) button, Green light comes on – Screen livened up with message “Test OK” come on for a few second then Green light went off & went blank.
7. Unplug Fsc from computer (Power disconnected and switched off), Screen still blank, Green light off. Press “ Menu” button AGAIN – Screen livened up with message “Test OK” as Step 6 above.
8. Unplug Fsc from monitor, screen come back and revert to condition (1) above.
9. Replace Fsc with a Second signal cable (Ssc).
10. Plug one end into the monitor. Screen continue to display “Check Signal Cable” box float across the screen. (Why did it perform differently to Fsc step 7 above?)
11. Plug Ssc into computer (Still switched off). Screen went blank immediately. Green light blink intermittently even left for a long time. Why ?
12. Press “MENU” button, Green light comes on – Screen livened up with message “Test OK” come on for a few second then Green light went off & went blank. The same as it did with Fsc.
13. Another strange happening, when pressed together MENU (Button 1) and Button 2. The screen went blank and the Green light comes back after a few second.
14. If I am lucky I can get a flash of a white line about a quarter way from the bottom for one or two sec. Pressing any other button will not bring back the condition of Item 2. Only the ON/OFF will bring it back,
Not sure if this forum can be revived with new ideas.
Can anyone suggest what is wrong Is it the video control card that is buggered or there is still something wrong within the power supply?
1.- What did you use as replacements. Flashing green may indicate a PSU problem.
2.- Post good size/quality pictures of both PSU/INV and Video/Signal boards
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
How do I post the pic. I got the pics but when trying to insert the image I only have a big one (last image) displayed on the screen not all three.
Beside, the submit button is no where to be seen.
How do I post the pic. I got the pics but when trying to insert the image I only have a big one (last image) displayed on the screen not all three.
Beside, the submit button is no where to be seen.
1.- What did you use as replacements. Flashing green may indicate a PSU problem.
2.- Post good size/quality pictures of both PSU/INV and Video/Signal boards
Capacitor replace with matching volt, capacitance, temperature electrolytic typeof different brand. Polarity also checked.
Pics attached.
Flashing light only happen when video signal cable is plug (one cable cause it but another cable don't, even when one end is disconnected from PC) as described.
Pic attached.
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