Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

[Gammaray]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

No problem,
The good thing about Badcaps is we're all in this together for a common goal,
To Fix it!
You can have ccflwarehouse build you complete assemblies, but it really gets expensive.
If you set up a work table with lots of room, and are careful replacing individual CCFLs is not that difficult. Just think about 3 steps ahead of what your doing.

Just received the parts to change out the CCFL's. Getting ready to assemble it together. I do have one question: Do I connect both panels with the same wire color? In other words I guess what I am trying to say is that I am using one of the panels that has not been taken apart yet, and it appears on the stripped down panel that the blue and pink wire are opposite running through the silicone tabs. I would guess that both panels connect the pink wire on one side to the white wire on the other, and the blue wire runs through to the black wire. One last question: I had purchased the universal end caps and they are just a single silicone L shaped plug. Do I substitute the oem ones for these?

Thanks again!

Emile

[alexanna]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Just received the parts to change out the CCFL's. Getting ready to assemble it together. I do have one question: Do I connect both panels with the same wire color? In other words I guess what I am trying to say is that I am using one of the panels that has not been taken apart yet, and it appears on the stripped down panel that the blue and pink wire are opposite running through the silicone tabs. I would guess that both panels connect the pink wire on one side to the white wire on the other, and the blue wire runs through to the black wire. One last question: I had purchased the universal end caps and they are just a single silicone L shaped plug. Do I substitute the oem ones for these?

Thanks again!

Emile

Without seeing exactly what you're working with, it's hard for me to answer your question about the wiring. But this is what I think you are asking.
The CCFLs will have 2 wires attached to them, one Hot wire that's usually either pink or blue. These are usually thicker wires.
On the other end there's the return wire, these are usually either white or black and are the thinner wires.
Be very careful as you remove the original silicone end cap, and rewire them like you take them apart.
If you're unable to reuse the original end caps, use the universal caps you ordered.

[Gammaray]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Without seeing exactly what you're working with, it's hard for me to answer your question about the wiring. But this is what I think you are asking.
The CCFLs will have 2 wires attached to them, one Hot wire that's usually either pink or blue. These are usually thicker wires.
On the other end there's the return wire, these are usually either white or black and are the thinner wires.
Be very careful as you remove the original silicone end cap, and rewire them like you take them apart.
If you're unable to reuse the original end caps, use the universal caps you ordered.

OK- It appears that the CCFL lamps have one end that is round, and the other end seems to be flat on the glass ends. Does it matter which end solders to the thicker hot wires?

Also, I am trying to reuse the oem end caps, but they have split a little on the big hole side. Can I still use them? The universal ones that were shipped are just a silicone L-shaped sleeve, with one end being thicker. I presume that the thicker ends slide over the heat-shrink and over the glass of the CCFL's. All I am trying to do is copy the other panel with the CCFL's as it has not been taken apart!

This has been a little tedious as the oem end caps are giving me a bit of a problem for fitting it all together!

Emile

[alexanna]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I have never seen a round and flat end on a CCFL tube, Are you possibly taking about the connector that plugs into the inverter?
On the CCFL tube itself it does not matter on which end you solder the thick or thin wires.
The silicone end caps serve two purposes the help insulate the wiring so the electricity will travel through the CCFL tube, rather than find a alternate path back to its source.And to the help hold the bulbs in the CCFL channel.
If there is a break anywhere in the insulation on the CCFL wiring there is a good chance the electricity will find it, and take the easier way back.And you will have a 2 second to black problem again.

[Gammaray]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hello again and thanks to everyone here for the help!!! Sorry I didn't post back sooner, as a lot of things came up, but now have some time to kick back for a little while! Anyhow, I finished assembling the parts back together and my monitor looks great!!!

Emile

[alexanna]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Glad you were able to repair your monitor.
Success stories are always Great to hear.

[Terry Dactil]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thanks folks,
I had a 225BW which was flickering for about 30 seconds when turned on.
It was easily fixed by following the advice given in this forum and replacing the faulty capacitors.

[Ladd]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hey all, just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone posting in this thread! My 225bw also suffered from bad cap syndrome. I had one little extra hitch though, I replaced all the caps except for the large 450V 150uf one and it seemed to fix the blink of death but still I had nothing but a black screen, not 2 seconds to death, just all black all the time. It didn't appear that the big cap was bulging or anything but I figured I replaced all the other caps so I may as well do that one too. After ordering and putting in the new big cap, BAM! Fired right up and is working great! I guess I was the 1 out of the 100 that needed the big one replaced. Just a note to the next people having this problem, I would just order that big one with the rest for the sake of the extra $4 and replace it while you are doing the others. You will save ~$8 in shipping charges, and having to reopen your monitor again if you have to replace it. One thing to note though, I along with the other guy that replaced his big cap, I could only get a replacement with short leads. I just nipped the old leads off up close to the old cap and soldered the short leads to the old caps leads. Works great! Thanks again all!!!

[indiben]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hey I want to order a few capacitors for my samsung 225bw and was wondering if I could get my selection checked just to be sure. They are:

2 x CAP ALUM 820UF 25V 20% RADIAL P11222-ND
2 x CAP ALUM 680UF 25V 20% RADIAL P10277-ND
1 x CAP ALUM 47UF 50V 20% RADIAL P10321-ND
1 x CAP ALUM 330UF 25V 20% RADIAL P10272-ND

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Those should work.

PlainBill

[jdp]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hello everyone. I have been trying to repair my syncmaster 225bw because it is having similar problems to those on this thread, and would really appreciate any advice on what I should do next. It turned on for a second then went black with the power light still a solid on, so I replaced all 6 capacitors as recommended. Here are the ones I replaced:

3x 330uf 25V - Digikey P/N: P10273-ND
2x 820uf 25V - Digikey P/N: P14423-ND
1x 47uf 50V - Digikey P/N: P10321-ND

Can someone verify that these capacitors are good?

After replacing capacitors the problem still remains. The monitor will turn on for 1 second then go black, with the power light solid on. There is a brief noise when this happens, and when I shine a light to the screen I can see my desktop. Using a light to see the screen I turned the brightness down to 10/100, and turned the monitor off and on and it worked, but with a ticking noise at regular intervals (couple times a second). Any ideas on what I should do?

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hello everyone. I have been trying to repair my syncmaster 225bw because it is having similar problems to those on this thread, and would really appreciate any advice on what I should do next. It turned on for a second then went black with the power light still a solid on, so I replaced all 6 capacitors as recommended. Here are the ones I replaced:

3x 330uf 25V - Digikey P/N:
2x 820uf 25V - Digikey P/N: P14423-ND
1x 47uf 50V - Digikey P/N: P10321-ND

Can someone verify that these capacitors are good?

After replacing capacitors the problem still remains. The monitor will turn on for 1 second then go black, with the power light solid on. There is a brief noise when this happens, and when I shine a light to the screen I can see my desktop. Using a light to see the screen I turned the brightness down to 10/100, and turned the monitor off and on and it worked, but with a ticking noise at regular intervals (couple times a second). Any ideas on what I should do?

Those caps should work well. I would have chosen P12386-ND or P12387-ND instead of P10273-ND, but that is not the issue.

I think the key is the fact that reducing the brightness reduced the severity of the problem. The two most likely causes are a break in the insulation on a wire to the CCFLs, or aging CCFLs. The inverter contains a protection circuit which shuts down the CCFLs in the current through any CCFL gets too high. The current rises as a CCFL nears the end of it's life.

PlainBill

[indiben]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hey I want to order a few capacitors for my samsung 225bw and was wondering if I could get my selection checked just to be sure. They are:

2 x CAP ALUM 820UF 25V 20% RADIAL P11222-ND
2 x CAP ALUM 680UF 25V 20% RADIAL P10277-ND
1 x CAP ALUM 47UF 50V 20% RADIAL P10321-ND
1 x CAP ALUM 330UF 25V 20% RADIAL P10272-ND

Just finished my repair, screen appears to work beautifully! A note though, while all my capacitors worked, the 820UF P11222-ND were a bit too large diameter wise, in case anyone was going to use the parts from this list. I ended up having to angle the two capacitors to get them to fit.

[azethoth]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Heya I have the syncmaster 225 BW had it for several years love the monitor. I now have the flicker of death and the monitor does not stay on for long. I have taken several pictures of the board I think you guys are refering to. If you guys can provide any help on identifying specs and which are bad and need replacing let me know. I noticed on the ceramic capacitors there is this putty on them not sure what that is.

anyway any help is appreciated.

[mariushm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

The white putty is just to hold components in place when soldering their "legs" on the other side and generally it's also used to prevent vibration of components.

You'll have to replace at least the capacitors that show even the least amount of swelling - I see three in the third picture and in the fourth picture the one close to the heatsink seems to have a bit of swelling.

Anyway, they're cheap enough and you can't do anything bad by replacing them, so you might as well replace all those capacitors (except the very big one which is unlikely to be faulty), with suitable good capacitors.

What's suitable? You'll have to write down the markings on them, tell us what it says on them.
It may say the same thing other people in this thread mentioned already so if those people got something recommended, you can get what was recommended to them.
But it can't hurt to say here anyway just to be sure.

Now this doesn't mean this is a 100% fix - your monitor could have other issues as well - but those capacitors are obviously dying or dead already so replacing them is a sure thing.

[azethoth]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

The white putty is just to hold components in place when soldering their "legs" on the other side and generally it's also used to prevent vibration of components.

You'll have to replace at least the capacitors that show even the least amount of swelling - I see three in the third picture and in the fourth picture the one close to the heatsink seems to have a bit of swelling.

Anyway, they're cheap enough and you can't do anything bad by replacing them, so you might as well replace all those capacitors (except the very big one which is unlikely to be faulty), with suitable good capacitors.

What's suitable? You'll have to write down the markings on them, tell us what it says on them.
It may say the same thing other people in this thread mentioned already so if those people got something recommended, you can get what was recommended to them.
But it can't hurt to say here anyway just to be sure.

Now this doesn't mean this is a 100% fix - your monitor could have other issues as well - but those capacitors are obviously dying or dead already so replacing them is a sure thing.

thanks for the reply.
from the edge of the board to the silver heat sink they are as follows.

330 microferits 25v C640 GL 105 celsius
board label C112
820 microferits 25v c642 GL 105 celsius
board label c111
820 micro ferits 25v c642 GL 105 celsius
Board label c110
the 2 in the middle are 680 micro ferits 25v 150 degrees celsius C640
these on the board are labled as c301 and c302

the odd black on near the 3 in line says 125 celsius VW
board label L101

there is one other capacitor next to thebottom silver heat sink. board label c107
47 micro ferits 50v GL 105 celsius c642

I suck as spelling plus its 3 am so Im tired.

thanks for any and all help.
I do work at radio shack so I may be able to get them there with my discount. also whats the best way to remove them I do have a soldering Iron and solder. Do I need a solder sucker(for lack of a better word)

if you need any other info Ill respond in the morning.
thanks and have a good night

[mariushm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

First the small and short answers.

The capacitors available at Radioshack may not be good enough - this part is the power supply and it's sensitive to the quality of the capacitors.

I don't think you really need solder sucker or copper braid to suck the solder - sometimes I just grab the capacitor from the other side with one hand and slowly and carefully wiggle it while heating the solder on the other side. Not sure how smart this is but nothing bad happened when I did it like this.

"The odd black on near the 3 in line says 125 celsius VW board label L101" - this is not a capacitor, the capacitors have labels starting with C. I don't know the exact English word but L means a sort of coil, inductor, choke... I may be wrong about the exact naming. Anyway, you won't have to change it.

Now for what capacitors you need to get... you know the brand is CapXon (it's on the capacitors) and the GL tells you the series of capacitors. So you look up on the Internet for the datasheet of that series and you'd find this:



From this datasheet, you're interested in the RIPPLE value and the IMPEDANCE value. You will need to get replacement capacitors with a ripple value equal or higher than the original capacitors and an impedance value equal or lower.

I'll give you as the example the values for the 330uF 25v.

On page 2 of the pdf, you see that for 330uF 25v there are two dimensions available, 8x15 mm and 10x12.5 mm - (diameter x height)

On page 3 of the pdf, you see on the 25v column, two ripple values: 740 and 720. So if your capacitor is 8x15, the ripple has to be equal or better than 740, if it's 10x12.5 then it has to be equal or better than 720.

On page 4 of the pdf, you get the impedance chart. So for 330uF 25v, you need to go equal or lower than 0.085 ohm, respectively 0.082 ohm

So your 330uF 25v capacitor is one of these two:

1. 8x15mm , 740mA ripple, 0.085 ohm impedance
2. 10x12.5 mm, 720mA ripple, 0.082 ohm impedance

So now you can go on a site like digikey.com and enter the uF value, the voltage and maybe the diameter your capacitor needs to be, then filter out the results.

Here's the capacitors page: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...dll?Cat=131081

You need to select one column at a time and click Apply and repeat the process. Pick 330uF, 25v, all ranges with 105C or higher temperature (no sense saving a few cents and get shorter life), select the "Radial" type, "Through hole", when you're happy with the low number of results reported click on "View page" button below. Now on the pages you get, look at the ripple and impedance columns, then if it's on stock and if you can buy low quantities.

...and for this 330uF 25v I found these which would work as replacement:

10x12.5 : P12386-ND Panasonic FM 330uF 25V 1290mA 0.038 Ohm 0.394" Dia (10.00mm) 0.492" (12.50mm)

10x12.5: 565-1675-ND KZE United Chemi-Con 1030mA 0.053 ohm

8x15: P12387-ND Panasonic FM 1240mA 0.041 Ohm 0.315" Dia (8.00mm) 0.591" (15.00mm)

and these are just from the top half of the first page of results, out of about four pages I had.

So you should get by now the process. Pick a few for your other values and report back so we can check if what you picked is good.

As brands go, it's recommended you choose Panasonic, Nichicon, United Chemi Con... I like Rubycon as well... they're quality brands.


Now of course, if you have room on the board and height, you could go with a new capacitor that's wider or taller, you just need to have >= ripple and <= impedance values and the capacitor needs to fit in the room you have there. Just the uF value needs to be the same and voltage can be the same or higher.

[ixolib]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Wonderful thread here. Spent the last 2 nights digesting it all. I have a Samsung 225BW that started to behave badly and my research lead me here. I took it apart last night to discover all those dreaded leaking caps! I've made a list of the capacitors on my board to be replaced. (all of them besides the big one) I've also gone to Digikey and believe I have picked the correct parts out. I would appreciate any input on this. If I've totally screwed up and picked the wrong stuff feel free to point, laugh, and make jest! I can take it.


Samsung 225BW REV0.2

Bad CapXon Capacitors List

2x 820 uF 25v (20mm tall, tallest on board, locations C110 and C111)
3x 330 uF 25v (locations C112, C304 and C305)
1x 47 uF 50v (location C107)


Replacement Panasonic Capacitors from Digikey
x2 P14423-ND
x3 P13123-ND
x1 P10321-ND

Thanks!

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Wonderful thread here. Spent the last 2 nights digesting it all. I have a Samsung 225BW that started to behave badly and my research lead me here. I took it apart last night to discover all those dreaded leaking caps! I've made a list of the capacitors on my board to be replaced. (all of them besides the big one) I've also gone to Digikey and believe I have picked the correct parts out. I would appreciate any input on this. If I've totally screwed up and picked the wrong stuff feel free to point, laugh, and make jest! I can take it.


Samsung 225BW REV0.2

Bad CapXon Capacitors List

2x 820 uF 25v (20mm tall, tallest on board, locations C110 and C111)
3x 330 uF 25v (locations C112, C304 and C305)
1x 47 uF 50v (location C107)


Replacement Panasonic Capacitors from Digikey
x2 P14423-ND
x3 P13123-ND
x1 P10321-ND

Thanks!

For the x3 330uF, 25V use P12387-ND. The rest are fine.

PlainBill

[ixolib]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Just wanted to give a heads up on my repair. New caps arrived yesterday. I was originally going to have a friend do the soldering for me, but decided I would give it a shot even though I haven't soldered anything other than plumbing in years. Took the time to watch some tutorials and bought the items I needed. It's a nice rainy day due to Tropical Storm Lee, so I took my time, had a beer and knocked it out. Proud to say, everything is working like new! Thanks again for putting together and maintaining such a great resource as this forum. Cheers!